Help needed to stop me throwing money at my CUCV, Hopping/Vibration

[Ackevor]

You did put the clip / spacer on the slide when you hammer it in? I have to ask. I have seen them without that spacer.

Yes, with the ears down to keep it from working its way out on its own.

 

[cucvrus]

Easy to remove springs from any vehicle and use all/most of the parts over again except the rubber bushings. Very easy with my tools pictured. Not so easy without them.

 

[Ackevor]

Easy to remove springs from any vehicle and use all/most of the parts over again except the rubber bushings. Very easy with out my tools pictured. Not so easy without them.

HAHAH! melting it out... no doubt would be easy.

 

[cucvrus]

You don't need to melt it just heat it a bit and it comes right out. Makes it very easy. The spring does not get hot enough to effect it. It just helps release the seized thru bolts in the bushings that are junk anyway.

 

[infidel got me]

If I were you I would take it to a front end shop and let them check it out for you. You may end up throwing a lot of parts at it that don't need to be replaced at this time. There are a lot of variables that you described in your write up that can cause problems, like replacing 1 brake line or did you mean rubber brake hose--those should be replaced in pairs as in both fronts. It's kind like buying one new shoe, it should be done in pairs as you will then have equal brake pressure at both calipers. Did you clean rotors off with cleaner [grease does wonders to brake pads] Your brake pedal will feel different than conventional brakes as you have a hydroboost braking system. You may want someone to recheck what you did as a functioning brake system is crucial. Worst case, as told on here a thousand times--grab your favorite beverage and hit the tm's. Good luck and above all be safe.

 

[Ackevor]

Thanks Infidel got me:
I replaced everything on both sides, excluding the one hard line going to the hydraulic line as its nearly new.

I would probably already have everything done by now if it wasn't for everything else going on. But I did get the new harmonic balancer installed, and managed to wedge a 4 lb hammer handle between power steering pump and water pump get the belt tightned properly. Last time it seemed a bit loose. Ill post a neat video of how I got it on when it uploads.

As far as a front end shop, I want to solve the hopping first, which I think is linked to bad drum. The replacement came in the other day and need to find a place that checks them for balance. Actually, I may buy/borrow a static balancer.

This weekend is a wash for me though, reserve duty and all. Just got word I'm the Primary for May 2016 deployment for my shop... at least it will be better than going as 11B in the Army.

 

[infidel got me]

I kinda wish I were there to lend a hand, Iv'e been stumped a few times, but can usually figure it out. Keep us posted as I would like to know where the gremlin is.

 

[Ackevor]

I would love the company, but no worries.

Here is the video of what I did to get the balancer on the crank.
https://youtu.be/MAALFgyQt90

 

[Ackevor]

Nothing new to report other than I swapped the suspect drum, still get the hop. No time left, going to drop it off at local tire place that said they would help find the source. Hopefully they don't charge much.

 

[lukasmcdukas]

ackevor:
I have a similar vibration in my M1028 (which BTW, saddamsnightmare, has no issues getting to 65mph... won't do much more than that until I slap a gear vendors under there, but she gets there just fine). below 15mph its nonexistent. most violent at 25mph, increases in frequency with vehicle speed, but it becomes less severe... climbed underneath and discovered the front driveshaft has a ton of play in it. will be replacing u-joints VERY soon.

 

[cucvrus]

Welcome. But the front driveshaft vibration. Does it do it with the hubs in the free position or just the lock position? If it is vibrating in free make sure your hubs are freeing and not hung up and causing a vibration. A 1028 has the limited slip front and that can get strange if one hub is not unlocking. Just an idea. I am putting it out there for you to look at. Maybe????

 

[tim292stro]

And, yes it's good to check that in fact your hubs are unlocked for road travel. Kids get curious around knobs so if you drive and park in public it's good to check every so often.

 

[cucvrus]

I like the reflector stripes that are in alignment when the hubs are unlocked free and out of alignment when turn partially or locked. You know what I mean?

