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did you replace the front shocks and the steering stabilizer ?
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Help needed to stop me throwing money at my CUCV, Hopping/Vibration
- Thread starter Ackevor
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Ackevor
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I updated my post to add shocks, I replaced both front and rear. I did not replace the stabilizer since the shop that did my tires was trying to help me find the issue and they checked all the steering components and said everything is tight. That doesn't mean the stabilizer is in working order throughout its range of motion, I should probably replace it anyway.
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that would have been my very first thing to replace,
Ackevor
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I should note, this does not happen with 31" tire and old wheels that sit on the hubs. The new 33" on a different set of wheels that do not make contact with the hub are when it happens. Perhaps the larger wheels amplify the effects and the stabilizer is stressed more having to control bigger heavier tires?
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Maybe the new wheels are not centering properly. I would jack the truck up and spin the tires to see if they act out of round because the wheels are not centered on the hubs.
Ackevor
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I have done this and it doesn't seem to be the source, Besides, these trucks are lug-centric not hub-centric.
I just wanted to put out every difference I have found to help anyone else with similar issues. Also I can't run an indicator on the tires, tread pattern is too aggressive. But I did put a straight edge close enough to monitor the gap as it rotates and nothing caught my eye.
cucvrus
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Exactly. The problem the studs are now supporting the wheel and they are not allowing for self centering of the rim on the hub pilot. I had wheels fall off trucks before because they were riding the weight on the studs and the wheel cracked around the studs and broke studs. After a while going unnoticed the wheel failed and the studs pulled thru the wheel and vis versa. Like I say they design certain things like they do for reasons. But that's fine if you chose to ignore that. But it is better/safer and more reliable in the hub piloted , hub fitting form. I just had 1 Ford wheel on Big red for the past year unknowingly and it caused an unbalanced vibration because it was not riding on the hub. When I put new tires on the problem went away cause I put a CUCV stock steel rim in place of the Ford rim. I put the 4 used tires on a Ford Super Duty rear and they have no vibration. The Ford wheel on the Chevy is my best fastest guess. Have a great day. I hope things work out for you.
Ackevor
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I wasn't choosing to ignore it, I had read advice given elsewhere in the thread that said it wouldn't be what caused this, so I supposed I was misled. I am ordering a stabilizer right now, I will get some wheels too I suppose.
Best source for wheels that ride on the hubs?
Ackevor
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These do not appear to ride the hub either. http://www.hillbillywizard.com/cucv-parts/m1008-cucv-rim/
richingalveston
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I chased the same vabration problem and it was the hubs and studs. The studs are pressed though the drun/rotor and hub, they can get out of alignment and bent. I replaced all four of my hubs because all were bad. I believe they picked the truck up pretty high before dropping it with the fork lift.
New hubs, studs, rear rotors instead of drums and the truck is smoother than my 2014 GMC
you can use a dial gauge on the hubs and drums if you have one to see if they are bad.
jack the wheel up so that it turns but barely touches the ground. you can tell if it is out of round or bent. The tire will drag the ground in some spots
New hubs, studs, rear rotors instead of drums and the truck is smoother than my 2014 GMC
you can use a dial gauge on the hubs and drums if you have one to see if they are bad.
jack the wheel up so that it turns but barely touches the ground. you can tell if it is out of round or bent. The tire will drag the ground in some spots
Ackevor
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Thanks, I hope its not the hubs. I just put tons of work into them last year.... I have an indicator that I have been using to check run-out in places but without any technical guidance on accept or reject criteria and proper places to set the indicator its hard to tell if what I get is good or bad anyway.
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This is not rocket science, just jack each corner up until the tire just barely clears the ground enough so you can spin it. Spin the tire, if it's out of round the tire will hit the ground and stop. I would expect a small amount of run out from the tire's manufacturing tolerances. If you have 0.25", it's too much. I would say about 0.075" radial run out is about the most you want to see. If you can spin the tire and it lightly touches the ground all the way around you are good. if you have to jack it up more in certain spots, there is a problem.
If you don't see much radial run out when you spin the tires, look for lateral run out (wobbling side to side) as that will also cause shaking.
If you find a problem then you have to determine if it's being caused by the tires, rims, or hubs. At least you will have an idea of where to start looking.