LBCD replacement due to loose studs. CARNAGE!!

[Ronmar]

Something like this is an option to modify the existing mount. You have to cut a notch for the rear alt tab, and a spacer for the front, and do a little relief grinding on 2 of the ribs. You also need to fab a strut for the top mount tab over to the engine. With the mount out of the truck, about 10 minutes with a porta-band and a die grinder…

Your Neihoff could also probably be fitted with a different regulator and converted to straight 28V. I was going to play with this if my reg ever has an issue or I came into a bad 100A alt at the right price for me to experiment with…

 

[MatthewWBailey]

Something like this is an option to modify the existing mount. You have to cut a notch for the rear alt tab, and a spacer for the front, and do a little relief grinding on 2 of the ribs. You also need to fab a strut for the top mount tab over to the engine. With the mount out of the truck, about 10 minutes with a porta-band and a die grinder…

Your Neihoff could also probably be fitted with a different regulator and converted to straight 28V. I was going to play with this if my reg ever has an issue or I came into a bad 100A alt at the right price for me to experiment with…

View attachment 916040

This is nice. Brackets look manageable. The 150 I have looks like that and has a 2 belt pulley. But My truck is an a1 with the serpentine pulley. At first glance I don't think the serpentine pulley fits on that generic alternator. I'm wondering if that's a minor or major fitment issue. The neihoff is a 11/16" shaft and the 150 alt is a 5/8. I love my lathe so theres that.

 

[MatthewWBailey]

That’s a bummer man. I have an extra LMTV alternator bracket you’re welcome to if you need a foundation to fab up a custom mount. Also I’d be interested in buying your neihoffs off you if you’re giving up on them.

I'll let you know if I commit to this route. At least with a cots alternator I can get service if I'm stuck somewhere. Plus the generic one is 150A at 24v. I have 3 extra neihoff units (I think): the 260, 300 and a 28v 570A unit I was going to use as an off grid gen. The 570 idea may get scrapped bc I discovered the 48v 100a alts used in the larger John Deere golf course zero turn mowers are better suited to off grid inverters. I have one of those too, looks like a regular lite truck alternator but is 4800W !! (You can see I like heavy copper things. Theyre Like gold but no one knows about it. My uncle made me strip scrap wire from electric jobs all summer in HS. Never lost money on copper, land, guns or backhoes).

 

[Ronmar]

The cogen project I participated in, we were working with a 24V Leece and our reg was pushing it up to 48V. Way more efficient operation that way…

 

[Lostchain]

Something like this is an option to modify the existing mount. You have to cut a notch for the rear alt tab, and a spacer for the front, and do a little relief grinding on 2 of the ribs. You also need to fab a strut for the top mount tab over to the engine. With the mount out of the truck, about 10 minutes with a porta-band and a die grinder…

Your Neihoff could also probably be fitted with a different regulator and converted to straight 28V. I was going to play with this if my reg ever has an issue or I came into a bad 100A alt at the right price for me to experiment with…

View attachment 916040

I think that is an A0 mount. Here is the A1 that looks like it might not need much tweaking to take that alternator…

 

[hike]

I think that is an A0 mount. Here is the A1 that looks like it might not need much tweaking to take that alternator…

View attachment 916116

That's just what we have on our A1–

 

[GeneralDisorder]

The 260 mount is different. The upper bolt threads into the alternator ear which is behind the (thinner) mount ear.

 

[hike]

As installed on our A1 with the Niehoff 100a dual alternator–

 

[MatthewWBailey]

I think that is an A0 mount. Here is the A1 that looks like it might not need much tweaking to take that alternator…

View attachment 916116

That looks like mine. I'm getting motivated.

 

[Lostchain]

That looks like mine. I'm getting motivated.

Question for you guys, If I had some alternator mounts manufactured that took a COTS 24V alternator and fit the stock location, would people be interested in it? Would it also be desirable to add a pad to mount a 24 to 12V convertor so that the whole package sat in the stock location and made use of the stock wiring back to the batteries ?

