Has anyone used electrolysis for rust removal?

[kendelrio]

All-
This trip in from offshore, I'm getting serious about the M37. Long story short, I want to remove a butt load of rust from all of the bolts, fenders and washers I have (pretty much 2 of every one as the ones from the donor truck were saved if possible).

My budget doesn't include 1k for Evaporust nor do I have the time or desire to clean them all by hand. I intend to start the process and while they're "cooking", use that time to attack the frame.

I have the concept, but would really like some input from anyone who has done it regarding mistakes made or anything that'll make the process work better.

Thanks in advance.

 

[G744]

I bought a Harbor freight benchtop bead blaster, and did all the hardware and small parts that would fit. A blaster like that eats a lot of air, so a good-sized compressor is a good investment.

Afterwards, I used rattle can red primer on everything. The finished assemblies were done in the OD overcoat.

A good practice is to buy fine thread taps in every size used in the truck, and chase all the captive nuts everywhere.

Then a Q-tip with anti-sieze in those threads will make reassembly SO much easier. (And repairs down the road).

The larger parts went to a sandblaster. Make sure they know how to do thin bodymetal like the doors without rippling the finish.

Just a hint from someone that has wrestled a lot of these trucks over the years.

DG

 

[Bulldogger]

I've used electrolysis to remove rust from a gas tank and it worked too well! I had leaks everywhere and POR-15 struggled to close them.

Not that this should be taken as a bad thing. In my experience with setting it all up, it works very well. The anode will get cakes with gunk, and periodic cleaning will help with that. It works surprisingly well, really. It's very messy, electrolysis, but works quite well.

Definitely worth considering.

Bulldogger

 

[Tow4]

I used the CLR rust remover. I put a gallon or so of water in a 5 gallon bucket and added the CLR to it. Put you parts in, and in a day or two the rust is gone. If the item has heavy rust, brush it with a brass brush every couple of days and put it back in until it's clean. Vinegar works too. When you are done, put the lid on the bucket and save it. My bucket had been sitting by my shop for years. Every now and then I toss a rusty part in to clean it up.

 

[DaneGer21]

I have, I cleaned the inside on my entire fuel tank on my m35 using this method.

 

[Guyfang]

I used it on a small scale. A friend had all the stuff needed, I provided two parts and some fasteners. Worked very well.

 

[GTUnit]

I have tried evaporust, electrolysis, sandblasting, naval jelly, acetic acid, ect.
I though they all kind of sucked except sand blasting. Evaporust is ok on stuff that has a thin layer of rust.
The electrolysis worked ok but it was a bit of an effort to set up and execute.

If i were you I would find an acid dip shop and take all your stuff there is one big batch. There are shops with hot tanks big enough to dip entire classic cars for full body rust removal. They usually have a final dip tank that applies an E-Coat to all the parts for rust protection.


You can google search for "Auto Restoration" shops or "rust removal". Classic car restoration is deeply involved in rust removal those guys are experts.

This shop in Ball LA can do this for you no sweat:

Automotive Chemical Stripping and E-Coating - Select Motors

We use automotive chemical stripping and E-coating because it is the most thorough method of stripping a car body of rust paint and body fillers

selectmotors.net