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Definitely looks clean and pretty sharp!
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Hollingsworth MEP-005a
- Thread starter ZRyals
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Definitely looks clean and pretty sharp!
have any tips for that filter lid? She’s not playing very nice lmao.
here are the rest of the photos as promised. Featuring the new oil filter housing, it came off of a dirt track car so that will make it faster right?
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Chainbreaker
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Looks pretty darn good on inside. Other than typical rust on the battery tray & a couple spots on the injector lines it's mostly just normal dust inside. There are a couple wires in one of the photos (Post#23 Pic #2) that were taped off. Wonder what those went to?
Interesting that Hollingworth built the genset in 1990, a late model by the way, & the White engine in your genset is a 1984. I guess either Hollingsworth or White had stockpiled an inventory of engines that were sitting somewhere in a warehouse that were used to fulfill future genset builds.
Interesting that Hollingworth built the genset in 1990, a late model by the way, & the White engine in your genset is a 1984. I guess either Hollingsworth or White had stockpiled an inventory of engines that were sitting somewhere in a warehouse that were used to fulfill future genset builds.
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In picture #6 I see a wire, (at least one) unhooked. I picture #8, I see a hack job, that's not Standard. It also explains, (I think) why the wire is unhooked.
This is in ref. to the first batch of pictures.
This is in ref. to the first batch of pictures.
Ray70
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What do I see in Picture #8 of post 17? Looks like an aftermarket voltage regulator.
Chainbreaker
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Yep, that is indeed what it appears to be! You can even see "Voltage" labeled on the rightmost trimpot. Also, might have something to do with the 2 wires (Post#23 Pic #2) I noticed that were taped off.
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Chainbreaker
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Yeah, I too noticed that wire in Post #17 pic #6 at the corner of the terminal block that appeared to be positioned right above the terminal block corner hanging loose just above it with what looks like eyelet pointed down. Though after studying it a while I figured it was shadows playing visual tricks... that the eyelet was most likely bent at a right angle and connected to the TB and the shadows & corner of the TB inline was playing tricks... maybe not though? If it had been disconnected for whatever reason, I would have expected it to be taped off. But...that's assuming & with you also questioning it I agree it needs to be verified as connected.
There was a regulator laying loose on that tray when I picked it up, I stuck it in a bag before I loaded it. There is one ring terminal pictured that is not connected to anything How should I proceed? Also, I was able to get the alternator charging, the fuse ends in had degraded, good to go now! I took the fault indicator out and looked at the board, the inboard side is full of rust in the board so I think that might be a lost cause to fix. seeking a replacement currently.
also, got some new hoses made for the spin on oil filter boss that don’t look quite so janky
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Chainbreaker
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As for the "now verified" loose hanging wire... you need to look at the wire itself and get the wire # that is printed directly along the wire insulation. With that you will be able to identify where the wire should be connected by using the schematics in the TM.
Upon further inspection I found the cannon plug that wire belonged to, aswell as another loose wire stuffed into the passthrough hole for the harness . Labeled D11G16 and D12G16 in a red-ish color. At first glance it looked like it was just part of the harness, until I moved it to get a wire number and the whole thing came out
To the TM’s!Attachments
looking through the TM’s on here it looks like, D11G runs from P3-C to P9-C and D12G runs from P3-D to P9-D. Based on what I Am seeing in the parts manual and googling the national part number that is indeed an aftermarket VR and there is second plug on the OE VR, which I have not found in the diagrams yet. I‘m having a hard time reading some of the scanned sheets, so I may have to track down some paper manuals.Upon further inspection I found the cannon plug that wire belonged to, aswell as another loose wire stuffed into the passthrough hole for the harness . Labeled D11G16 and D12G16 in a red-ish color. At first glance it looked like it was just part of the harness, until I moved it to get a wire number and the whole thing came out
Ray70
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Sounds like you are on your way to success, but if you need anything verified visually, I have the same vintage Hollingsworth 005 here in my yard.... with a likewise goo dripping Thermal Watt converter ( I read Guy's correction ) 
if You need anything checked out.
if You need anything checked out.
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The TB is TB16. It has two wire coming in from the static exciter, and two wires going out to the excitor in the main gen.
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The aftermarket Voltage Regulator appears to be an ADVR-053.
The ADVR-053 has been superseded by the ADVR-054 and appears a bit different than the -053.
Oshkosh sold a kit using that module to replace the exciter. ---> Oshkosh Kit
Here is a schematic of how their kit was wired in. It included an SS500 Field Flashing module, relay, potentiometer and power resistor.
The ADVR-053 has been superseded by the ADVR-054 and appears a bit different than the -053.
Oshkosh sold a kit using that module to replace the exciter. ---> Oshkosh Kit
Here is a schematic of how their kit was wired in. It included an SS500 Field Flashing module, relay, potentiometer and power resistor.
That is a beautiful diagram, appreciate that. Is the G I am seeing on my wires actually a faded B? Lol
Your loose wire is going to the cannon plug for the flied flash. I've completed the conversion several times because the VR/Exciter box is the weak point in the system. But on my conversion I used a simple push button for the field flash instead of the complicated field flashing module. There is a write up I did on here about it. The advr-053 and 054 are supposed to be self-exciting with residual electricity in the gen head but it never worked for me. I had to introduce a field flash push button which sent 24v to the exciter in the head. Also the black gloo is from the Watt Transducer. I wouldn't worry about that because every unit I've dealt with had a bad watt transducer.
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The Thermal Watt Converter is older then most of the forum members. Cut them some slack. I am 68, and drool too.