Help!! Cucv will not start

[fobrat]

Help, this truck is a real pain in the a_ _ !!! After fixing a fuel problem, went to start it and the nose cone on starter broke, replaced the starter and now it will not turn over. I can hear the relay click but have no power to the starter!! Anyone PLEASE help me, I wont to burn this truck to the ground. Would take a HMMWV over a CUCV any day but its our plow truck and the snow is falling

 

[mangus580]

I assume you have checked all your connections to make sure they are tight, have installed the extra bracket on the starter, and checked to make sure your batterys are up to snuff.

Given that, its likely that the starter relay under the dash is acting up. Do a quick search for "starter relay" in the CUCV section, and you should find several posts with info on checking it. I am sure I have posted the wire colors to check for voltage and such as well. (dont remember which is which off the top of my head)

If that doesnt help, look up the TM and work through the trouble-shooting steps.

 

[fobrat]

All the connects are good and yes the bracket was installed. I'll have to check the relay, didn't think to earlyer because I heard it working, but will check it anyway. And I hate the TM for them, I'm a HMMWV guy, I think they are more trouble then the are worth. Were in NY are you?

 

[corelokt]

Last resort, try removing the starter and seeing if it spins when free. Might be binding. Also, do you have an inductive pick-up test tool? They test starter amperage draw, and alternator output, simply by placing them up against the power leads to or from each. Not expensive either.

 

[mangus580]

I am about 30 minutes east of Rochester. Which is about 1hr 45 min from you.

 

[fobrat]

The starter is good, new from NAPA and was tested before we bought it. I have no power to it to do a draw test. Mike any chance you could come out and look at this before I lose my mind, cann't pay you, but do have duce parts you may want in return. Is there a fuseable link between the starter and the relay that may have shorted out? I wouldn't be able to test any thing till Monday when I go back to work. Thanks for the help by the way guys!

 

[appalacious]

I assume you have checked all your connections to make sure they are tight, have installed the extra bracket on the starter, and checked to make sure your batterys are up to snuff.

Why does this have to be the case? The bracket that is. Is that how the starter is grounded? Does it not get a good enough ground from the 2 big bolts that go into the engine block?

Thanks,
J

 

[mangus580]

Why does this have to be the case? The bracket that is. Is that how the starter is grounded? Does it not get a good enough ground from the 2 big bolts that go into the engine block?

Thanks,
J

I made the bracket comment more to make sure he didnt snap another starter...

 

[mangus580]

The starter is good, new from NAPA and was tested before we bought it. I have no power to it to do a draw test. Mike any chance you could come out and look at this before I lose my mind, cann't pay you, but do have duce parts you may want in return. Is there a fuseable link between the starter and the relay that may have shorted out? I wouldn't be able to test any thing till Monday when I go back to work. Thanks for the help by the way guys!

I dont think I can make it out there at this point. My vaca runs out.. and have to be back to work monday

What I can do, is start digging through the schematics in the TM's (which you could look at as well) and give you some testing procedures.

The troubleshooting section could be quite helpful too....

 

[swyne]

Do you have your dash lights and such when the key is turned to on position?
because if not, I would check that fuseable link on the fire wall that is a red wire from the battery that turns to blue then to a 2 pole block deal on the fire wall. That would supply the 12V to the cab. My crapped out and I had nothing. The blue part is designed to go if there were a problem. You should have 12V on both sides of that wire measured at that 2 pole deal on the fire wall. keep us posted!!!!!!!!!

 

[jaylsworth]

Are you sure you have a 24V starter and not a 12V starter?

 

[fobrat]

Well I can tell you that everything on the dash works the way it should when I turn the key on, as far as the starter it better be a 24v one, didn't think to check when I put it in, never got the wrong one before NAPA is good to us. But some dumb a_ _ could have mixed it up on the way. And I know I have power to the relay cause I hear to click but don't know if there is any power coming out of it. Do know I have no power to the starter for the start switch.

 

[mangus580]

Have you measured for voltage at the starter on both the big wire and the small one on the solenoid?

 

[dependable]

Can you get a 24 v starter at NAPA? I have never found one in auto parts stores.

 

[twright]

to see if the starter is woking get a remote start switch or make one out of a brake light switch off of a ford put alligator clips on end of wire. put one wire on small lug of started other on + wire of battery hit button it should turn over this will take the starter relay out of the wiring.

 

[fobrat]

Yes you can get a 24v starter from them, I will post the part # on mon. when I get back to work to look at the starter. I have battier power don't know what it is, my helper checked but no power at little one.

 

[twright]

If you had a 12 volt starter it would still work it would turn faster more power just like 6volt starter on old tractors changing over to 12 volts using one wire GM altanator.

 

[mangus580]

Here ya go.... This should help you tremendously.

If you were to replace the relay with more of a 'solenoid', you would use the large terminals on the 24v wires.

 

[fobrat]

Thanks Mike I will take a look at the relay on Mon. and let you know what I find, My last ? is because I haven't checked it, could the relay be bad and still make the click sound like it is working?

 

[mangus580]

Sure can!

Granted... i have never heard my starter relay....