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Injection Pump swap. Lot's of pics

AceHigh

Well-known member
2,175
30
48
Location
Princeton WV Lake City FL
I did mine this past week also, great pictures by the way.

I did one thing differently, I took all the injector lines off at the injectors, and did the line swap on the bench. It worked out great for me. :driver:
 

lindyp38

New member
788
0
0
Location
ulster county ny
First step, get the tools ready. Also take note of the double nuts on the air cleaner. I strongly suggest doing this. Here's what can happen if you don't..The studs break from vibration at the base and then flop around and eventually work loose from the wing nuts and the guess where they end up ??? I was pretty pissed having to toss a perfectly good 6.2 in my 83 after it made it's way into the cylinder and destroyed the head, piston and cracked the cyl wall. Also I like a few shots of the motor before I take it apart in case I get Alzheimers mid project...:grin:
i will be doing this to my truck...asap.....thanks for the tip......
 

acesneights1

Member
1,449
21
20
Location
CT
I did mine this past week also, great pictures by the way.

I did one thing differently, I took all the injector lines off at the injectors, and did the line swap on the bench. It worked out great for me. :driver:
I usually remove the lines as it would be hard IMO to clock them properly otherwise and they should have little to no tension on them when re installed. They have a coating on the inside and should not be bent or twisted. I ended up leaving the front two sets on when I yanked the pump last night for the third time but I'll get into that later....aua
 

acesneights1

Member
1,449
21
20
Location
CT
It would be more work to do that. It would require removing all the accessoruies, draining the coolant etc etc. Yanking the IP was faster and easier.
 

K9Vic

Active member
1,261
7
38
Location
Fort Worth, TX
Good job and good to see someone covering the intake holes on the block and intake when removing it. I see the right tools as well like the crows feet. This is a great post for reference to anyone wanting to know how to do this.

I have done two IP pumps and the second time was much easier than the first time.
 
408
0
16
Location
Colo.
So is it the consensus that it is easier to remove the IP with the lines disconnected from the injectors rather than from the pump side? Also, where does that plunger go?
 

BIG_RED

New member
385
0
0
Location
Winnipeg, Manitoba
First step, get the tools ready. Also take note of the double nuts on the air cleaner. I strongly suggest doing this. Here's what can happen if you don't..The studs break from vibration at the base and then flop around and eventually work loose from the wing nuts and the guess where they end up ??? I was pretty pissed having to toss a perfectly good 6.2 in my 83 after it made it's way into the cylinder and destroyed the head, piston and cracked the cyl wall. Also I like a few shots of the motor before I take it apart in case I get Alzheimers mid project...:grin:
I've got nylon Locknuts on top of the wingnuts for the same reason. Good Idea! (also, so the air cleaner doesn't undo itself.. My threads are worn and my wingnuts would loosen and the air cleaner would flap around, causing dirty air to get in at the bottom. I also thoroughly grease the air filters, top and bottom - and the seal where the air filter housing meets the air intake. I drive on gravel a lot, my air cleaners get gross. I don't want that junk in my engine.)
 
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