 

[MatthewWBailey]

Something like this is an option to modify the existing mount. You have to cut a notch for the rear alt tab, and a spacer for the front, and do a little relief grinding on 2 of the ribs. You also need to fab a strut for the top mount tab over to the engine. With the mount out of the truck, about 10 minutes with a porta-band and a die grinder…

Your Neihoff could also probably be fitted with a different regulator and converted to straight 28V. I was going to play with this if my reg ever has an issue or I came into a bad 100A alt at the right price for me to experiment with…

View attachment 916040

You probably answered this many times, but is there any benefit to going with the pad mounted alternator? After taking off the neihoff bracket, it seems like I'm looking at a cat engine that's meant to take a cat alternator.

 

[Ronmar]

only if you could get one at a lower cost than a tabbed alt. not sure if you still wouldn't need a adapter plate to hang a pad mount alt. lots of pics of OEM 3116/3126 engines with alts to look at online, but most of those also incorporate a upper fan mount bracket and I think the pad mount alts interface with that. we are kind of an odd application with the fan driven directly off the crank...

 

[hike]

You probably answered this many times, but is there any benefit to going with the pad mounted alternator? After taking off the neihoff bracket, it seems like I'm looking at a cat engine that's meant to take a cat alternator.

Measuring the bolt layout and depth of that CAT bracket underneath, it is too narrow, (7-1/2' x 5-1/4") and shallow for a direct pad mount. At least for the 24v 200a pad mounts I explored. None of which were significantly less expensive. A search of CAT 3126b engine images found both pad and j180 mounts, none without some form of adaptor atop that bracket.

With a fixed three point j180 mount, allowing the spring pulley to tension the serpentine belt, the alternator appears fixed as well as a pad mount. Of course, I'd rather four bolts to three, though three fixed against a spring pulley are much better than 3 with one holding tension in a slip slot bracket—

 

[MatthewWBailey]

only if you could get one at a lower cost than a tabbed alt. not sure if you still wouldn't need a adapter plate to hang a pad mount alt. lots of pics of OEM 3116/3126 engines with alts to look at online, but most of those also incorporate a upper fan mount bracket and I think the pad mount alts interface with that. we are kind of an odd application with the fan driven directly off the crank...

I found this one fairly affordable but not 100% on the bolt holes. It would need to be spaced away from the block anyway to clear the intake.

https://www.rareelectrical.com/i-26...c11-c15-c27-c32-272-1889-3524032-20r0053.html

then there's this delco unit that'll fit the 4-1/4" bolt pattern but it's only a 110A. And I'll probably need a shorter serpentine belt. This one's on eBay for $170.

https://www.delcoremy.com/alternators/find-by-model-family/28si

 

[MatthewWBailey]

Measuring the bolt layout and depth of that CAT bracket underneath, it is too narrow, (7-1/2' x 5-1/4") and shallow for a direct pad mount. At least for the 24v 200a pad mounts I explored. None of which were significantly less expensive. A search of CAT 3126b engine images found both pad and j180 mounts, none without some form of adaptor atop that bracket.

With a fixed three point j180 mount, allowing the spring pulley to tension the serpentine belt, the alternator appears fixed as well as a pad mount. Of course, I'd rather four bolts to three, though three fixed against a spring pulley are much better than 3 with one holding tension in a slip slot bracket—

I'm going to give a stab at the deco Remy 28SI unit first. $170 with 1yr warranty. 24v 110A with remote sense. Bolt pattern from literature matches the inner set of holes on the pad mount. As you said, Those bigger units don't fit in that space so probably why they went to tabbed style mount. My existing cat 150a alt was pricy and is betrothed to the cat 963 loader. I don't have any power needs beyond the engine and simple reliable operation. At least if it breaks down on the road, it's as common as dirt to replace.

 

[hike]

I'm going to give a stab at the deco Remy 28SI unit first. $170 with 1yr warranty. 24v 110A with remote sense. Bolt pattern from literature matches the inner set of holes on the pad mount. As you said, Those bigger units don't fit in that space so probably why they went to tabbed style mount. My existing cat 150a alt was pricy and is betrothed to the cat 963 loader. I don't have any power needs beyond the engine and simple reliable operation. At least if it breaks down on the road, it's as common as dirt to replace.

I measured the outside bolts, perhaps the insides are 4-1/2". CAT specs more like a 65a for these engines, the smaller footprint may slide right in?

 

[MatthewWBailey]

I measured the outside bolts, perhaps the insides are 4-1/2". CAT specs more like a 65a for these engines, the smaller footprint may slide right in?

We will see. It's a fun hobby at the very least and It'll be good info for everyone if it does work. Beats driving an Ev