Leaking fuel? - bellhousing/oil filter area - new electric fuel pump

[dom1986ck30]

ALOHA, I just noticed a clear fluid leaking from the bell housing/oil filter area. Please notice picture attached. In the picture, I cleaned it before I took picture, there is a steady leak at the bolt closest to the oil filter. Also, there is a leak at the seam area of the oil filter. have heard that the fuel pump could possibly ruin your motor... True? I did recently put a new electric fuel pump. Replaced the old. It was already an electric conversion. I am wondering if the new one is pushing too much fuel and it is somehow going into internal, hence a fuel leak at the bell housing? The fluid is clear, smells a little like diesel. Does not make sense to me. I checked for leaks above. IP area. The "Valley". NO LEAKS...Happy for that but it doesn't resolve my dilemma. So when I idle in driveway it is dripping this fluid. Any input will be appreciated. Mahalo.

 

[cucvrus]

It could be coming from the injection pump area. There is a drain hole in the rear of the upper block valley that drains into the back of the block and under the bottom fly wheel cover. Fluid leaks are hard to find but always look up stream and work from there. Remove the fly wheel cover and see if the bottom of that is wet. Then look up in the valley under the intake. Good Luck. Report back.

 

[Chaski]

Another place it could be coming from is one of the drivers side rear injector return hoses. A leak there could find its way onto the oil filter and work its way down.

Sometimes electric pumps can be the source of problems.

 

[dom1986ck30]

Okay, mahalo. Just curious as to when I pull fly wheel cover... what I might be looking for. The seam at that location is leaking. Wonder if a lot of fluid has built up in there. Only one way to find out. Like I said, the valley is dry. Hmmm... I'll report back soon. Mahalo again.

 

[dom1986ck30]

If electric pump is the source, then I need to regulate it. It had an electric prior to new one. I changed it 2 months ago. If that. Coinkydinky?

 

[dom1986ck30]

I am going to look,again at that location for a leak. At rear injection hose. On the drivers side. Makes a litttle sense, since it is leaking at seam of filter... oil filter. Mahalo

 

[firefox]

At one point I installed an electric pump as a backup system and read that I should
bypass the fuel line connections at the mechanical pump since this would avoid a problem with fuel forced into the non operational mechanical pump. I don't remember why this was supposed to be bad. You might check if your mechanical pump was bypassed or not.
Maybe someone else remembers what the issue was or if it is pertanent to your problem.

 

[Hasdrubal]

My leak was on the passenger side at the rear of valve cover where the steel fuel line from lift pump goes to a rubber line that attaches to Fuel filter. It was hard to spot, line had gotten old and cracked.

 

[scottladdy]

At one point I installed an electric pump as a backup system and read that I should
bypass the fuel line connections at the mechanical pump since this would avoid a problem with fuel forced into the non operational mechanical pump. I don't remember why this was supposed to be bad. You might check if your mechanical pump was bypassed or not.
Maybe someone else remembers what the issue was or if it is pertanent to your problem.

My understanding of the concern is that if the diaphragm in the mechanical pump fails/ruptures you can dump diesel fairly quickly into your crankcase. Not really possible if only using the mechanical pump since it would no longer pump if that was broken.

 

[scottladdy]

My leak was on the passenger side at the rear of valve cover where the steel fuel line from lift pump goes to a rubber line that attaches to Fuel filter. It was hard to spot, line had gotten old and cracked.

Depending on where the actual leak is in the section of line you mention, it could run as you saw, or if closer to the intake could also run down the valley drain and exit on the drivers side.

 

[firefox]

Scottladdy:
"My understanding of the concern is that if the diaphragm in the mechanical pump fails/ruptures you can dump diesel fairly quickly into your crankcase. Not really possible if only using the mechanical pump since it would no longer pump if that was broken."

The issue came up when converting to the electric pump. Based on what you said, I guess the concern was that if the diaphragm was broken, then the electric pump would pour fuel into the crankcase. Does this make sense?

 

[dom1986ck30]

Aloha, Yeah... kind of makes sense. I have a brand new mechanical pump. Like I said, it was running off an electric since I got it. I replaced it. It does bypass the mechanical now. So the question and concern now is that if it is the culprit to the leaking down near the bell housing. I am, as we speak (type), under the truck now. I have removed the crankcase cover and doing further inspection to find this darn leak. I have looked from above and all is dry. Valley and all. I have checked all hoses, fuel hoses, from glow plug to glow plug. Wonder if it is bad to run while cover is off... hmmm. Mahalo for all input.

 

[scottladdy]

Scottladdy:
"My understanding of the concern is that if the diaphragm in the mechanical pump fails/ruptures you can dump diesel fairly quickly into your crankcase. Not really possible if only using the mechanical pump since it would no longer pump if that was broken."

The issue came up when converting to the electric pump. Based on what you said, I guess the concern was that if the diaphragm was broken, then the electric pump would pour fuel into the crankcase. Does this make sense?

Exactly how I understand the concern.

 

[dom1986ck30]

There wasn't really any fluid coming out of the crankcase... I think this is exterior of that now and above... Still looking... I'll let let everyone know

 

[scottladdy]

There wasn't really any fluid coming out of the crankcase... I think this is exterior of that now and above... Still looking... I'll let let everyone know

Remember, no smoking while you are in there

 

[dom1986ck30]

Okay All... Please see attached pics. I stand corrected. There is fluid in the valley. Must have been a combination of it drying before I got there to look and parking on a hill where I live. I posted (3) pics so one can understand the location. It is under the VRV Valve. VRV Valve is new. I am pretty sure that it is not the culprit. If you look in the 3rd pic, there is an adjusting screw that push/rests against a pin/rod that goes into IP (Injection Pump). I tried to capture, with many pics, a picture with the drop hitting the diesel so you could get an exact location of drip. 4th pic, is one that I cropped. Hope it helps. Left and right blue lines depict the edge of "Diesel River" in "The Valley". You still following me? I am, from all my readings on this great site/forum, am coming to the conclusion that I am to pull IP and rebuild. No problem. I just don't like fixing items in my mechanical ventures when it doesn't need to be. Hoping for just a seal job at this location. I am sure that by the time I get to the point of further diagnosis, I will simply replace whole IP. So... If there are any suggestions and pointers out there... Come on in, "The Water Is Just Right", for an adventure in "The Valley!!!" Might run into "Spiders!!!" Aloha...

 

[dom1986ck30]

Oh Yeah, I noticed in the diagnosis that there is some other fluid behind starter... "Freeze Plug." Just great!!!

 

[scottladdy]

If you don't know how old the IP is, then suggest you get it rebuilt. There are a number of improvements that have been made in 32 +/- years and issues have been cleared up.

I have used Badger diesel in WI with satisfactory results.

 

[dom1986ck30]

I am noticing that rebuild versus new is just a couple bucks difference. I am hearing $300 average for rebuild, and it is $500 new. Hmmm... Do I really want to salvage old part even though old is better?

 

[dougco1]

If you go to pull the pump, check the flared ends of the injection lines first. I had the same issue as you and found three of the lines were cracked at the flares. They have been known to do this from years of vibration and/or being overtighten. If that's the case good luck as to finding new lines for they don't make them anymore. And also be careful not to bend the lines while removing or installing them as it may compromise the internal glass lining.