Just won an auction - M1088A1

[aw113sgte]

Yep. The only thing I would add is that it is MUCH easier with a slide hammer bead breaker:

Amazon.com

One of these helped so much, although I think mine had a chinesium spring that busted on the 4th wheel.
I'd really recommend a 3/4 impact as well. My 1/2" DeWalt broke an impact socket and struggled a bit.

 

[williamh]

Yep. The only thing I would add is that it is MUCH easier with a slide hammer bead breaker:

Amazon.com

if you want to do a “workout” while changing tires I would suggest a duct bill hammer.

 

[ckouba]

Yeah, with that slide hammer bead breaker and a Milwaukee 18v impact gun I was able to change out all 5 tires on my truck solo with zero former experience.

I would also recommend getting a 6 ft section of 3/4" pipe from Home Depot or Lowes and cutting it in half to use to help guide/lift the wheel back on to the lugs.

View attachment 942058

Yes, ^ this!!!!

Makes it a LOT easier to line stuff up to get a wheel back on.

 

[dwlindsey]

As mentioned earlier, I don't have the truck yet. GovPlanet is "reviewing your EUC".

Meanwhile I'm looking at the pictures in the inspection report and I see a bit of rust on some metal that seems to be around the oil pan. I don't know what that is that is rusted. I'd appreciate any knowledge about it.

 

[dwlindsey]

And there's an oil leak by the turbo. Am I looking at a ndw gasket? Or a new turbo?

 

[Ronmar]

Well in the first pic, that doesn’t look like rust on the hose support plate(trans cooling hoses), it looks like an oil leak and accumulated dust/dirt. Since that is under and to the rear of the turbo, they may be related…

could be a turbo drain gasket in pic 2. Need to get the truck and clean it off to try and find the source or sources…

 

[dwlindsey]

it looks like an oil leak and accumulated dust/dirt. Since that is under and to the rear of the turbo, they may be related…

Need to get the truck and clean it off to try and find the source or sources…

Thanks! That's helpful. I'm anxious to get the truck and get started. It'll be a fun project . . . until it isn't . . .

The inspection report from GovPlanet says it runs, builds oil pressure and air pressure . . . so that's something. Now if all the oil blows out a leak or two . . .

I didn't find the support plate in the TMs, but if it's not rusted out . . . I likely don't need a new one . . . maybe something more serious with the engine.

 

[aw113sgte]

Agree with Ronmar. The location of the oil leak needs to be found and fixed at some point but I don't see a rust concern-at least from these pictures.

 

[dwlindsey]

Well . . . when I won the auction, the GovPlanet website said that EUC approval would take "up to 12 weeks"

It was approved today, 9 days after the auction.

Now I need to pick it up on or about March 26. Anyone have any tips or tricks? Preferred transporter companies?

Dwight

 

[aghumvee]

My dad and I have driven home many military auction trucks over the past 15 years.

Your M1088 looks like one I would drive home after:
Inspection to make sure driveline not bent, parts missing, etc..
2 New front tires/wheels put on
4 new batteries
Check all fluids/top off
Test drive close to site in case you have to have it hauled. (When GL/GP sold on bases, it was easy to test them since we would spend an hour driving around base before hitting the interstates.)

We always took spare fluids, fuel, spare tires, tow straps, etc and had a truck we could pull auction truck to the nearest exit instead of the side if it wasnt a backroad.

The fun part of an auction win was driving it back home!

 

[dwlindsey]

I'm going to need to get it transported. The brakes are reported to be weak and the exterior lights don't work

 

[serpico760]

If you got your CAD model from something like turbosquid you may have to resize the whole model. I've had two different models from them one of a Peterbilt and one of something else and all of them had been rescaled like 8% smaller or something like that

 

[dwlindsey]

Thanks for that. We'll measure the truck when we get it and confirm the dimensions, rescaling as necessary. How did such a CAD model get made? Did someone manually measure the truck and create it? Or an original CAD model leaked from somewhere?

 

[dwlindsey]

My truck arrived today. I'm very excited and pleased. It runs!

I can't tilt the cab up . . . the cab latch (lock?) doesn't release. I'll have a 1-3/4 socket on Monday . . .

 

[GeneralDisorder]

My truck arrived today. I'm very excited and pleased. It runs!

I can't tilt the cab up . . . the cab latch (lock?) doesn't release. I'll have a 1-3/4 socket on Monday . . .

Step one is to fill the air-operated pump at the back of the cab. It takes MIL-PRF-5606 Aviation "RED" hydraulic fluid. Make sure it's full. Any airport will have this.

You will probably have to rebuild the latch and the air pump. Once you get the latch working and refill the fluid level though you should be able to lift the cab with the backup hand pump.

When you attempt to lift the cab do you hear the pump or have you only tried the hand pump?

 

[Ronmar]

If you are using the hand pump, fill both it and the AOP reservoir. Hand pump has a allen filler plug rear outboard corner. Replace the plug when full, as it must pull a vac to draw fluid from the reservoir. The hand pump does not contain enough fluid to lift the cab fully by itself so relies on the main AOP reservoir to provide makeup fluid…

 

[aw113sgte]

If you are using the hand pump, fill both it and the AOP reservoir. Hand pump has a allen filler plug rear outboard corner. Replace the plug when full, as it must pull a vac to draw fluid from the reservoir. The hand pump does not contain enough fluid to lift the cab fully by itself so relies on the main AOP reservoir to provide makeup fluid…

Yes it does, mine will lift the cab no problem as well as lower the tire. I'm running the stock unit-vented. No aop installed.

 

[dwlindsey]

When I use the air operated hydraulic pump, the cab lifts up and strains against the cab lock.

Thanks for the tips. I'll get it sorted eventually. I've ordered the hydraulic fluid.

Meanwhile, I'm removing metal that I won't need, the deck, etc. There are a LOT of bolts. Really a LOT of bolts!

 

[GeneralDisorder]

When I use the air operated hydraulic pump, the cab lifts up and strains against the cab lock.

Thanks for the tips. I'll get it sorted eventually. I've ordered the hydraulic fluid.

Meanwhile, I'm removing metal that I won't need, the deck, etc. There are a LOT of bolts. Really a LOT of bolts!

We have lots of cute sayings in the Army.

"Ain't no kill like overkill"

 

[Ronmar]

Yes it does, mine will lift the cab no problem as well as lower the tire. I'm running the stock unit-vented. No aop installed.

Ok, well the stock hand pump is 4x4x3.5 outer dimensions, but it is perhaps 1/8” wall thickness and radiused corners a square 3.75x3.75x3.25 is 45.7 cu/in minus ~2.5” for the radiused corners leaves ~43cu/in when full… and the fluid draw cannot draw every drop of that fluid so there will always be a little unusable in the reservoir of any system, and I did not consider any plumbing protruding into the reservoir to pickup fluid… so perhaps somewhere in the 42cu/in of fluid available…

the cylinder is 2”X ~14” stroke so 3.14sq/in X 14 = ~44cu/in required. Plus that absorbed by the cab latch piston when pressurizing the system, and I have never calculated that. Probably not much more than a cu/in though… so y0u have ~42 available but you need ~45?

Tire lift isn’t an issue because it is the rod end with far less volume Required. But the cab lift is just over available if everything is perfect….

the only way I see this working is if your rod end seals, control valve seals and pump piston rod seals are perfectly tight enough that the rod end of the piston is able to suck enough fluid back into the rod end of the cab cylinder when lowering to provide the makeup fluid to just get your cab raised. Most hydraulic valves, rod ends and hand pump shafts are designed to hold pressure in and do not withstand vacuum very well and will suck air when the system goes under vacuum like the rod end of the circuit does when lowering the cab via gravity… you will know when yours starts to do this as you will get the rod end fluid back after the lift because it is pushed, but it will be unable to suck it back when you lower, so that fluid + the fluid returning from the cylinder base and latch will start to overflow at the reservoir. Now that this fluid is gone, you will not have enough to reach orbit as the rod end didn’t draw that fluid back for the next lift…

helped someone troubleshoot a problem like this and the math didn’t work then either we came to the conclusion that the stock reservoir was just a hair too small for reliable operation when you consider no vacuum fluid movement which is normal. I think I suggested to him to screw a hose barb into the vent port and run it to a secondary reservoir to give enough volume to work reliably without relying on vacuum/seals in the pressure side of the system…