I'm pretty sure I've got the Vampire Issue.....

[WalterMitty]

I have a few questions...I know some might be really dumb, but fully admit to being a mechanical midget.

1) Checking the transmission fluid: Per the manual that I read, you're supposed to do this while the engine is running...it says something like start the engine, put your foot on the brake, put the shifter in each gear for 2 seconds and then check the fluid. If this is right, this is what I did.. I've always check these before with the vehicle not running...so this seemed new/odd to me.

If I did the above check correctly, I'm a little low...just out of the hash marks between full and add.

2) I then parked on level ground and checked the transfer case level, and fluid poured out. Per what I have read, the level should be about 1/2 inch below the fill/check plug. I waited a little bit while some fluid drained out, but it didn't stop right away, so put the plug back in.

3) To repair the vampire issue, I wanted to get some thoughts on which route to go. I feel like there are two main options...

Option 1: Bypass the cooling loop. To do this, I basically create a "U-turn" for the two lines coming from the transmission into the transfer case, so that one line just runs right back into the other. Questions for this option....1) what do I cap off the two holes/nipples that are on the transfer case? 2) Are these two lines that now have a U-turn in connecting them, okay to just dangle? They were connected to the transfer case, now they would just be floating a bit. 3) Is it really okay to run the M998 with this bypass going on?

Option 2: repair or replace the cooling loop. I think there are newer cases, and have improved loops, or I might be able to buy a new loop that can be put into the transfer case. Besides being a lot more money (I have no idea how much more), what are your thoughts on this option? Pros and Cons?

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[WalterMitty]

I should say, that was always on level ground when checking both transmission and transfer case levels, AND I did shut the vehicle off before I checked the transfer case.

 

[Action]

I've already read up and took pictures of how to solve the Vampire issue just in case.

Yes, you will have two "u"s to keep contaminates out. Make sure the one from the transmission is not kinked. Others have driven like this with no issues.
I tried to tell you before what was wrong.
I have only been driving for 26 years, and I have always checked trans levels with the engine running, trans warm, and after going through all gears.
Here is the updated cooling loop for the 242. I dont know which T/C you have.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-AM-Gene...ash=item464f1011b7:g:Rt4AAOSwbYZXUcIS&vxp=mtr
And, why would you want the tranfer case fluid 1/2" below the fill plug hole. The hole is in that location to fill until it runs out and put the plug in.

 

[WalterMitty]

The 1/2" below the fill plug is per the TM, it's not what I want. Others have said you put your finger in and the level should just be down a bit, like 1/2 way to your first nuckle.

I listened to you in the other thread....never said you were wrong....I was just hoping and crossing my fingers that it was bad seals or overfilled versus the Vampire.

I don't know what case I have either. Is there an easy way to tell?

 

[Lawdog734]

And just like they tried to tell you in the other thread, you can't overfill the transfer case, so they were pointing out that you had an issue from the outset. Bad seals will cause the leak but it sure as **** doesn't explain the excess fluid.

 

[Action]

Look for a round red tag, probably on the back. Or if there is a u-joint on the back end, it is a 218. If there is a big hole with the rear propshaft shoved in, it is a 242.

 

[BLK HMMWV]

Walter
If you have the 6.2 you most likely has a 218.
I'd bypass it for now with a piece of 3/8" tubing like RWH suggested.
I drove mine like that for probably 10 years.
Eventually I swapped out the complete power pack to a 6.5N/A 4l80 242.
Spend the money elsewhere on your rig for now. If your not out driving it everyday in a war zone you don't need that cooling loop.
If you just got it you will soon figure out if you want to keep throwing money at it.
the novelty of it will wear off and you will soon understand what HMMWV stands for.
It isn't what the government says it means.
You will soon learn to maintain them yourself or find a HMMWV Whisperer.
I suggest that you learn to work on them yourself but hey that's just me.
Why do you think we leave them spread out all over the world after we up and leave, because they don't fix themselves.
Many an 18 year old learned to drive in them , and they drove them like they stole them.
You now own one of them. Chances are it was beat to **** or just started and left to idle per reg's.

If it was mine I'd wait an upgrade the power pack before I spent money on replacing the loop .
BH

 

[WalterMitty]

I have an 1987...and I'm pretty sure it's a 6.2. I'm not sure about which transfer case since it's not original and has been replaced...but even if it's not a 218 it still appears to be a vampire.

