- 4,288
- 1,773
- 113
- Location
- Edmond, Oklahoma
Split the difference and do 175
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Buy new! Harmonic balancer is NOT something you want to buy used and take a chance it is as bad or worse than your original balancer. Unless you are going to get rid of your vehicle and just need to keep it running until sold--- buy new!Old thread but still relevant (like most here).
Today i saw that crank pulley on my ´86 M1009 is wobbling ca 1.5mm. So time to change it and when already there, also harmonic balancer. 63k miles and sure it looks original.
Is this GM OEM kosher?
I am in Europe, so i looked rockauto - they ship here. If there is better place, let me know.
About pulley - where find new? Or should i look used one? Are they same on 6.2 Chevy Vans?
.Lots of AC Delco is made in China. Just saying..
The dampers I have bought from O'Reilly's are made in Australia.
Nothing special about the steel parts, the key component is the rubber ring and its bond to the steel.
yes, this GM OEM is ACDelco, balancer will be new of course.
While i agree, I say no shame; just business. As I mentioned earlier, AC Delco parts made in China are manufactured with higher quality control standards and hence, they are demonstrably better quality then most run-of-the-mill Chinese parts, as per my own personal experience..
Dang-it-all...
Shame that AC Delco parts are being made in china.
Maybe eventually people can just buy their Chevrolet there and have it shipped over on a boat.
One of these days we are going to get irritated with some foreign country.
Guys are going to walk over to the armory to draw supplies - and be told - Oh, those munitions were made in (insert NOT HERE).
Or how about the chips - the non classified stuff - in a missile isn't made here and we can't go kick butt because we have no supplies...
Well, what brand harmonic balancer you recommend then?Not from RockAuto. They sell a lot of NOS. When it comes to rubber parts, that is NOT what you want. Age matters.
Just get a G.M. brand balancer from rock auto. I bought one and they are great. There is no way anyone can state Rock Auto sells inferior parts. Show me the proof and quit scaremongering.Well, what brand harmonic balancer you recommend then?
If youy want to buy the right tools to replace the balancer and you can lay out the cash Gearwrench Harmonic Balancer installer #36790D $74 dollars at Amazon Gearwrench Puller #41600 $51 dollars at Amazon. G.M. ACDelco Bolt #14022672 $10.56 at Amazon.thanks guys, Delco it is then.
There is Dorman too, in rockauto, but i had pretty bad memories about their steering pumps and alternators some times ago.
Front seal change is good hint - mine is OK but sure, when we are there, why not to do that too.
Fluiddampr is probably overkill for my truck use.
I dont see any shake on engine or other anomalies but when i must change wobbly crank pulley, it is wise to do everything together.
Just get a G.M. brand balancer from rock auto. I bought one and they are great. There is no way anyone can state Rock Auto sells inferior parts. Show me the proof and quit scaremongering.
If youy want to buy the right tools to replace the balancer and you can lay out the cash Gearwrench Harmonic Balancer installer #36790D $74 dollars at Amazon Gearwrench Puller #41600 $51 dollars at Amazon. G.M. ACDelco Bolt #14022672 $10.56 at Amazon.
For the damper, I recently put Dayco on my K1500 6.5 and one on my friends M1008. I made my own puller and installer. Do you have a welding machine there? It's not too expensive and since you want to do it right, just change it. Get a new crank pulley to go with it, it has a large rubber part in it as well. You'll know for sure the damper isn't going to destroy your crank.
You'll need a long M16x1.5 bolt, I believe mine was 100mm long, I'd go a bit longer next time and 2 nuts. The thread is very important. This is fine thread, you do not want to use the wrong thread and strip the thread from the crank!. Use a fairly thick flat piece of steel and drill 3 holes. Center hole to fit the M16 bolt through and 2 10mm holes to attach it to the damper. Weld one of the M16 bolts on-top of the center hole (lock it in place with the bolt and remaining nut). You are now ready to pull the old damper off. Take the crank bolt out, remove the washer and put the crank bolt back in all the way. Mount the puller and start turning the M16 bolt until the balancer pops off. Remove the crank bolt. Btw, you might want to chamber the tip of the M16 bolt a bit.
For the installer, I re-used the M16 bolt. Get the balancer going by hand. Now put the nut on the M16 bolt all the way and slide the big washer on. Thread the installer bolt in as far is it will go. Now start turning the nut. You might want to put some lubricant between the bolt and washer to limit rotational force, we want it to push only. I used a bearing. My installer bolt did not bottom out in the crank so the further the damper was on the more I threaded it into to the crank just to make sure I didn't strip the crank thread. The further the damper goes, the tougher it will get. Just keep going till it bottoms out.
Keep these tools in your CUCV specific toolbox.
Oh, find a way to keep the engine from turning over when removing and torquing the crank nut. I used a long piece of angle iron and drilled 2 holes to mount it to the damper.
View attachment 837794 View attachment 837795 View attachment 837796