In-tank fuel pump issues after 1 year

[Banshee365]

Bjorn, there is only a resistor in there, no capaciter. I think the resistor is only 5W. I'm not thinking that caused the problems. It makes more sense to me that the batteries running down killed it.

I do no abuse my truck and take more precaution than anyone I know with the truck. However I do think that's what killed it. I turned it on the drain the primary filter bowl and was talking with my fiance. I forgot to turn it off after I took the sumped fuel that I use for starting burn's back into the garage. I know to make sure the switch is off now because I think leaving it on cost me another fuel pump. I'm not bashing the company in any way because it's slightly over a year since I bought it and their warranty is not that long, as would anyone's be I think. The pump is dead because I left the batteries on not because it's defective I'm sure. It was really quite and sounded great until I killed the batteries. Now when you tap it to get it going it sounds like it's hardly turning and makes lots of noise.

-Kelly

 

[cranetruck]

What you need is one of these, it keeps a warning light on when the pump is running without the engine being "on".

Edit: And please, tell us how this resistor wired in, you are killing me (us?)..

 

[Boatcarpenter]

Have you checked to see if it sucked up a lot of junk that may have been in your tank? You can take the bottom apart, remove the shims and so forth and see what happens. It's a long shot, but cheaper than another pump.
You can see the pieces that will come out in the attached pic.

 

[cranetruck]

Yeah, and the motor is magnetically coupled to the impeller, so it's not easily damaged.

 

[FormerNewMVGuy]

TNJ murry were selling the pumps with the resistors in them,They are 12 volt pumps with a resistor!!! Made in korea or china....They are junk do not buy them!!!!!.........................Ask me how i know I had them send me a good take out and some other parts i needed in exchange for the junk 12 volt pump they tried to sell me.
BEWARE of these pumps, you will not be happy with the results

 

[crazyplowboy]

I found that out the hard way before finding the new pumps straight from the factory for less $.

 

[Banshee365]

What you need is one of these, it keeps a warning light on when the pump is running without the engine being "on".

Edit: And please, tell us how this resistor wired in, you are killing me (us?)..

If the low air buzzer was working it would have been obvious that the switch was still on. It's the first time I've left the switch on as I usually am very thorough in anything I do.

I thought I explained the resistor in the first post, "There is a resistor under the cap between the power lead and the pump which I installed from my old pump." The resistor is simply between the positive post on the power lead going into the cap and soldered to the fuse block on the other end. It, by it's self, connects the positive post to the fuse block. There is nothing else between the plug and pump lead than the fuse block and 5W 2ohm resistor. I had no idea what it was for but it was there when I got the truck so I figured it had a reason and got the same impression from others when I installed this pump new last year.The original pump with the truck was an original part, whether it was THE original I do not know. I'll post pictures of the resistor if anything would like.

 

[cranetruck]

Gotcha, thanks, I go out on a branch sometimes.

 

[dmetalmiki]

I agree with your concerns but I would NEVER have paid that momey for a pump. and I have modified my switching, see post in 5 ton up. with pics. the second isolater for the fuel pump is the little switch right next to the main master. arent you just a little curiouse to know WHY your truck started WITHOUT the pump running? hence my fitting the switches to every one of my trucks. mine run for 2 minutes MAX! low maint/cost etc!

 

[poppop]

If you are not concerned about orginality you could put an inline pump in. I think ODiron sells them. I have three trucks that the pumps don't work. Two start a little slow if not run for a while but run fine after started and the thrid always starts right up but does not like to idle for a few minutes until it gets the lines full again.

 

[Banshee365]

I agree with your concerns but I would NEVER have paid that momey for a pump. and I have modified my switching, see post in 5 ton up. with pics. the second isolater for the fuel pump is the little switch right next to the main master. arent you just a little curiouse to know WHY your truck started WITHOUT the pump running? hence my fitting the switches to every one of my trucks. mine run for 2 minutes MAX! low maint/cost etc!

Unfortunatly, even if my pump was on a seperate switch the same thing would have happened. I was sumping the primary filter bowl so I would have ran the pump and forgot it the same way. Olympic say's the pumps are tested to 2,000 hours so I'm not worried about rigging up different switch just for the pump. When I get some extra bucks I'm just going to order a new pump from olympic and know I'm getting a good product.

-Kelly

 

[Jinx]

Glad I found this thread. I replaced all three of my fuel filters yesterday and discovered my in-tank fuel pump is dead so the fuel lines won't prime. It sounds like Olympic is the best way to go to get a brand new pump.

And before anyone says it, yes I checked the fuse. It's good and there is power going to the pump. The pump is just dead.

 

[oifvet]

TNJ murry were selling the pumps with the resistors in them,They are 12 volt pumps with a resistor!!! Made in korea or china....They are junk do not buy them!!!!!.........................Ask me how i know I had them send me a good take out and some other parts i needed in exchange for the junk 12 volt pump they tried to sell me.
BEWARE of these pumps, you will not be happy with the results

Add me to this list. I bought two from TNJ Murray. Both smoked like a keg 'o powder.

I switched to the in-line pump from OD Iron.

Can't say if I'm happy with it or if it even works since I don't even know what my truck even looks like or where it may be.

But, that's another story.

 

[SasquatchSanta]

I don't feel the Carter "thumper" pumps have enough capacity to keep the IP pump adequately fed. If memory serves me properly, the book says 3 to 7 PSI of fuel pressure to the IP pre-pump is required for maximum power/performance.

I've got two fuel pressure gauges and have done tests with both the stock in-tank pump and the Carter Thumper pump. One of the fuell pressure gauges reads pressure before the primary fuel filter and one after. With the stock in-tank (Olympic) pump running the required 3 to 7 PSI fuel pressure is constantly maintained. With the Carter thumper pump the fuel pressure drops to zero when the engine is started. This tells me that the IP pre-pump requires more capacity than the Carter/Thumper pump is capable of supplying. Whether running like this will eventually damage the IP pump remains to be seen. I don't want to chance it.

 

[Jinx]

Called Olympic Controls today and talked to Dave. He was very helpful in identifying what numbers I need to get off the pump so he can match up an exact replacement. First impressions of there company are positive. I will look at my dead pump tonight and call him back tomorrow.

 

[tjcouch]

My inline pump http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/24993-fuel-pump.html#post258230

 

[Jinx]

Got my in tank pump installed yesterday and the truck was primed and started with no problems. Thank you Olympic Controls!

I love how easy these trucks are to work on, even if everything is oversized.