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HMMWV M1097R1 specific
- Thread starter INFChief
- Start date
Correct. If the bolt is on right, it’s a 6.5 and if on left a 6.2.
All those TM numbers you see should be the TMs you will want to use when working on your 1097.
Mine is also a M1097R1 but the tag doesn’t look like that.
Yes. I was also looking at the RECAP date of 2009.
My R1 doesn't have a tag like that either.
Mine either. I wonder why some have them & others do not? Could it be that these were “early on” data plates and at a certain point they (RECAP program managers) simply decided to not put them on anymore? Or, did certain RECAP sites apply them while other modification sites did not? Lastly, is there any connection between these data plates and whether we need to order AO, A1, or A2 parts? Most likely not A2 but there might very well be some out there?
I've been treating mine like and A1 and the A1 manuals have pretty much matched up perfectly to my R1. I found a manual plate for my machine under the driver's seat, and it calls for A1 manuals. I assume the plate was knocked off of the HMMWV by accident, so they just threw it under the seat.
m715mike
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I took delivery of my M1097R1 yesterday and my now getting to know her.
Very nice!
Looks good chief!
hmmwv-newbie
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Mine has a serial in the 700,000s and has a date of 2006. Hoping I can figure out the real date to lessen the fight with the DMV since I know it has to be 25 years old.
In a few days when it shows up I'll be able to crawl through it and see if there's any date stamped somewhere, from the pictures it has a GEP 6.5L so at least that part is new even if the transmission is still a 3 speed.
In a few days when it shows up I'll be able to crawl through it and see if there's any date stamped somewhere, from the pictures it has a GEP 6.5L so at least that part is new even if the transmission is still a 3 speed.
Hope you figure that out too. Please post what you find.
Very nice. Assuming you didn't buy that from an auction site! lol I just ordered a 2 man to 4 man conversion kit for My 1097R1, along with a new 4 man tan top. I have decided to go back with the desert tan on mine (current color), but I plan to use the truck bed liner instead of just paint. I will also convert most of the under carriage and accessories back to flat black. I just like the look of the flat black details with the tan paint.
I believe my 6.5L motor has less than 3K miles on it, but man was the HMMWV dirty and rough. The oil is still amber colored in it, and after driving it about 100 miles, it's still amber and looks brand new. I'm going to change it all the same, but the motor does appear to have less than 3k miles on it. The mileage says 2859 miles.
I have it running well, and all the small kinks worked out of it other than to figure out some squeaks and knocks. My fan wasn't coming on when it heated up, so I did the tests, and it appears to be the thermostatic fan switch. That switch showed up today, so I will change it out this afternoon.
For the life of me, I can't find a knock in the front driver's side under my feet. I've pulled, pushed and yanked on everything and I cannot find the knock. Just seems to happen on turns while accelerating and everything seems to be tight as a drum underneath. May just need some driving, I don't know.
Gastrap
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Mine is in the 600K range and was auctioned as a 2006.
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I’ve noticed that there is a quick disconnect on some fan clutch hoses. I don’t happen to have one and am not currently looking for one. It seems the only reason to use a Q-disconnect is so you don’t need to try and cram 2 hands in to such a tight space.
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The best reason for the quick connect, which do leak sometimes is to make it easier to change belts, only you do not need to disconnect the hose to change a serpentine belt which appears to be in production about the time they started installing the quick connects, would be handy for V belts which do not last all that long and require removing the hose, I am curious if they installed them on the 3 speed R1s when they rebuilt them which still have V belts.
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