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Has anyone converted a 6.2 into a turbo charged unit?

TOBASH

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The direction this topic has taken is why there needs to be a separate section for "bubba your truck".
Look, for all you FNG's who maybe just in the last couple months decided to get a hmmwv, a lot of us old timers have been here doing Military vehicles for many years. To Us, our job is to restore these vehicles back to original, so they are for the most part period correct. You will find this on ANY Genre specific forum....I'm sure if you went to the Shelby forum and asked to install a 6.2 diesel you might get a few negative responses from some purests.
For me, I can care less what someone does to there truck, what I don't understand are the folks that spend endless amounts of time, energy and money trying to make something that already exsists, in this case, trying to get a few extra HP from this motor. There are so many cheap "IMO" motors on the market, it's a no brainer. What so many seem to totally forget is the short coming is not so much the motor, it's the 3 speed trans. I get a call a day asking how to get more speed out this truck...simple! Add another gear, I don't I care what motor you have....as long as this trans stays in the truck, your stuck in the slow lane.
As far as power goes....I have right now 9 trucks in my yard/shop, the motors are 6.2,6.5,6.5TD's, the turbo diesel is in a class by itself, but the 6.2 and 6.5's are all over map, I have 6.2's that run like raped apes, a 6.5 GEP thats a dog, another 6.5 that runs like a raped ape, so whatever you have, if it's s dog? You motor is tired...time to rebuild it or replace it.

And I don't see what being from calif has to do with anything....
clearly you have a case of the a**, but bobbed deuces were prototypes for the XM381, do your home work.
RWH, you're absolutely right. BLK HMMWV, I should never have responded to your post , not because you're correct, but because it would only serve to be inflammatory to someone I like and respect.

My apologies to the forum. I am considering removing my reply, not because I am wrong, but because it is politically correct. I find this to be a friendly bulletin board and honestly, this kind of stuff becomes an unnecessary distraction.

This topic has been derailed and I think the mods might want to step in.

ALSO, RWH is a skilled and talented long time member of this forum. I DO NOT ENDORSE ANY DISRESPECT FOR ANY MEMBER OF THIS FORUM, INCLUDING RWH!!!!



RWH, I have found a place that will provide me with a rebuilt 6.5 L turbocharged engine with alternator and power steering and radiator clutch for fan and fuel injection pump; as a drop in unit for $6200. Apparently they have a government contract. What do you think of that price, given I will have to change my power steering anyway because the reservoir has sprung a leak.

Thanks,

T
 
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MaverickH1

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RWH, you're absolutely right. BLK HMMWV, I should never have responded to your post , not because you're correct, but because it would only serve to be inflammatory to someone I like and respect.

My apologies to the forum. I am considering removing my reply, not because I am wrong, but because it is politically correct. I find this to be a friendly bulletin board and honestly, this kind of stuff becomes an unnecessary distraction.

This topic has been derailed and I think the mods might want to step in.

ALSO, RWH is a skilled and talented long time member of this forum. I DO NOT ENDORSE ANY DISRESPECT FOR ANY MEMBER OF THIS FORUM, INCLUDING RWH!!!!



RWH, I have found a place that will provide me with a rebuilt 6.5 L turbocharged engine with alternator and power steering and radiator clutch for fan and fuel injection pump; as a drop in unit for $6200. Apparently they have a government contract. What do you think of that price, given I will have to change my power steering anyway because the reservoir has sprung a leak.

Thanks,

T
To me, that price seems high unless it's a P400. GM block 6.5L turbos seem to go for around $3,000-$4,000 with the 4L80e transmission with it.
 

911joeblow

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Turbo mounted where the muffler is.. nothing changes under the hood.. Cake walk.
You would have to set up a drain tank and scavenge pump to take the drain oil back to the engine being low mounted like that. The turbo response time would go down with the long runs of pipe to and from the turbo. There would also be a lot of pressure drop with the volume added by the long pressure discharge pipe. Plus you would have a lot of fabrication to get the intake down to it. Not impossible but not sure it is worth it?
 

racing4funn

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You would have to set up a drain tank and scavenge pump to take the drain oil back to the engine being low mounted like that. The turbo response time would go down with the long runs of pipe to and from the turbo. There would also be a lot of pressure drop with the volume added by the long pressure discharge pipe. Plus you would have a lot of fabrication to get the intake down to it. Not impossible but not sure it is worth it?
I have not done it.. Got to be way easier than all this mess discussed in this thread. Ive been in some sick 800hp+ streetcars with rear turbo setups. Before that I wasnt on board with the idea.

