Just won Hyster E40XL-MIL on GL

[pclausen]

I went and picked up an automatic wheeled 6/12V charger yesterday to go with the little bench-top model. I figured one of these would be more handy around the farm than just getting a used 36V charger dedicated to the forklift. It is micro processor controlled and features 2, 20 and 60 AMP charging modes. It also features a desulfation mode and a 275 AMP engine start mode (although that would have to be very optimistic rating I would think given the 4 GA leads and so-so connecting clamps).


http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hysterbatt-10-5-01.JPG

I started with the 6V 60 AMP mode, but I could hear it bubbling the acid in the 3 cells, and after a while I got the CHARGING ABORTED BAD BATTERY message. I then started over in the 20 AMP mode which is what it recommended for deep cycle batteries anyway. It ran all night (checked it around midnight and it was at 68%). Checked again this morning and low and behold, it had switched to maintenance mode and indicated the battery was fully charged!


http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hysterbatt-10-5-02.JPG

After removing the clamps, I put the Fluke on each of the 3 cells, and they all measured exactly the same, namely 2.044 V.


http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hysterbatt-10-5-03.JPG

So a little shy of the 2.180 V that you mentioned Isaac, but I'm optimistic that this battery will have some life left in it. I got the wheeled charger working on the 2nd 6V set of cells now and the little guy working on the 3rd.

I also lifted out the metal floor boards and was able to determine that there indeed are only 3 valves connected to the 2 control knobs, and the "disconnected" feel in the 2nd position of the 2nd knob is how it should be. Also, no leaks under there either. That drive motor is a monster! I think it is rated at 25 hp and the hydraulic motor at 5 hp.

 

[PowerstrokeNC]

After removing the clamps, I put the Fluke on each of the 3 cells, and they all measured exactly the same, namely 2.044 V.

Ideally you want the batteries to 'rest' a while before taking the reading on the cells, right after the charger is disconnected the cells will usually read higher. I think waiting 30 - 60 mins then taking another reading will give you a more true value.

 

[DJones]

View attachment 518065

You look just like a GL employee in this pic.

 

[pclausen]

Ideally you want the batteries to 'rest' a while before taking the reading on the cells, right after the charger is disconnected the cells will usually read higher. I think waiting 30 - 60 mins then taking another reading will give you a more true value.

I just checked it again (10 hours later) and they are at 2.020 V. So they settled a little.

Switched back to the 60 AMP mode and am doing 6 cells at once now at 12 V. So far so good. I'm showing over 36 V now on the main plug. Just for grins, I plugged it in and the "fuel gauge" went to 100%, and then turned the "ignition" on and tried the levers, but I just get a "click" sound from somewhere towards the back of the machine. I'm guessing with more than half the cells not holding decent charges yet, there's not enough current to start the hydraulic motor and some safety relay prevents it from even trying.

 

[pclausen]

View attachment 518065

You look just like a GL employee in this pic.

Lol yep. That's how they loaded the forklift onto my trailer.

 

[m16ty]

I also lifted out the metal floor boards and was able to determine that there indeed are only 3 valves connected to the 2 control knobs, and the "disconnected" feel in the 2nd position of the 2nd knob is how it should be. Also, no leaks under there either. That drive motor is a monster! I think it is rated at 25 hp and the hydraulic motor at 5 hp.

The other valve that not doing anything is for another hyd function that your forklift doesn't have. Some forklift attachments require another valve and that's what it's for (fork positioners, clamp, etc).

 

[Isaac-1]

The 3 most common fork lift levers from left to right are, lift, tilt, and side shift. It is common for forklifts that do not have a side shift mechanism to still have the 3rd lever.

 

[pclausen]

This fork lift has 2 levers, when you hold either lever to the left, it engages one function, and when held to the right, another. So I have lift, tilt and side shift, so I don't have rotate or clamp or whatever the 4th position may be used for. Still working on getting all the cells charged up. Had to bail this afternoon as it started to rain. Might go back out in a little while and rig up a tarp and keep going. At this point I got 9 cells fully charged, so I'm half way there.

 

[pclausen]

Now working on charging the 5th group of 3 cells. Just one more to go!

It has been raining on and off, so I threw a tarp over the charger and batteries so that I could keep going.


http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hystertarp.JPG

Still just clicks when attempting any functions. I sure hope that once the final group of 3 cells is charged, the magic will begin.

 

[PowerstrokeNC]

Now working on charging the 5th group of 3 cells. Just one more to go!

It has been raining on and off, so I threw a tarp over the charger and batteries so that I could keep going.



Still just clicks when attempting any functions. I sure hope that once the final group of 3 cells is charged, the magic will begin.

coming along nicely.... how are you going to get it off the trailer ?