To be crystal clear on the bypass....I will have two u-turns, right? One u-turn for the transfer case going out and then into itself and then another u-turn for the lines coming and going from the transmission?

I only ask this, since I was thinking that I might just be able to "cap off" the two nipples on the transfer case, versus making another u-turn. But maybe this would some how mess up a loop that it needs to take?

 

[WalterMitty]

BH:

I'm learning real quick what the HMMWV stands for. I owned it only 9 days when the starter took a crap, necessitating a tow and rebuild. Now the t-case issue. Having said that, it's still all good......I love driving it, and even looking at the thing in my driveway.

Plus my 18 and 16 year olds love taking the doors off and cruising around....and at their age there's not a lot of kewl things to do with dad these days.

 

[papakb]

There are 2 styles of cooling bands that go into the transfer case. The original was a "C" shaped loop with fittings that went through the transfer case wall and attached to the cooling lines. What would happen was people would overtorque the sealing nuts and that would twist the cooling band cracking the welds and causing leakage. The later design is a continuous ring with both of the fitting that go through the case wall on a single block that prevents twisting the cooling band itself.

Unless your planning on pulling some heavy stuff, like a howitzer, just cap off the cooling band and bypass the cooling lines.

Kurt

 

[BLK HMMWV]

Correct you can hook a piece of 3/8" tubing between the hard lines to loop them together. This is the part that still will have fluids running between them and have pressure on them.
The fittings on the transfer case can be capped off or another small piece of hose jumped between them . There will be no pressure on that hose.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Easier to post a pic of the tcase....

 

[papakb]

Then why didn't you do it?

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Then why didn't you do it?

I meant it's easier for the Op to post a pic of the Tcase so we can see the model type....if you read his OP he is not sure what TCase he has....and No, I'm not going to post a pic of the 2 different 2 cases if that's what your inferring.
i have none for starters....but feel free Kurt.

 

[Action]

We can put up a pic of the NP2225 and really confuse them...

 

[WalterMitty]

Here are pics of my Transfer Case

There are 3 pics...the front, the back, and then I've included one that shows the cooling lines running into the transfer case. For the by pass, I think I understand, making a U-turn with a hose between the two lines. What I am less understanding is what can I use to cap off the two nipples coming from the transfer case. I know I could just use another hose and a U-turn, but is there another product or device that could just be screwed on or attached that would cap them off? Thanks

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

There are 3 pics...the front, the back, and then I've included one that shows the cooling lines running into the transfer case. For the by pass, I think I understand, making a U-turn with a hose between the two lines. What I am less understanding is what can I use to cap off the two nipples coming from the transfer case. I know I could just use another hose and a U-turn, but is there another product or device that could just be screwed on or attached that would cap them off? Thanks

it appears to be a rebuilt 218 tcase....but as others have stated....use 2 pieces of 3/8 hose and loop both the trans and the tcase back into each other....but what you haven't done is determine if you even have the broken cooler loop.
just make sure you tcase is full, make sure your trans is good on level fluid.
now go drive it for a few days, checking the level of the trans and tcase....if you open the fill plug and get a face full of fluid, you have the broken cooler loop.
i had one so bad that it only took a drive a 1/4mile before it filled the tcase so that when I took the fill plug out, I got a gallon in a catch pan....suffice to say, the trans didn't even register.

 

[Action]

What I am less understanding is what can I use to cap off the two nipples coming from the transfer case. I know I could just use another hose and a U-turn, but is there another product or device that could just be screwed on or attached that would cap them off? Thanks

Why are you trying to complicate this. Just put a piece of hose to connect them and be done with it. The product made to connect to them is the short hoses coming from the transmission. OR, you can take some pliers and flatten the metal fittings, fold them over on themselves and put some tape on them.
You have been told multiple times how to block them off, but you keep asking how to do it.
I guess you should just take it to a shop and tell them to fix it for you.

 

[WalterMitty]

Action: I'm just a newbie, and a self reported mechanical midget, but I am fairly smart in other areas, and I ask lots of questions, just so I better understand things. I get that creating two loops is simple, and probably the way I will go. But I wanted to be see if there were alternatives, since there's not a lot of space to create these loops, and with a quick U-turn, it might be easy to crimp the hose. On the flipside, if reading my posts gets you worked up too much, please skip them.

 

[Action]

Its not that you ask a lot of questions, it is that you kept asking for other ways to do it after several guys told you how.
A kink is fine on the transfer case "U". Use a length of hose on the trans lines to prevent a kink.