People thinking about turbos. You got to have more fuel or the turbo will be of little to no help. On the cheap you might be good with the pump turned up as much as possible and a swap to hotter injectors. Getting into replacing the high pressure pump and then u'd probably need a strong lift pump = not worth the effort.. be easier and cheaper to do a LS swap :-(
 
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linhster

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I have not done it.. Got to be way easier than all this mess discussed in this thread. Ive been in some sick 800hp+ streetcars with rear turbo setups. Before that I wasnt on board with the idea.

People thinking about turbos. You got to have more fuel or the turbo will be of little to no help. On the cheap you might be good with the pump turned up as much as possible and a swap to hotter injectors. Getting into replacing the high pressure pump and then u'd probably need a strong lift pump = not worth the effort.. be easier and cheaper to do a LS swap :-(
You must have a lot of experience with diesel motors, or are these references based on gasoline/nitrous/alcohol engine? If it's that easy and cost effective, I think AM General would have implemented it for the military, don't you think?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

racing4funn

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You must have a lot of experience with diesel motors, or are these references based on gasoline/nitrous/alcohol engine? If it's that easy and cost effective, I think AM General would have implemented it for the military, don't you think?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ive fiddle with anything that has an explosive chamber, moves fast and could be dangerous. Done my feel of racing and playing with diesel tow rigs til they get to wild and cant tow a trailer anymore. But im getting slower in my old age. I got the skills to fab whatever I need and and a rear turbo is what i will do if time and need arise
 

rchalmers3

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Wow! This has been an awesome thread to read! My hats off to you guys, especially the OP, for bringing back the civility to the discussion.

My .02: I'm no engineer. I seem to rarely be able to design and fabricate anything that is as elegant, durable or efficient as what the engineers originally designed and constructed. My creations sometimes have unintended consequences, which reduce the goodness of my efforts. So for those reasons, I prefer to stick with proven, bolt in upgrades that improve the original design without needing too much of my inabilities added. For me it's the best way to win.

Rick
 

doghead

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I don't think a turbo under an all wheel drive, off road vehicle is a great idea.

Especially if there is a chance it could get submerged ever.
 

TOBASH

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Turbo mounted where the muffler is.. nothing changes under the hood.. Cake walk.
I don't think a turbo under an all wheel drive, off road vehicle is a great idea.

Especially if there is a chance it could get submerged ever.


Agreed DOGHEAD,

That is more for the gasoline pick-up trucks such a modification was originally designed for. That, and the turbo-lag on a Diesel would be murder.

Best,

T
 

dilvoy

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OK, So fifteen years ago it may have been the thing to add a home brew turbo to the 6.2 in a Humvee, but now with the availability of excellent low mile take out turbo power packs with the four speed trans, NP242 and even the NP2225 transfer cases for six thousand dollars and free shipping, who is going to do it now? The four speed trans makes a vast improvement over the three speed and I would think much more than adding a turbo to the 6.2 and leaving the three speed trans in place. What is the cost of a home made turbo install on the 6.2 if anyone knows and what if anything has anyone done to compensate for the lack of oil squirters for cooling the under side of the pistons? Enquiring mind wants to know?
 

Bocephus

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I do not have knowledge in this area.... but to compare a $6,000 upgrade to something that is probably $500 or less, is not in the same ballpark.

Couple question I have on this, assuming you have everything sealed up, would getting a turbo muddy or underwater actually hurt it? Fully understand that if it did leak, well you would put 5lbs of boosted water in your motor, lol.

Turbo lag makes sense, but would that turbo lag hinder the performance from stock, or would it still be a power upgrade over stock?
 

ryanruck

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I do not have knowledge in this area.... but to compare a $6,000 upgrade to something that is probably $500 or less, is not in the same ballpark.