 

[lukasmcdukas]

just pulled the front shaft. it was definitely the cause... the front shaft spins, even with the truck in 2H... maybe my hubs are sticking, but they're both in the "Free" position. verified several times during troubleshooting my issue. even did a "ghost ride the whip" to check if the shaft was spinning, and it was. do i need to service my hubs again? just did it a few months ago... i thought the shaft would windmill when the axle was rolling whether the hubs were locked OR free, and locking the hubs allowed you to transfer power TO the wheels???

appreciate the input! for now i'm purely 2WD until my parts come in.

didn't mean to hijack the thread... but maybe OP will find this helpful?

 

[cucvrus]

No problem. Just take the 6 Torx 25 screws out and pull the hub covers. I have seen them worn out and just stay out all the time. It may be time for a new set of locking hubs. I replaced mine on several trucks with the Warn 1/4 turn hubs. They are not the premiums but are the same as the OEM hubs. Just a newer technology thing that you only need to turn them a 1/4 turn. Nice.

 

[Ackevor]

just pulled the front shaft. it was definitely the cause... the front shaft spins, even with the truck in 2H... maybe my hubs are sticking, but they're both in the "Free" position. verified several times during troubleshooting my issue. even did a "ghost ride the whip" to check if the shaft was spinning, and it was. do i need to service my hubs again? just did it a few months ago... i thought the shaft would windmill when the axle was rolling whether the hubs were locked OR free, and locking the hubs allowed you to transfer power TO the wheels???

appreciate the input! for now i'm purely 2WD until my parts come in.

didn't mean to hijack the thread... but maybe OP will find this helpful?

Its no problem, my ultimate goal is for people to see what I have done and learn what changed with what work was completed. In my case I know my front drive shaft is good, it also does not spin unless I lock my hubs or put it in 4wd.

 

[lukasmcdukas]

well then, it looks like I'm rebuilding my hubs, too. thanks guys!

 

[Ackevor]

Quick update. Tire shop had the truck. I had the old tires installed at the time, they took the new ones out of the bed and balanced them. They said they were severely unbalanced , then told me they must have installed mine when the machine was down. I guess I figured they would tell me it was down and to come back in a week to get it done buy I guess not. They didn't installed them and test on the truck so my old tires are still on it. They said it was such a difference that they could just about guarantee that was the problem I described as a few of you suggested. Perhaps the drum wasn't the culprit at all and I just wasted shipping costs, paint, and labor time. No time to swap them now and check though, plan to just use the studded for the winter. Ill find out next spring.

On another note, the driveline vibration I get at 55+mph Im almost positive is the new driveshaft, but cant find out why using any inspection methods at home. Im going to call the guy who made it and see if he will check it out for me.

 

[86m1028]

well then, it looks like I'm rebuilding my hubs, too. thanks guys!

Dont over grease them.

 

[Ackevor]

Update. In spring I swapped winter tires with the rebalanced ones. Hopping is still there, however not nearly as bad as before so it did help. Talked to the driveshaft guy a while back and he said he calculate the balance with some measurements and whatnot because no one in the area actually has a dynamic balancer in the area. Although after 30+ years of doing it he said he has never had an issue and doesn't suspect its the problem but would send my shaft out to be balanced on a machine, which I would guess would be at my cost.

Recap: All new parts replaced searching for the source.
-Tires (rebalanced twice, 33")
-Harmonic Balancer
-Kingpin bushings and springs
-Wheel bearings/seals/raceways Front and rear
-Complete brake system: Rotors, Drums, Calipers, Pads, Hardware etc...
-U-joints all around, (front axles, both driveshaft's)
-Rear driveshaft
-Front and rear shocks

Not searching for source but new that may be involved:
700r4 Trans with lockup. Kept stock Tcase (he swapped the spline shaft)

Still just happening around 50 on trucks speedo which is off a bit but repeatable. I can accelerate through it and it goes away but when I am up to highway speeds I feel and hear more of a driveline vibration vs a hopping but not as bad as before.

So other than that I have been still working on the truck, mostly the interior lately.