LDT-465 rebuild

[wb1895]

I am looking at rebuilding the LDT in my deuce as soon as it warms up some. As she sits now she has ALOT of blowby several leaks, and most of the hoses are swollen. I have started getting NOS parts to get ready for the build.

So far I have acquired the following parts

New piston sleeves w/ pistons, rings, oil squirters, and wrist pins

New rod bearings

New Main bearings

New Valve guides

All Gaskets

New hoses

All new filters

And a guy that is gonna magnaflux the heads when I get them off.

Is there anything else that I will need?


Second, After I complete the rebuild is there a "break in" procedure I should follow? I did search the TM's but was unable to locate anything about breaking in a motor.

 

[DieselBob]

Here is the TM version. From TM 9-2815-210-34-2-2 Pg 6 - 41

 

[ATPTac]

Make sure you let me know before you start it, I'd love to come help.

 

[wb1895]

Make sure you let me know before you start it, I'd love to come help.

I don't have a date yet, but I am gonna wait until it is a little warmer so my butt wont freeze into the mud. As soon as I get a date I would be glad to have you come up. I might even provide the frosty malt beverages

 

[clinto]

I'd buy a new cam and lifters.

You obviously will have the crank checked and turned/polished if necessary.

I'd have the reciprocating assy. balanced.

I've never paid attention to the multifuel harmonic balancer, but if it's like everything else and has a rubber ring holding the two halves together, that can dry out and the balancer can fail.

You need to clean the block properly. I'd let a machine shop vat it. Prep it properly so you can put some high quality paint on it.

If you haven't done the clutch before, consider it. It's a lot easier to do it now than when it's under the truck.

Paint the engine compartment while the engine is out. This is also the time to rebuild the steering box.

 

[truck1]

There was a seller in the classifieds that had a NOS crate motor ready to drop in for sale. Looked very clean and well maintained.

 

[DieselBob]

I know one thing I would put on my list of components to replace if possible would be the rod bolts. I remember there being a post about someone trying to get them made but I don't remember the outcome. I would defiantly have the rods magnafluxed and as Clinto indicated having the rotating assembly balanced. Might give some thought to setting up a pre-lube system.

 

[welldigger]

New rod bolts wouldn't hurt either.

 

[truck1]

Here you go http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...he-can-with-take-out-Deuce-(A2)-Transfer-Case

 

[clinto]

I forgot the rod bolts. I am so used to sending rods out to have them "rebuilt" (resized, rod bolts replaced, etc.). You may find buying new rod bolts to be difficult enough that buying new rods is a better bet (but let your machine shop balance them obviously).

In terms of breaking it in, if it has moly rings, the rings don't really require break-in, but the cam and lifters do. You need to cover the cam lobes and lifters with a molybdenum assy. lube and when you start the engine, run it at something like 1500-2000 rpms in order to "spin" the lifters in their bores and get a proper wear pattern from the get-go. I'm having to guess at the rpm's since I've built plenty of gas engines but never rebuilt a diesel.

 

[welldigger]

Hercules sells the upgraded rod bolts. But if you can find new rod assemblies for a reasonable price that wouldn't be a bad idea either.

 

[ATPTac]

There was a seller in the classifieds that had a NOS crate motor ready to drop in for sale. Looked very clean and well maintained.

I saw that the other day, I wish I had the money for it... Hope to never need it, but it'd be nice to have on hand. Or for doing a full frame up restore.

 

[wb1895]

I was planning on doing a "in the truck" rebuild. I do not have a way to remove the motor, so I planned on rebuilding in place. Not the best way to get it done, but that is what I have to work with. Oh, and I am a VERY poor guy and am doing the best with what I have.

 

[ATPTac]

Oh c'mon Walter, we can muscle that engine out of there! They only weigh, what, 1800lbs? I actually do have access to a 2 or 4 ton (can't remember which) cherry picker, but I'm pretty confident it won't go high enough to get it out... Unless someone else can weigh in who has used one?

 

[welldigger]

Find some I beam chunks at a scrapyard and build a gantry. Just an idea.

 

[wb1895]

Really I would love to pull the motor and work on it like that, BUT I am poor and can barely afford the parts I already have.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Once you pull the radiator and take the rims/tires off, the truck doesn't need a lift with THAT much reach.

 

[wb1895]

Once you pull the radiator and take the rims/tires off, the truck doesn't need a lift with THAT much reach.

Chris I know we have never actually met in person but how long do you think my arms are????

 

[ATPTac]

Once you pull the radiator and take the rims/tires off, the truck doesn't need a lift with THAT much reach.

Do you think a normal cherry picker with a heavy enough load rating could pull the motor?

If so, I can see what I can come up with as far as getting one to take up there if you want... Or if you just want to do an in frame rebuild that works too. Just trying to give you options.

 

[clinto]

I do not have a way to remove the motor

You have to be creative:



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