Couple question I have on this, assuming you have everything sealed up, would getting a turbo muddy or underwater actually hurt it? Fully understand that if it did leak, well you would put 5lbs of boosted water in your motor, lol.

Turbo lag makes sense, but would that turbo lag hinder the performance from stock, or would it still be a power upgrade over stock?
I'm far from an expert on engine building but I do know enough to make me dangerous... :mrgreen:

What doghead was getting at was that the turbo, if it were unusually hot (exhaust gas temps on these trucks can pretty easily get above 1000 degrees under a hard pull), suddenly submerging it in cold water like you might find in a running stream would subject it to rather extreme temperature changes which could potentially crack the turbo housing.

So at this point you're probably wondering, "Well, what about the 6.5T trucks with deep fording kits?" Since the turbos are mounted higher up on those, I'd imagine that theoretically, the lower parts of the engine (and cooling system) being submerged first would draw a lot of that heat away from the hot turbo as they become submerged, making it less stressful on it when it goes under.

This doesn't seem to be an issue with the Corvettes and Mustangs I've seen this type of setup on because they are usually only subjected to water spray from wet roads, not necessarily from full submersion in potentially cold running water. Now, does this mean this type of a setup won't work? Not necessarily... I'd say if you had a pyrometer to keep an eye on turbo inlet and outlet temps and, made sure they were reasonably low before submerging the turbo, it would probably (possibly... maybe... :mrgreen: ) be okay.
 

racing4funn

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Man the turbo knowledge on this page is scary.. no, none of all should do a.diy turbo. Turbo lag? Sure if you dont know what ur doing.

And to answer the who would do this? There is always someone like me. I hava a 6.2l, 4r80e, and the knowledge and ability to make it happen.
 

Bravojmc

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"And to answer the who would do this? There is always someone like me"

or as I say "there's an ass for every saddle"
no pun intended!
 
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dilvoy

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Wow, Only five hundred dollars! That's is amazing. How are you raising the fuel rate, just turning in the fuel screw or having the injector pump modified to some sort of turbo spec by a rebuilder? I'd copy a good home made setup if that was what the parts and pump modification cost.
Is anyone who can do it and test it, thinking of making a kit and maybe charging one thousand or fifteen hundred dollars?
 
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911joeblow

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Wow, Only five hundred dollars! That's is amazing. How are you raising the fuel rate, just turning in the fuel screw or having the injector pump modified to some sort of turbo spec by a rebuilder? I'd copy a good home made setup if that was what the parts and pump modification cost.
Is anyone who can do it and test it, thinking of making a kit and maybe charging one thousand or fifteen hundred dollars?
You can buy a 'universal' Chinese kit on EBAY for $500.....BUT the turbo is wrong and crap, the pipes are wrong, the rest needed to put it in would cost 2X that and it would still be crap. You need a properly matched turbo from a reputable manufacturer. You need proper oil feeds and drains. You need water cooling to make it last. You need an intercooler if you want to be part of the modern world (I know GM did'nt but that is not a good lesson to follow). You need a reliable dual port wastegate. You need a proper Stainless Steel exhaust system with flex pipes and thermal protection for all of it. Lastly you need to re-tune the pump for the added fuel requirements. Most importantly you need somebody with real knowledge to dyno tune all of this to work 100% in all conditions. Anything less and you are better off buying an H2...
 

Bocephus

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No need to get pi$$y, I'm just here to learn. I'm not an engine builder by any means, just a guy who likes to tinker with stuff in my free time.

But to your point, even at $1,500, its no where near close to the $6k you talked about. They still aren't even in the same ballpark.

Here was my thought behind the process, please correct me where I'm wrong. I figure you could use a turbo from a 6.5 liter, from my quick search, you can find those for a few hundred bucks. Scavange pump for the oil, fairly cheap as well. From there you are just plumbing tubing correct?

For fuel, you can increase the fuel delivery like you mentioned above with the screw, right now my Humvee will blow smoke, so that tells me there is room for more air to be delivered to make the ratio correct. Right?

Again, not an engine builder here, just trying to apply simple concepts. If I can add more fuel, it seems adding 5 lbs of boosted air wouldn't be too much for the motor. Maybe I'm way off, and correct me if I am.

No need to be disrespectful, simple discussion.
 
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