• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Hmmwv rubber O-ring warped

ANG3CHEAPSHOT

Member
45
26
18
Location
California
So I’m replacing my tires and I’ve finally got my run flat back in and the drum back in and I open the package to my new O-ring. Because they were looped in the packaging the have a couple slight bends in them and won’t lay flat on the rim. Does anyone have any tips on how to straighten them out so I can finish putting this thing back together??
 

mgFray

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
712
983
93
Location
Southern Minnesota
Straighten them out by hand (gently). You might want to set them in the sun for a few minutes...

Then use some 'green slime' (tire fix-a-flat).. put a SMALL amount in the grove, set the o-ring into the grove.. if it isn't holding, add a SMALL amount on top.. between the o-ring, the grove and the green slime it should hold in the grove..

Then use regular (not the locking) nuts to put the two halves together, torque to spec... air it up -- verify it's holding.. then _REMOVE ALL OF THE AIR_ (NEVER remove any of the bolts with air in the tire!), and swap the locking nuts ONE AT A TIME, torque to spec, air it back up and it should be fine.

I did my 4 tires this way (by hand, no power tools) and everything was air tight the first time.. only thing is the green slime will run between the wheel halves, so might drip out.. but this is why you only used a SMALL amount.
 

ANG3CHEAPSHOT

Member
45
26
18
Location
California
Straighten them out by hand (gently). You might want to set them in the sun for a few minutes...

Then use some 'green slime' (tire fix-a-flat).. put a SMALL amount in the grove, set the o-ring into the grove.. if it isn't holding, add a SMALL amount on top.. between the o-ring, the grove and the green slime it should hold in the grove..

Then use regular (not the locking) nuts to put the two halves together, torque to spec... air it up -- verify it's holding.. then _REMOVE ALL OF THE AIR_ (NEVER remove any of the bolts with air in the tire!), and swap the locking nuts ONE AT A TIME, torque to spec, air it back up and it should be fine.

I did my 4 tires this way (by hand, no power tools) and everything was air tight the first time.. only thing is the green slime will run between the wheel halves, so might drip out.. but this is why you only used a SMALL amount.
got it thanks I’ll try that
 

mgFray

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
712
983
93
Location
Southern Minnesota
tire_mid_assembly.jpg

Not sure this adds any actual value to the thread, but this was one of mine halfway through the process. You can see the washers and standard nuts at this point, along with the tire soap on the edge of the tire, and the green slime bottle upper right.

I was just about to air up the tire and verify it was holding in this picture, before swapping all of the lock nuts on.
 

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,932
9,594
113
Location
Papalote, TX
I use Murphy's tire soap, buy it 5 gal at a time.
You can also take a huge tractor tire with a 3" or more gape all the around the bead and make it take air!
If you scoop it up as the tire ejects it you can recover allot of it, will not hurt anything to do with a tire.
GOOD STUFF!!
 

mgFray

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
712
983
93
Location
Southern Minnesota
I use Murphy's tire soap, buy it 5 gal at a time.
You can also take a huge tractor tire with a 3" or more gape all the around the bead and make it take air!
If you scoop it up as the tire ejects it you can recover allot of it, will not hurt anything to do with a tire.
GOOD STUFF!!
Don't remember what brand I bought, but I got the smallest bucket I could. I'm pretty sure it'll last the rest of my life!

But this was the first time I'd ever mounted my own tires, and I consider it a success in my case. Even though it did take many many hours to do all 4 tires.
 

Ajax MD

Well-known member
1,569
1,414
113
Location
Mayo, MD
Hi all, just to piggyback on this-

Can someone please confirm that the RED o-rings are for wheels with a lower load rating that do NOT have the small hole (as seen in the photo above) and that the heavier rated wheels (with the hole) use a BLACK o-ring? Is this true, or internet rumor?

Thanks.
 

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,932
9,594
113
Location
Papalote, TX
Hi all, just to piggyback on this-

Can someone please confirm that the RED o-rings are for wheels with a lower load rating that do NOT have the small hole (as seen in the photo above) and that the heavier rated wheels (with the hole) use a BLACK o-ring? Is this true, or internet rumor?

Thanks.
I think you have that backwards, according to HPG these are the rims the RED O ring fits.
oring.JPG
 

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,932
9,594
113
Location
Papalote, TX
There is no reason to use the earlier wheels unless you want do do a "correct" early restoration as the 12 bolt wheels with the alignment hole and even 24 bolt wheels are abundant and cheap.
 

Ajax MD

Well-known member
1,569
1,414
113
Location
Mayo, MD
There is no reason to use the earlier wheels unless you want do do a "correct" early restoration as the 12 bolt wheels with the alignment hole and even 24 bolt wheels are abundant and cheap.
When I bought my truck, it came with the bias tires and wheels on them. I simply bought 12 bolt wheels with M/T's on them and ran them. I have a mix of earlier and later wheels hanging around the house.

The reason I'm going through these machinations is because I discovered a nasty cut in the sidewall of a tire that is just begging for a blowout. I have a good spare but it leaks down so I want to replace the o-ring before installing it on the truck.
 

Ajax MD

Well-known member
1,569
1,414
113
Location
Mayo, MD
Question:

I know there's a bias tire run-flat and a radial tire run-flat. Is there also a radial tire run-flat that has an integrated spacer or is there always a separate spacer?
If so, how can I identify it?
 

mgFray

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
712
983
93
Location
Southern Minnesota
AFAIK radials do not have a spacer of any type. It's just a donut with a ridge down the middle. I disassembled by 4 tires on my rig (12-bolt with centering hole), removed the runflats. (Yes there was 'goo' inside the tires between the runflats and the tire.). I could have compressed them and put them into the new tires, but I went with the PVC beadlocks instead.
 

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,400
4,182
113
Location
Brentwood, Calif
Question:

I know there's a bias tire run-flat and a radial tire run-flat. Is there also a radial tire run-flat that has an integrated spacer or is there always a separate spacer?
If so, how can I identify it?
the bias ply RF was a magnesium 2 piece, not a great idea, then the 2 piece rubber RF for the early 12 bolt rim, and finally the 1 piece RF we are all most accustomed to seeing, there is also as of recent a new aluminum 2 piece being used in the latest trucks.
 

86humv

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,700
501
113
Location
Texas
Hi all, just to piggyback on this-

Can someone please confirm that the RED o-rings are for wheels with a lower load rating that do NOT have the small hole (as seen in the photo above) and that the heavier rated wheels (with the hole) use a BLACK o-ring? Is this true, or internet rumor?

Thanks.
,
 

Ajax MD

Well-known member
1,569
1,414
113
Location
Mayo, MD
Grr, I can't break the bead to remove the top half of the wheel. I'm ordering a bread breaker and spoons.
 

mgFray

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
712
983
93
Location
Southern Minnesota
Do you have an engine hoist? You can use a hoist to separate the rim, and then pull the rim off the bead.


Go about 18:30 into the video to see how to do this. It's how I did all of my rims.

(Note when I did it to my own tires, I used a strap to center the pull in the rim.. worked great for me.)
 

Ajax MD

Well-known member
1,569
1,414
113
Location
Mayo, MD
Do you have an engine hoist? You can use a hoist to separate the rim, and then pull the rim off the bead.


Go about 18:30 into the video to see how to do this. It's how I did all of my rims.

(Note when I did it to my own tires, I used a strap to center the pull in the rim.. worked great for me.)
I don't have an engine hoist at the moment. I've seen that method.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks