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Just picked up my first m1008

87cr250r

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Anyways, the truck is in great shape. I got a smoking deal on it. So far, there are a few important problems. It doesn't start cold. I'm pretty sure this is glow plug related or glow plug controller related. I'll get to diagnosing it this week. Next, it wont hold 4-low. I've got a pretty good understanding about how transfer cases work and have a feeling why this is happening. Not a big deal yet, this truck is going to daily drive for me for the winter and I don't need 4-low on the highway. Third, the exhaust noise at 55mph is incredible. I know people run h-pipes to combat the resonance at certain engine speeds on gas engines. Has anybody done this on a diesel yet? I may try it and let you guys know the results but I may not need to do it if I put bigger tires on and drop the cruise rpm a few hundred.

But, my biggest problem is a significant shake at 40ish mph. I mean we're talking the whole body of the truck twisting 2-3 inches on each side. It's either got to be a really out of balance tire or some worn out front-end components. So, my question is, if I want to buy front end parts for this truck, what does it cross-reference as? Do 1986 Chevy K30 front end parts fit our M1008 CUCV's? I'm going to be looking for outer tie-rod ends and possibly ball joints for the Dana 60 front.
 

Cucvnut

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Death wobble is not fun its pretty crazy to experience the first time. you can order new king pin springs and bushings for it from ORD its about 30 bucks for parts and shipping and takes about an hour and a half to do
 

87cr250r

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Kingpin? I'm pretty good with mechanical things (I am a mechanic of sorts for a living). But, this is my first 4wd truck. A kingpin might make sense. Visually, the left front has a little bit more positive camber than the right front which is why I'm targeting that area. I tried to twist the tire top to bottom but didn't get much. I seemed to get a little in and out movement which might explain a kingpin problem. I didn't get much time with daylight and the jack to really investigate. I'm just probing your knowledge to make my job easier. So ORD has them for cheap? Who is ORD?
 

Oldsouthernboy

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If you are going to do king pins work go ahead and do the ball joints, tie rod ends, drag link and service the bearings and new seals, check the brakes also. Due to the weight of the engine you can not do a tire shake and check for bad ball joints, K20 parts will fit. May cost a bit more but you will have front end that know is good for while. You have 25 years of use and abuse to check for and may have to correct. I know I did that om M1009 and it made a world of difference with a complete front end and 100% brake job. I drive mine daily about 65 mile round trip and I am not afraid to take good trip with it.
 

OLDCHEV4X4

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If you are going to do king pins work go ahead and do the ball joints, tie rod ends, drag link and service the bearings and new seals, check the brakes also. Due to the weight of the engine you can not do a tire shake and check for bad ball joints, K20 parts will fit. May cost a bit more but you will have front end that know is good for while. You have 25 years of use and abuse to check for and may have to correct. I know I did that om M1009 and it made a world of difference with a complete front end and 100% brake job. I drive mine daily about 65 mile round trip and I am not afraid to take good trip with it.
M1008's dont have ball joints. Check all the steering components for slop. It they are bad, replace them, if not, grease them.
 

rnd-motorsports

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:ditto: oldsouthernboy on the M1008 the kingpins are what your M1009 has as balljoints the dana 60 is built to be stronger and use kingpins in place of the ball joints. At least in any you will find in the M series trucks. :driver:
 

87cr250r

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So the total damage, I've got one sacked out king pin on the left side, $40. One sloppy outer tie rod end on the passenger side for $59. And, the hydro booster got a little oil on one of the front leaf spring bushins and that is toast. So $25 for that. I'll get the tie rod end done this weekend. I have to order the other parts.

Looks like the starting issue is the glow plugs and not the relay like I had hoped. I'm going to throw a set of 8 at the engine, price pending.

Still haven't bothered to trace down the pin hole in the radiator yet, I really should get that sealed so I can confirm I don't have any head gasket issues... or worse.

And tires. So these trucks only have a 6.5 inch wide rim? I'm looking toss some 285/75R16's on there but they're a little wide for the 6.5? Maybe I should stick with 255/85R16's? I trying to make at least 33 inch for the freeway cruise speed.

Anyways, I'm really excited about this truck. I picked it up for $1600 and it actually seems to be in pretty good shape. It even has a new, tastefully done interior though carpet and upholstered seats don't combine well with off-road.
 

WARWAG

Active member
With a (COLD) engine and radiator. Take off you pressure cap and pour in some pepper. about a teaspoon or so (place cap back on). The start your truck and let her warm up. wait awhile and see if you still have a leak. If you do add some more pepper (again COLD engine). Tey not to use a bunch of radiator stop leak. You just clog up your tubes and your truck will over heat on hot days. The pepper is just a quick fix until you get it to a radiator shop or replace it. ALL of the stop leaks are tempoary measures.
 

2deuce

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portland, oregon
Are you sure nobody swapped out that dana 60? That is a good price. I've seen a few for sale with the original replaced. 255/85/16's are 32". I would bypass that resistor and then add the glow plugs. At least make sure the connectors at the plugs are good. If one is bad you can lose them all.
 

87cr250r

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The truck is pretty much untouched and still has the 60 up front.

As for the radiator. I will solder the hole once I find it. It only steams on cold mornings though and I'm supposed to be at work in the morning so I'll have to wait for the weekend to chase down the leak.

I'm kind of leaning on the 24 volt glow plugs. They're expensive, though. $25 a pop for Delphi plugs. I'll see what the 12v units cost and make the decision tomorrow.
 

87cr250r

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Rodeo, Ca
Help, huh. Have you any interest and the tools required to help someone do a tie rod end and possibly a king pin? I'll bring the beer.

I am a mechanic for a living and know my way around a wrench but 4wd if a completely new subject for me. I've always done my off-road on 2 wheels. I really wanted one of these in a bad kind of way after seeing one get thrashed at Hollister Hills. I'm looking at making a kind of tight budget adventure vehicle out of it. You know, practical enough to daily drive but able to get you out in the cuts for some camping and trail driving.

I'm thinking I'm going to head to Castroville to get some tires on Saturday. If you want to take a look at it I don't mind making a stop.
 
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87cr250r

Well-known member
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Location
Rodeo, Ca
Got the right outer tie rod end done, that fixed the death wobble. Adjusted the transfer case linkage. And threw some new tires on it and the thing was ready for the trails.




 
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