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Humvee shock absorber and spring options?
- Thread starter dhaumann69166
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Cepek shocks are adjustable. Lifetime warranty. Sales support a true offroad supporter and HMMWV/Hummer enthusiast, Tom Cepek.
I don't want to beat a dead horse, but I have looked through this forum and can't seem to find the answer to my questions. Perhaps I can ask some of you experts to help? I have been attempting to install the Armada 4x4 springs in my 1165 with a winch and ibis-tech bumper. Most of the posts on this subject have cut one ring off to install? Then added a spacer to attain the height they want. My questions are: #1, With the added weight of the appliances in mind, should I take one ring off? #2, If I don't cut the springs, what geometry issues should I expect? collapse bottoming out, and so on and so forth. I am sure these issues have been explored, and I am just missing them, so any advice will be greatly appreciated.
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The true way to place springs is to:
Decide upon wanted ride height WRH
Measure spings uninstalled lengh USL
Install springs and measure Initial ride height. IRH
Set up a simultaneous equation to obtain wanted uninstalled ring length WUSL.
WRH / IRH= WUSL / USL
Solve for WUSL.
Remove and cut spring to calculated wanted uninstalled spring length.
Final re-installation.
IIRC
Decide upon wanted ride height WRH
Measure spings uninstalled lengh USL
Install springs and measure Initial ride height. IRH
Set up a simultaneous equation to obtain wanted uninstalled ring length WUSL.
WRH / IRH= WUSL / USL
Solve for WUSL.
Remove and cut spring to calculated wanted uninstalled spring length.
Final re-installation.
IIRC
Last edited:
Kurt Lombard
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I have been thinking of trying out some even softer springs to thanks for this tip. Cepek shocks are more important than springs but anyone looking for a soft ride needs both. With tires at 22 psi my M998 rides softer on rough city roads than my VW Touareg.
What I didn't see in this discussion was how tire pressure plays a significant role. The double bead lock allows me to air way down to 5-9 psi. With 42" tires I can fly through chop, rock fields and Moab square edges. It is a little spongy and bouncy with 5 psi so I set it to the terrain. I run about 22 psi on the road. I air down by removing the valve core (carry a spare) and air back up with a Tozalazz 12v portable air compressor which I am super impressed with. It airs up almost as fast as down. Run your engine while airing up or you can drain your battery.
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I have never liked the idea of airing down on pavement. This goes back to the Ford Explorer disasters. Ford was telling people to run 20 psi in tires. The tires flexed too much, the sidewalls degraded, and tire explosions caused many fatal and crippling accidents. This was worsened by the fact that Ford stopped reinforcing the A-pillars properly.
Now let’s talk about your HMMWV . If you air down on tires with a max pressure of 50PSI while you drive highway speed, AND we know that we have really horrible A-pillar strength and in some cases really horrible B-pillar strength, you are setting up for disaster. On the street/highway I keep my tires at 40 psi.
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Aired down on pavement will give softer ride, but at expense of longevity and fuel consumption, and makes it harder to steer at low speeds, since the larger tire contact area increases friction.
As with Tobash, I would never air down tires on pavement in order to soften the ride. My tires are at least 35psi, on a 7500 lb truck, and I increase that when I'm at 9500 lbs (I have the habit of swapping things around different times of the year, as in winter it's a work truck with a BEOD on it for a work body, and summer it's a pickup or troop carrier for playing off road and parades)
And since it does make a difference, I'm running LR-D Baja tires right now. LR-E tires ran at a slightly lower pressure due to heavier sidewalls
If in doubt about what tire pressure to run, you can always use the chalk method to determine a good on road pressure.
www.intercotire.com
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As with Tobash, I would never air down tires on pavement in order to soften the ride. My tires are at least 35psi, on a 7500 lb truck, and I increase that when I'm at 9500 lbs (I have the habit of swapping things around different times of the year, as in winter it's a work truck with a BEOD on it for a work body, and summer it's a pickup or troop carrier for playing off road and parades)
And since it does make a difference, I'm running LR-D Baja tires right now. LR-E tires ran at a slightly lower pressure due to heavier sidewalls
If in doubt about what tire pressure to run, you can always use the chalk method to determine a good on road pressure.
