Heated fuel tank project, biodiesel, WVO..

[Recovry4x4]

Here's a thought for you Wallew and follow me for a sec since your deuce isn't in the front yard yet. Do the DR thing and remove your spare and install a second tank just like the one on the right. 5 ton tractors and dumps have a similar system with a transfer pump. DR used a crossover tube to keep the tanks equalized. The deuce has an area just begging to be used for storage but I've never seen anyone use it. The 800 series trucks with ISO beds found the spot but use it for storing the removable bed sides. On the back of the deuce where the trailer plug is, lok under and behind that panel. The area between the rails on the bed is wide open all the way to the front. One could fabricate a tray out of angle iron and put it on rollers and tracks and slide it out probably 8 or 10 ft. You could sheet metal it or just attach smaller removeable boxes to it. A door can be fashioned and locked when it's closed. This is perfect, securable, hidden free storage space.

 

[wallew]

PURRFECT! I'm always into 'stealth' anything. Out of sight, out of mind. Now about that extra 100 gals of fuel. Where can I put that?

Anyone got any ideas?? jim

 

[cranetruck]

Installed the filter received from Kenny. Checked it out this morning and there are no leaks.
The check valve can be seen behind and to the right of the filter head, partially obscured by one of the fuel lines.
The particular check valve I use features a 1 inch dia teflon disc, which opens when the pressure exceeds 0.5 psi. Because of its size it doesn't move very far and the opening got clogged by rust particles. This filter should solve the problem.
An alternate solution would be to get a valve with a smaller disc, which should open farther to let debris pass. A direct acting solenoid valve could do the job too.

The opening above across the frame is for the M756 tool box.

 

[cranetruck]

For those of you who follow this thread, I can now report that the addition of one more filter in the line severly limits the fuel flow.
The fuel pressure dropped below 5 psi and the engine wasn't very happy. The system works and since it's only for heating the main fuel tank, it may be acceptable, but I have another solenoid valve coming and will remove the filter and the check valve once and for all.
The solenoid valve will take the place of the filter and the check valve.

 

[cranetruck]

Tested the LED fuel temp gauge this morning. Starting temp was 24F. The engine started after 10 seconds of cranking (kerosene/diesel mix).
After 15 minutes the engine temp was 102F and I switched on the fuel tank heater. The picture below was taken a few minutes later as the fuel temp begins to climb.

After 1/2 hour of heating the fuel, it's at 46F and the engine temp is 152F.

Engine rpm is 1,000 and the winter radiator cover is on and closed.

The "Fuel Flow" warning light is on due to low fuel pressure.

 

[Recovry4x4]

So Bjorn, it appears that it's going to take a considerable amount of time to get the fuel warm enough, right? I wonder what the heat loss is trying to heat all that fuel in a steel tank exposed to 24 degree air? Maybe you can get a hood blanket on Ebay from an M151, CUCV or whatever and sew up a blanket for that tank in the winter? Guessing I need to box up this coolant heater and get it up there for your project!

 

[cranetruck]

Switched to biodiesel after 45 minutes of heating.

 

[cranetruck]

Running on biodiesel. Ambient about 26F.

 

[mangus580]

So from the looks of it so far, the system cant sustain WVO at the proper temp?

 

[wallew]

Bjorn,
I gotta tell you I JUST LOVE your clock. Where did you find that? Is it hooked into the trucks electronics? And no offense, but your truck is begining to LOOK like it's wiring belongs in an airplane instead of a truck. WAY KEWL!

 

[cranetruck]

Mike: The heating system was never intended for straight veggie oil, which would require heated filter(s) and a operating temp for the fuel of 180-200 F.
My system is stricktly for biodiesel, which will work fine at temps above 35F or so. I cut the heater off at about 100F.

Jim: The clock is a Russian "tank clock". Check ebay, I paid about $15 for mine. It's a wind-up and runs 5 days. It's very accurate like a chronometer and easy to set if you need to synchronize clocks.

 

[cranetruck]

Just noticed your post above about a suggestion for an insulated tank, Kenny. Yes, I have toyed with the idea, but don't care for cleaning up a spill that would get trapped between the tank and the insulation. There is such a thing as insulated Jerry cans, BTW, and water buffaloes are insulated, I believe, so there are models/examples to go by.

It will take a while to heat up, that's true, but I would normally run the engine for at least 1/2 hour in cold weather so it's not a very big deal.

If the fuel lines got heated up quicker, I'd switch at a lower temperature. Right now, the coolant hoses run along side the fuel lines to help warm them.
When using a mix of veggie oil and bio, then the temp would have to be a bit higher.
As usual I appreciate your input.

 

[mangus580]

Bjorn, maybe you can wrap your coolant/fuel lines with some sort of insulation to assist with warming them up faster?

 

[cutdownatree]

Dear Bjorn - some SVO's over time have found that fuel slosh have work hardened the copper coils in fuel tanks and they crack open so a heads up to keep an eye on them!

Also straight diesel fuel if heated too much likes to lose its lubricity but the multifuel may be able to deal with that, I don't know.

Very nice double tank!

 

[cranetruck]

Thanks for the heads up, cutdown, I'm aware of the potential problem, the principal fuel lines on the deuce are also copper.
Now, I'm not actually running SVO, its biodiesel with perhaps 20% SVO and a small percentage of diesel and kerosene (from purging), so the fuel isn't as acid as SVO alone.
Heating of the diesel in the adjacent tank shouldn't be a problem since "heating" in my system is only to room temp. Diesel will get a lot hotter in the sun by itself.

Below is the cage or rack assembled to hold up to 32 cubies with fuel plus 4 to 6 Jerry cans. The color is a Rustoleum primer.
Getting ready for another Florida trip.

 

[DrFoster]

I found an inline heater that used a glow plug on a 150 degree thermostat. The ad said that you can use a high delivery pump to get it to the heater, and then straight into the fuel pump...

Sound reasonable or am I insane? I thought a glow plug on a thermostat would be a great idea becaue it won't ever get too hot and the plug should last for a long time since it doesn't even reach the operating temp of a normal one...

I'll go look for the ad again if anyone was interested. I like the idea of that heater with SVO alone. What do you think?

 

[DrFoster]

Oh - and I wanted to ask, how do you handle the fuel return? Do you have any worries about the VO getting into your diesel supply and tainting it?

 

[cranetruck]

The heated fuel line is good to boost the temp just before the IP, not a concern of mine since I only need to heat the biodiesel to around room temp. Running straight VO requires a much higher temp at the IP, something close to 180-200F. The viscosity of the VO at that temp is still higher than regular diesel at room temp.
Some guy on greasecar.com (forrestgump?) made his own glowplug-thermostat heater.

About handling the return, I have valves in all lines and can control the flow. The purging, when switching will cause some diesel to mix with the biodiesel. I can keep the diesel/kerosene reasonably "pure" by no returning biodiesel to that tank. Still learning.
The large warning indicator on the dash turns on when the fuel is not returned to the tank that has its pump running.

 

[cranetruck]

This is where the material for the "cubie rack" came from.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Hehehe, look at that rickety old trailer, and whats that? Is that one of them notorious 6.2 diesels?
Couldn't resist a little fun Bjorn. That trailer, like your truck, sure has come a long way.
What's that white substance on the ground?