Waterhouse
Active member
- 158
- 161
- 43
- Location
- Marianna, fl
It would be nice if it would all stay stuck together and I could just spray some brake clean on the screen. I suppose I can’t get that lucky. Fingers crossed til tomorrow.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Injection pump screen
- Thread starter Waterhouse
- Start date
Waterhouse
Active member
- 158
- 161
- 43
- Location
- Marianna, fl
Well I give it a try today. That sucker is tight. I was able to get a crows foot wench on the fuel line, but I couldn’t get one on the cap because of all the injector lines. I had to put a 3/4” end wench on it straight out. Then an adjustable wench on that and twist. Obviously, not the best set up, but I still could put some serious torque on it and no joy.
I sprayed it good with pb blaster and tapped it with a hammer and bar. I will try again tomorrow.
Question, did you have to completely remove the Allen lock foot thing? I backed mine out more than an 1/8”. Doesn’t seem like it could interfere.
While I had the fuel line off, I stuck it in a bucket and cranked the engine. I believe they say a pint in 30 seconds. I only cranked mine for 5 seconds, but I have no doubt it will pump a pint in 30.
Second Question, would I be crazy to put compressed air to the overflow port and force the fuel in the pump back through the screen backwards? Seems like it might force the dirt out.
I sprayed it good with pb blaster and tapped it with a hammer and bar. I will try again tomorrow.
Question, did you have to completely remove the Allen lock foot thing? I backed mine out more than an 1/8”. Doesn’t seem like it could interfere.
While I had the fuel line off, I stuck it in a bucket and cranked the engine. I believe they say a pint in 30 seconds. I only cranked mine for 5 seconds, but I have no doubt it will pump a pint in 30.
Second Question, would I be crazy to put compressed air to the overflow port and force the fuel in the pump back through the screen backwards? Seems like it might force the dirt out.
- 6,930
- 9,584
- 113
- Location
- Papalote, TX
Yes I would remove the lock, it has teeth that are engaged in the cap.
I would not try to flow fuel backwards through the pump, there is probably check valves in the charge pump.
I would not try to flow fuel backwards through the pump, there is probably check valves in the charge pump.
Waterhouse
Active member
- 158
- 161
- 43
- Location
- Marianna, fl
So I removed the lock, but I don’t think it’s necessary. Then I tried to hit the serations with a punch. Didn’t move. Finally, I got a really strong 3/4” end wench and was able to stick a bar through the box end. I applied a lot of torque and it moved. I only turned it about a 1/4 turn, but I know it will come off. I didn’t want to remove it right now because it was getting dark and it was raining all day so there was a puddle in the engine V. Dropping little parts in there didn’t sound like a good idea. Im going on a three day weekend today, so it will have to wait till next week.
- 1,710
- 2,265
- 113
- Location
- Rosamond, CA
Waterhouse
Active member
- 158
- 161
- 43
- Location
- Marianna, fl
Tea, but it doesn’t have flats for a socket. You can’t get a wench on it correctly because of the injection lines. (Not even a crows foot) Engineers being engineers. (They don’t have to work on em)
Notice the dab of orange paint on the retaining screw? That's tamper evident paint. You're not supposed to be taking that part off the pump. Don't blame the engineers for this one.
Do take the injection lines off. The engineers made it easy. They come off in pairs.
Do take the injection lines off. The engineers made it easy. They come off in pairs.
- 6,930
- 9,584
- 113
- Location
- Papalote, TX
They were never meant to be dissembled on the engine, like I said that is just a last ditch effort for someone with nothing to loose
Waterhouse
Active member
- 158
- 161
- 43
- Location
- Marianna, fl
Any orange paint is long gone on mine. I don’t agree with “your not supposed to do something on something you own”. In this case, it doesn’t matter who does it, it would be simple to have made a hex there instead of two flats. To remove the whole pump or even a the injection lines is kind of silly to clean a screen. So yes, I blame the engineers.
Waterhouse
Active member
- 158
- 161
- 43
- Location
- Marianna, fl
So I removed the cap tonite and there was crud.
There was quite a bit more in the cap. Some of it I had to scrape out with a screwdriver. The through hole was very small. The screen did not come off of this part. It seemed to be quite fixed. Does it just pull off? Or must it turn? I’m kind of thinking of just leaving it. (I got it clean)
There was quite a bit more in the cap. Some of it I had to scrape out with a screwdriver. The through hole was very small. The screen did not come off of this part. It seemed to be quite fixed. Does it just pull off? Or must it turn? I’m kind of thinking of just leaving it. (I got it clean)
- 6,930
- 9,584
- 113
- Location
- Papalote, TX
It just pulls off, don't even mess with that filter get a new one.
Do you have a local diesel injection shop??
Do you have a local diesel injection shop??
Waterhouse
Active member
- 158
- 161
- 43
- Location
- Marianna, fl
Mine doesn’t pull off easy. It’s not a filter, it’s just a screen. I don’t see any reason to replace it. No, I don’t have a diesel shop near me. I’m sure there’s one in a town an hour north of me. (Haven’t checked)
- 6,930
- 9,584
- 113
- Location
- Papalote, TX
The reason it will not pull off easy is because the rubber end that seals against the part it is attached to has hardened, likely never seal again after you pull it off, ONE spec of crap gets into the inside of that screen and all the work was for nothing,
Mail order another screen if you have to, I would never consider re-using that screen, it is the last line of defense for your IP.
If you wash that screen from the outside you will VERY likely push crap through the screen, if you remove it to properly clean it, it will not seal correctly when put back on.
Mail order another screen if you have to, I would never consider re-using that screen, it is the last line of defense for your IP.
If you wash that screen from the outside you will VERY likely push crap through the screen, if you remove it to properly clean it, it will not seal correctly when put back on.
Waterhouse
Active member
- 158
- 161
- 43
- Location
- Marianna, fl
If I get this thing under it’s own power, I will likly install a complete rebuilt injection pump. I think they are only $500. If I knew I could get this running, I don’t mind dumping 5 grand in it. But I don’t know if I can get the hydraulics sorted out. If I can’t get it to work, I really don’t want to put money in it. So for now i plan to put this back clean and move on to the next issue.
Waterhouse
Active member
- 158
- 161
- 43
- Location
- Marianna, fl
Mogman, when you put this back together, does the roll pin go in a hole at the base? It obviously goes down the slot in the side of the pump in the first pic. The pin appears to be longer than the pump sleave Leading me to believe there’s a hole in the base. I think my pump has turned to cover the hole.
If there is a hole, is it tight on the roll pin? Like when you have it in the last pic, does it hold together?
Also is the hole in a particular location as compared to the lock screw. (9:00 if the lock screw is 12:00)
- 6,930
- 9,584
- 113
- Location
- Papalote, TX
It should fit up flush like the picture, I do not see how the pump could have turned.
It will not want to stay together at that angle, you may have to try and pass something through the fuel inlet fitting to hold it in place while screwing the cap on.
It will not want to stay together at that angle, you may have to try and pass something through the fuel inlet fitting to hold it in place while screwing the cap on.
- 6,930
- 9,584
- 113
- Location
- Papalote, TX
Let me go to the shop and look again