Using The Chalk Method for Determining PSI | Interco Tire
Using The Chalk Method for Determining PSI - NOTE. This article is posted for reference only. You should always consult with your local tire installation professional(s) when you have questions about your tires.
www.intercotire.com
Kurt Lombard
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I do air up for the infrequent extended highway trip but even at 22 psi the tires don't squirm and run cool. Probably since they are 42" and and I'm under 5000 lb with the motor swap. Totally agree with the roll bar and why I built a full cage before any of the other mods.
1986 M998: motor swapped to LQ9 with stage 2 built 4L65E, 3" body lift, 42" Pitbull Rockers, PVC runflat replacement, PRP seats, Cepek adjustable shocks, 940 lb rate shocks front and rear, sway bar removed, 8 point roll cage integrated to 1/4" aluminum plate flooring and steel slide rails, reinforced steel plate belly pan, flush mounted X-Bull synthetic rope winch, just enough remaining from that joke of a roll bar to make door frames, 4 point harnesses, 12V and 24V systems, lots of heavy duty parts from later variants.
1986 M998: motor swapped to LQ9 with stage 2 built 4L65E, 3" body lift, 42" Pitbull Rockers, PVC runflat replacement, PRP seats, Cepek adjustable shocks, 940 lb rate shocks front and rear, sway bar removed, 8 point roll cage integrated to 1/4" aluminum plate flooring and steel slide rails, reinforced steel plate belly pan, flush mounted X-Bull synthetic rope winch, just enough remaining from that joke of a roll bar to make door frames, 4 point harnesses, 12V and 24V systems, lots of heavy duty parts from later variants.
Well, I took the plunge and installed the Armada/ MOOG 81085 springs in the front position. Based on my calculations, I cut one ring from the springs to achieve the closest ride height I had with the old springs. With the new springs, I effectively lowered the front end 3"s!! This was not the result I was looking for, Lol. The M1165 A1, I believe, has a curb weight of approximately 8000#, and the Armada springs just collapse under that load. I will continue looking for a softer ride without the spring sag or the loss of fender clearance. I am posting this only to inform, not to admonish, as everyone who has offered help has been great and a wealth of knowledge. We tend to make our own problems when we take on one of these projects, and over the years, I have had a few. So, anyone looking to respring your M1165A1, I wouldn't consider the Armada spring unless you are completely stripped. When and if I find a suitable replacement I will post it here. Thank you for all the help.
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Did you use the coil spacers in the front as well? I remember over in the Armada springs thread a few people talked about installing a spacer as well for the proper ride height
TOBASH, I would have tried the spacers if the springs had not collapsed, but as they are, they have very little spring left in them, so adding the spacer would only collapse them more, I believe. The spacers, I believe, are 1" or 2", and I lost over 3 inches of fender clearance. However, I am still researching that route and will post it here when I find out.
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The stock springs on the m1165A1 are perfectly fine IMO…the variable rate rears are the same as what’s in an H1, the fronts have 2k rated springs.
The only person making springs worth a sh*t is Mike Hoffman out in Chicago.
As far as your Cepek adjustable shocks? Don’t waste your money…but your welcome too as it’s your money, but my opinion is only based on my experience and that’s is similar to others who have taken the plunge and regretted it.
A good set of spring is more important on these trucks than the shock type…
The only person making springs worth a sh*t is Mike Hoffman out in Chicago.
As far as your Cepek adjustable shocks? Don’t waste your money…but your welcome too as it’s your money, but my opinion is only based on my experience and that’s is similar to others who have taken the plunge and regretted it.
A good set of spring is more important on these trucks than the shock type…
KingTriton
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hey guys… I have the 1123 Heavy basically stripped down - just read through this and still no clear solution on springs for better performance on or off the road?
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Welcome to the SS forums!!
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Someone just posted an amazing description of opening stock HMMWV shocks to make them more ride friendly.
12k shock mod (Softer Ride)
I have an ECV M1114, cast rear upper spring mounts, non progressive rear springs. I had trouble driving it over 2MPH off road and wouldn't take it on some of the bad roads around town because it was so rough. Per some other threads I pulled the shocks completely for a few miles, rode much...
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