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Help getting 805b running

Tommytone

Member
56
44
18
Location
Ashland, ohio
As was mentioned earlier in this thread by “Guyfang” I believe, a notable difference in temperature on the exhaust manifold ports by using your hand would indicate a problem cylinder. A difference in manifold port temperature as measured with an infrared gun may just be incidental. Have you allowed this engine to reach operating temperature yet? If not, I would do so. That is unless the engine oil pressure is low. (We still don’t know what that is yet?) The reason for allowing the engine to operate up to normal operating temperature is because many times these cold engine misses will clear up. Especially on an engine that hasn’t seen any hours on it for a while. Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, if it still has a miss, or if you can still feel/see a big difference in exhaust manifold port temperatures, now you can begin the trouble-shooting process on that. With the engine running (again, as Guy has previously mentioned) simply crack open the high pressure line at the injector for cylinder #1. (It’s like removing the spark plug wire from cylinder #1 on a gas pot engine) If there is a change in the sound of the engine with that line cracked open, close it and move on down to cylinder #2 and so forth and so on. When you crack an injector line loose (on an engine that’s up to operating temperature) and the engine sound does not change, that’s where your problem is. Now you get to find out if it’s an injector problem, a valve problem, a problem with piston and/or rings etc. My suspicion is that this engine will clear itself up when you allow it to run up to full operating temperature. (For clarification, that would be at least 180 degrees on the temperature gauge, or until the temperature gauge doesn’t go up any further) Report back, good luck and have fun too! Oh, BTW…please, please wear eye protection when cracking open those high pressure lines on a running engine!!!
Thank you! I
As was mentioned earlier in this thread by “Guyfang” I believe, a notable difference in temperature on the exhaust manifold ports by using your hand would indicate a problem cylinder. A difference in manifold port temperature as measured with an infrared gun may just be incidental. Have you allowed this engine to reach operating temperature yet? If not, I would do so. That is unless the engine oil pressure is low. (We still don’t know what that is yet?) The reason for allowing the engine to operate up to normal operating temperature is because many times these cold engine misses will clear up. Especially on an engine that hasn’t seen any hours on it for a while. Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, if it still has a miss, or if you can still feel/see a big difference in exhaust manifold port temperatures, now you can begin the trouble-shooting process on that. With the engine running (again, as Guy has previously mentioned) simply crack open the high pressure line at the injector for cylinder #1. (It’s like removing the spark plug wire from cylinder #1 on a gas pot engine) If there is a change in the sound of the engine with that line cracked open, close it and move on down to cylinder #2 and so forth and so on. When you crack an injector line loose (on an engine that’s up to operating temperature) and the engine sound does not change, that’s where your problem is. Now you get to find out if it’s an injector problem, a valve problem, a problem with piston and/or rings etc. My suspicion is that this engine will clear itself up when you allow it to run up to full operating temperature. (For clarification, that would be at least 180 degrees on the temperature gauge, or until the temperature gauge doesn’t go up any further) Report back, good luck and have fun too! Oh, BTW…please, please wear eye protection when cracking open those high pressure lines on a running engine!!!
Thank You! I ram it today and it seems to run fine after a few minutes and the white smoke clears etc. the oil pressure is about 65 pounds then, after a little longer went up into the 70s (73 psi). Next I need to load it down some and get a good test in that way. When it starts the voltage is over 220 on the main screen and I bring it down to around 215. The individual lines are a little high say around 124 if memory serves. I am not worried it just seemed to me that it would be half of 215 or107 but…. Anyhow I will move on to load testing unless there is something else I should do first. My thought was to do a load test get it running at temp then change the oil as it looks new. If this is a bad plan I can change it first.
 

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Tommytone

Member
56
44
18
Location
Ashland, ohio
I should have referenced the charging amperage. Most off of the shelf 12V battery chargers will charge at 10 -20 amps, and as the battery voltage comes up the charging amps go down. At that rate it could take 12 hours or longer to charge a good battery with 300 CCA. (Cold cranking amps) Some battery chargers will put out up to 50 amps, but that feature is usually not recommended to actually charge the battery. It’s more of a way to start a vehicle which has a discharged battery. That opens up a whole new conversation about using the vehicles charging system to charge a very discharged battery, or set of batteries. Not recommended either, but I won’t go there on this thread🤟
On load testing I was hoping to test using A separate load from my house or barn. I found two3ph 208 10kw shop heaters for not to much. That would get me to 20kw plus two blowers. Sound reasonable? Plus I can test at 10 kw first and use these for monthly runs etc.
 

Koeppel

New member
12
8
3
Location
Idaho
You simply need to pull up on that sleeve (the cap is attached to it with a chain) and when it gets to the top where it won't pull out anymore, rotate the assembly to line up the tabs on the bottom of the sleeve with the notches in the fuel fill neck and it will simply pull all the way out where you can get a glimps of the inside of your tank. I see some fuel residue around the top of your tank. There's a rubber boot that may be cracked and leaking. It will leak when you pour fuel into the main tank. The part number for this boot is 88-22068. I've had to replace a couple of them on the 15kw units. I believe that it's the same part on the larger machines.
Where might a guy find a new boot, PN 88-22068?
 

Koeppel

New member
12
8
3
Location
Idaho
Aerobase shows inventory https://aerobasegroup.com/part-number/88-22068_01-392-0319

BUT... if you are able to zoom in on the part, it calls out a CAGE code of 99135 which comes back to FLEXCO (https://cage.report/SAM/99135)

I would call them and see if they can sell you one direct. Otherwise Aerobase may be able to. Good luck
Dang! And, if I was to try and avoid spending $500 on a replacement, does anyone have any ideas on how I might be able to fabricate something that would work?
 
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