IP problem with my new Deuce...need advice

[Floridianson]

When the rod is in the full vertical position that is max fuel delivery.

Well just to keep things straight the 6 oclock or vertical is not the full fuel pisition. As you can see the shut off pisition for shut down or no fuel is about 4 oclock. Most trucks when running and tweeked will go the about the 7 oclock pisition but that is still not max fuel pisition the sleave can reach. The most we are able to get is about the 8 oclock pisition when the main fuel adjustment nut is run all the way in so the wedge bottoms out and the smoke cam angle is changed. That would be the maxium we can take the fuel control as it hits the retaining screw for the fuel control rod.

 

[acesneights1]

It does sound something is screwy. He may have removed the lever and not put it back correctly. Is there any evidence the the lever has been removed? Scratches on the nut?

That is exactly what think. If you look in the TM is shows a tabbed washer under the nut that holds the arm . The TM is very specific about that. Mine does not. I believe the idiot took the arm off and put it back on wrong. The problem is now I have no reference of where to clock it as the TM shows either 87 deg or 90 deg depending on which IP I have and now that he screwed with it I cannot identify the fuel control group as that was the only way..
Where can I buy parts for the IP ? The TM says the Fuel control group is replaceable so maybe I should just replace it ??
Who seels parts for the IP's ?
I need the tabbed washer, the packing seal,the clevis clip.
I would prefer at this point to just buy a whole new fuel control group.
How critical is the geometry of the arm on the fuel control group ? IN other words if I am a spline tooth off when I re clock it what will happen ?
I don't see that scenario covered in the TM but I will look harder.

 

[acesneights1]

Well just to keep things straight the 6 oclock or vertical is not the full fuel pisition. As you can see the shut off pisition for shut down or no fuel is about 4 oclock. Most trucks when running and tweeked will go the about the 7 oclock pisition but that is still not max fuel pisition the sleave can reach. The most we are able to get is about the 8 oclock pisition when the main fuel adjustment nut is run all the way in so the wedge bottoms out and the smoke cam angle is changed. That would be the maxium we can take the fuel control as it hits the retaining screw for the fuel control rod.

Ok, so how do I know where to clock the arm if I try to put it back on right ? I assume it is splined right ?

 

[Floridianson]

PM sent

 

[Warthog]

I may have a spare control rod assembly. I will check tomorrow.

 

[acesneights1]

I may have a spare control rod assembly. I will check tomorrow.

Thanks warthog. I have one on the way from a fellow member.
Now for the 50$ question...according to the TM there are 3 different ones. ONe is tabbed and obvious but the other two are near identical except one is clocked 87 deg from the horizontal plane and the other is clocked 90 deg from the horizontal plane. Is this critical ? How can I identify which one I need if it is since I can no longer look at my old since it has been messed with ???

 

[welldigger]

Well just to keep things straight the 6 oclock or vertical is not the full fuel pisition. As you can see the shut off pisition for shut down or no fuel is about 4 oclock. Most trucks when running and tweeked will go the about the 7 oclock pisition but that is still not max fuel pisition the sleave can reach. The most we are able to get is about the 8 oclock pisition when the main fuel adjustment nut is run all the way in so the wedge bottoms out and the smoke cam angle is changed. That would be the maxium we can take the fuel control as it hits the retaining screw for the fuel control rod.

Right. I realize this. I'm over simplifying things.

 

[Floridianson]

Is yours a LDT motor code E pump as that is what the fuel control is off of I will be sending. Hydralic Head 90100A

 

[acesneights1]

Is yours a LDT motor code E pump as that is what the fuel control is off of I will be sending. Hydralic Head 90100A

Yes. I was just trying to figure that out. It is exactly that. Awesome..I owe you bigtime !!!

 

[acesneights1]

It's probably hard to read here on the forum but I blew it up.
It is HD 90100A
The last number almost looks like an 8 but I blew it up and it is a zero.

 

[acesneights1]

I forgot to mention one thing..The T pin CAN fall out in the IP. I was very lucky and fished it out with small telescoping magnet that fit through the fuel control rod hole.

 

[davo727]

Somebody up there ought to have a good pump reasonable??

 

[whiskey357]

Glad you know what to do I just took mine to a deisl mech...know how to drive ...Fix it not so good...lots of good ideas on this one...

 

[acesneights1]

well.....Thanks to everyone especially Warthog and Floridisian for offer me parts. I was able to realign the existing fuel control assmbly and got it started. That was the problem with the runaway/no start however the damage to the engine is done.
It was missing and knocking very badly. Had excessive crank case pressure and antifeeze was running down from where the head meets the block in a few spots. I will put up video later. At this point I may dismantle the truck for parts. I have to really think about it...

 

[acesneights1]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ucjLcSTsCA&feature=youtu.be

 

[acesneights1]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gU1BcqHefAs&feature=youtu.be

 

[cattlerepairman]

IMHO it would be a shame to dismantle an otherwise good truck for parts. I understand that the joy of ownership is somewhat tainted right now. Even if you do not want to mess with that engine anymore (for example, because after this, you just would not trust it anymore), consider pulling the engine and parting the engine out. A known good IP is a few hundred bucks, starter, turbo, alternator, heads all have a price. Rest is scrap (and it weighs quite a bit).
Use the money towards a re-power. Same LDT if you go budget. LDS for a bit more power (keep bell housing and oil pan from the old engine...read the conversion threads). Fix the clutch while the engine is out (you would have had to pull the tranny anyway). You can get a "known" good engine from trustworthy individuals on this site for reasonable money.

 

[acesneights1]

Was toying with a 6bt/545 conversion.
The tranny in this thing is not overly impressive, I wonder if a 6bt with an NV4500 would work ??
It is a clean truck.

 

[acesneights1]

I suppose these motors are not worth doing an inframe right ? I was gonna maybe drop the pan tommorow and see if I can get an idea of the carnage. It did not sound good but if the crank is ok maybe I could drop a slug in it.

 

[Floridianson]

You need to get away for a rest in Sunny Florida so bring a trailer that can carrie a Deuce motor and come see me.

To recap for those that have been watching this thread the owner before Kenny messed up big time. He took the control assembely out of the HH and then he took off the nut the holds the lever to the shaft on the control. The pin that is on a correct assembely faces forward and is 87* to the lever. When the outher owner put it back together he had the pin faceing rearward so the control collor was working backwards. Stop or shut down was then high idle and froward control was shut down. So even if he pulled the shutdown cable as we do incase of a runaway it would only go higher rpm. Sorry Kenny but you taught us something I have never seen.