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injection pump question m35a2

Floridianson

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Interlachen Fl.
I was cracking open the injector lines to bleed air, some would make the engine stumble and drop rpm. Three i believe, had little effect.

This type of system should self clear the injectors with out cracking them but it does not hurt to try. Of course the cylinders that showed a drop in rpm is what we want to see. Did you by chance feel the exhaust ports right at the head when it was running to see if those cylinders not showing a drop were even getting hot?
 

Adrian A

New member
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Fresno Ca.
I have to thank you guys for being persistant. It was 180 out. I set it up thinking tdc was prior to #1 cylinder intake stroke. Not at the top of the #1 compression stroke. My engine theory is a little rusty I guess. Now I have a perfectly good rebuilt pump to show for my stupidity too. At least it runs now. The only problem now is that I need to throttle it to get it to start. Not sure what to do about that. Is there an adjustment?
 

m-35tom

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Supporting Vendor
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eldersburg maryland
Most IPs go to full fuel when they are not running, look under the fuel shutoff cover and see what the govenor is trying to do when it is off. Most diesels start better at full fuel, and just out of habit i always hold mine on the floor to crank it when it is cold. as it starts, release the pedal so it stays below 1000
 

silverstate55

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UT
I have to thank you guys for being persistant. It was 180 out. I set it up thinking tdc was prior to #1 cylinder intake stroke. Not at the top of the #1 compression stroke. My engine theory is a little rusty I guess. Now I have a perfectly good rebuilt pump to show for my stupidity too. At least it runs now. The only problem now is that I need to throttle it to get it to start. Not sure what to do about that. Is there an adjustment?
Don't feel bad, I did the exact same thing last summer when installing new O-rings on my IP & HH. In fact it seems that you are almost guaranteed to install the HH 180-degrees out of phase if you don't triple-check the #1 cylinder valves!

And you have a good spare, package it up safely and you might need it someday...better to have it & not need it than to need it and not have it...
 

Adrian A

New member
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Location
Fresno Ca.
To get this to start now, I have to hold it full throttle and crank it for about twenty seconds or so. When it fires up it will barely run at full throttle for about 30 seconds before it will idle. It runs fine once warm though. I have no idea what to do about this.
 

welldigger

Active member
2,602
15
38
Location
Benton LA
Have you pulled an injector to see how it fires? Especially on one of the cylinders that didn't seem to affect running when you cracked a line open.

3 of my injector lines are leaking (replacements inbound) and at near full throttle I can hear a tick in the exhaust where those cylinders aren't getting full pressure to the injectors.

If you pull one to see how it fires it should be a mist. Not a dribble, not a stream, a mist.
 

m-35tom

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
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Location
eldersburg maryland
To get this to start now, I have to hold it full throttle and crank it for about twenty seconds or so. When it fires up it will barely run at full throttle for about 30 seconds before it will idle. It runs fine once warm though. I have no idea what to do about this.
you have an air leak somewhere in the fuel supply and it is having to self bleed every time it starts after sitting. once it is running, shut it off and restart 30 seconds later. i bet it starts right up because there has not been enough time for the fuel to drain back.
 

Adrian A

New member
261
7
0
Location
Fresno Ca.
I fixed the fuel leaks and turned up the fuel just slightly. Man! This thing fires right up immediately and runs great! It still has no black smoke either. Thank you.
 
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