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how to remove rear drum?

DeuceNewb

Member
397
6
18
Location
Wilmington, NC
I have a leaking wheel cylinder in the rear axle and I need to replace it. How do I remove the drum? I can't figure it out. I pulled off the wheels, and then thought it should just beat off. Nope, so I removed all the nuts I saw attached to studs running around the drum, still nothing. I've searched and can't find anything. Do i have it right and just need a bigger hammer?
 
718
9
18
Location
Springfield Or
You need to pull the axle, then remove the bearing retainer nuts and then pull the hub assembly. The drum will come off with it.
When you assemble it you need to jam a piece of cork into the keyway to keep oil out of the bearings. I would replace the seals while I was there and pack the bearings.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,808
113
Location
GA Mountains
Step by step with pictures in TM 9-2320-361-20 which is available for free in the TM section.
 

brainsboy

Member
34
14
8
Location
Tampa, FL
They are the 8 bolts in the center of the axle, you can see them with the tire on the truck. Pull out the axle then you will have access to the 3" nut that is holding the drum on . They make two different sockets in a 3" and again going off memory I believe you need the 8 sided socket.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,179
113
Location
NY
You can remove the drum with a bigger hammer, but you can not re-install it that way.

At this point in deuce ownership, you have 2 choices. Pay someone to work on your truck or download and learn to use the TMs.
 

sandcobra164

Well-known member
2,999
295
83
Location
Leesburg, GA
I agree with RTFM but I'll be a little nicer. With an 11/16" wrench in hand, you'll notice two bolt heads on either side of the line going into the wheel cylinder. Guess what they do? Ahh, I could tell you but that would go against the Mods' wishes so I'll also go back to the read the TM rant if you can't figure out on your own what those two bolt heads are for. There's two more at the bottom of the drum but they won't help you much.
 

rtk

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,190
446
83
Location
Lockport N.Y.
Just finished a bearing and seal service on my MV. Not to bad a job , once you get rocking and rolling . Recommend the Big 8 PT. socket , makes it easier to adjust the bearings . I used GAA for the bearings and replaced the seals , and DO NOT forget the little cork , I used some Blue silicone on the cork and keyway also . I used a engine crane and strap to remove and install the hub and drum , they do have a bit of weight ( should have taken a few PICTURES) worked like a charm . I am installing 395's so I had to remove tires and wheels anyway , and don't forget to adjust the brakes ! This subject has been talked to death , as others have said read the TM's .
 

zout

In Memorial
In Memorial
7,744
154
63
Location
Columbus Georgia
I was gonna vote for bigger hammer - I have 25 pound sledge hammers for sale for instances just like this. When you don't know how it comes apart - beat the tar out of it.
 

welldigger

Active member
2,602
15
38
Location
Benton LA
When brute force doesn't work....your not using enough of it.


On a serious note though, the TM's and search function of this forum work wonders for basic maintenance questions.
 

FASTNOVA

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,093
146
63
Location
Los Angeles,Ca
READ THE TM'S!!!
READ THE TM'S!!!
and after you're done with that
READ THE TM'S!!!
Welcome to Steel Soldier's:beer: A BFH always makes good work of anything.
 

DeuceNewb

Member
397
6
18
Location
Wilmington, NC
well I thought I was missing something because i did what I saw and got nothing. My problem was my hammer wasn't big enough and there was too much rust.
 

rtk

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,190
446
83
Location
Lockport N.Y.
187 , I got my seals at Memphis Equipment last year when I was at the convention in Huntsville . I Have a A3 so I changed everything over to the A2 setup , MUCH easier to repair over the CTIS seals . Not a bad job , once you burn off the air ring , I have lots of CTIS bearing if anybody needs some, LOL I did use GAA for packing the bearings , nice stuff , DO NOT FORGET THE CORK SEAL and I did use some HI-TEMP sealer on the cork also. I would also recommend a TIRE DOLLY , easy on the back , got mine at Northern Tool , plus a 3/4 " impact gun , had my trusty IR . When you get the wheels off you can rap a 6 ' nylon around the drum and use a engine crane to take the weight of the hub/drum setup , do not forget to loosen the brake adjusters before you try to remove the drums . It took about 2-3 hours a side for the rears . About a day in total for both rear axles . I got lucky with the brakes , gotta love the military , somebody JUST did a FULL brake overhaul just before it went to auction . bob k
 
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