 

[pclausen]

Well, assuming it becomes operational once the batteries are restored, I'm going to try backing the trailer up to one of the bays of my shop and use a pair of 10,000 lbs aluminum ramps with some supports and attempt to drive it off. I haven't yet determined if the angles are going to be gentle enough the prevent it from being high centered leaving the trailer or making the transition to the shop floor.

 

[Isaac-1]

Even if it is not high centerred I suspect the motors and brakes will not be able to control it well at that angle and should rig a safety line, the angle on the dovetail for that trailer looks to be about double the angle that a typical electric forklift can handle.

 

[pclausen]

Wow, had no idea these things were that picky about ingress in egress angles. I'll be sure to rig something up.

I think with the angle towards the apron to the shop doors, it might work out ok.


http://www.cstone.net/~dk/polebarn-9.jpg

 

[m16ty]

I'd hook a winch to it and winch it off. Those things don't have a great amount of traction and even if the brakes can hold it, it will more than likely slide off the ramps. Using the gearing to hold it back won't work either.

Please be careful. We don't want to see the next post from your widow saying the forklift fell off the ramps and landed on you.

 

[pclausen]

Thanks. Yes, I'll take my time and use extra care. Might still just get a rollback to come assist me. I'm not sure the center plate that drops down on the trailer will be strong enough to hold the weight. I'll need to look at what support is under it. The fork lift is actually too narrow to use the actual ramps, it fits in between them.

Still got one more 3 pack of cells to charge. I took the rear cover off, and the relays and such all look in excellent condition and all the fuses are good.


http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-8-01.jpg

So with the "ignition" key on, should the hydraulic motor be running all the time, or only when I turn the steering wheel, or engage one of the levers? I know the drive motor of course only comes on when pressing to go pedal. I've been searching for manuals for this thing, but the only ones I have found I have to pay for. No free .pdf files to download. Some manufacturers have manuals available for download, but I guess not Hyster. Also didn't see any on the liberated manuals website.

 

[Isaac-1]

In general most electric forklifts should be nearly silent with the key in the on position and no action being done (just the tick of the hour meter should be heard)

 

[leedawg]

I have a couple of clark ES-90 electric forklifts. There is not sound when they are on until you select forward or reverse then it starts the power steering hydraulic pump which continues to run until you select neutral position again. Id imagine the hyster is the same way when you push that pedal for forward the power steering motor will probably kick in and continue to run for a set amount of time when there is no action on the pedal. That is how the clarks are set up motor runs for another 30 seconds in neutral then shuts off.

Cross your fingers there is nothing wrong with the circuit board that controls the entire truck. That was what was wrong with both of the clarks that I got. Both of them I had to replace the control boards on then everything worked great on them after that. The control board for this machine looks identical to what is in my clark forklifts and I noticed you have the GE speed controller in your forklift as well that is the thing that says EV1000 on it. The logic board is in the top right corner of your picture with the wiring harnesses going into it. The multicolored harness has all the leads that control fwd,rev, and the hours and batt level to the meter at your controls as well as the on off signals for the ignition and what have you.

Good luck its been fun reading your posts about this machine.

I just had another though in closing make sure there is absolutly no water on that logic board before you power it up. It might not be a bad idea to unbolt it from the back wall its connected to and pull it out of the black plastic case and make sure it is totally dry and there is no corosion on the board that will allow current to move through traces it should not. I had one that had a good board and then after a light rain some water got in there and fried the logic board when I plugged it into the battery and I had to end up replacing that one too. The boards are not cheap a refurb set me back about 500 bucks. Tag the 6 wires that go to the screw terminals so you remember where they need to go back and the other three connectors just unplug and can be plugged right back in where you unplugged them from. If you do end up taking that board out when you put it back put a bead of silicon around the the black plastic where it meets the metal plate that it is bolted as well as on the other side where the two screws hold the plastic cover over the end to seal it up from moisture.

 

[liftman]

After looking at the control panel, your truck has contactor hydraulics. That is shown by the contactor on the right, somewhat empty side of the control panel. The hydraulic motor should not run unless you move a lever, which closes a switch to close the contactor and activate the motor.

Hopefully my attempt at attaching a file has given you a manual for description and operation of the EV100 control panel.

 

[pclausen]

Thanks guys! Working on charging the final set of 3 cells now. I have found through trial and error that work seems to work best is to start out on the 60 AMP setting until it fails/times out, then switch to the 20 AMP setting and let it fail/time out. Then do another session at 20 AMP, and that seems to bring those cells all the way to 100%.

So far I have not attempted to hit the forward pedal, only played with the levers. So perhaps that is the trigger to get the power steering motor going, which will in turn make the other hydraulic functions work?

That said, based on what liftman just stated, perhaps that is not the case? Anyway, I'll verify the control board is dry. The back cover was sealed on there pretty good, and the inside looked very dry. p.s. the file came through just fine. Thanks!

 

[Isaac-1]

Most electric forklifts also contain a safety switch under the seat to make sure someone is sitting on it when the levers are activated, these safety switches are prone to failure.