Ilikemtb999
Active member
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- Denver, CO
I'm still running my stock front drive shaft. I've only got a 2" lift over stock though so unsure on with a 4" lift.
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
That is why I don't generally buy a complete lift kit, it makes the rear of the truck really higher than I like. As to cutting the blocks, maybe, it is according to the way they are made, if welded steel, no big deal just cut it up and have it welded back together, cast iron I wouldn't mess with just make new ones.Hello everybody,
I'm asking your help again because I have an extra problem with my lift kit.
Unfortunately 4 inch is a little to tall for my garage, didn't expect that... Could'nt believe how stupid I was, but anyway I have to solve the problem.
I'm not to concerned about the front, but I'll have a problem with the back of the truck.
Would it be possible to cut the blocks from 4" to 3" , without making them weak ?
BUT what about the shocks ? They are made for 4" lift will they work normally or this is not advised ?
Also wanted to ask, Is it bad (for the look but especially for the ride and reliability) to have 1 inch more in the front than in the back ?
Actually the suspension is made for a gas engine, so I guess I won't have a real 4 inch in the front because the engine is heavier.
The difference between front and rear will probably less that 1" but I'm wondering if it's very commun to have a non "equilibrate" car...
Thanks already for your help.
Nathan
I hope it deters people without basic logical abilities from attempting the simple task of lifting a leaf sprung vehicle with live axles.I hope this small post will help some other novices like me...
Dear Sir,I hope it deters people without basic logical abilities from attempting the simple task of lifting a leaf sprung vehicle with live axles.
Also, it's against better knowledge that I reply to these posts, as they reek of "I have nothing better to do than waste my and others' time by pretending to install a lift kit".
Posting just a picture of ANYTHING related to this might sway me a little. Better yet, a photo of the boarding pass(es). And, no, even though it would be perfectly natural for normal people to take photos while on a trip abroad, in this case a photo from the USA would only confirm my suspicion that this is where you live.
As it is, I have a hard time believing that you managed to take two international flights if you indeed are as stupid as you are trying to sound.
On a positive note, your posts are getting easier to read as you seem to forget to misspell words more frequently now.
Hi,They have angle finder apps for smart phones. Without pictures I cannot give suggestions.
Your need to adjust the steering linkage from the pitman arm to the knuckle. It's at the drivers wheel well. It's easy to figure out.
Cant help on the brackets for the brake lines. I use extended lines instead of bandaid brackets.
The line on the diff is the diff vent. You could easily just replace the hose......none of this is rocket science.
I wish I had time to play along with your little game, which I did for a while, before realizing what you're (most likely) doing.Dear Sir, As I can see, you have a lot of imagination and a lot of time to waste.
But let me tell you something ; you can believe me or not, insult me or not, Honestly I don't care at all !
I can imagine you in front of your computer, old - little - frustrated man who has nothing else to do than imagine funny stories about forums, people and cars. It's quiet funny actually and you make me smile ; Thank you for that.
But for the other people who wants to learn something here, I'm not so sure about your relevance.
I'm very sorry for all of you ! Hopefully this will be solved soon.
Thanks for defending! HAHAEnough ...
fwiw, his ip address is Belgium.
Your driveshaft absolutely MUST be lengthened.
Hi,Your driveshaft absolutely MUST be lengthened.
I worked at a driveline service and built driveshafts all day long.
Go take a seal to center measurement and contact a local or online driveline company.
(Measure directly from the seal surface on the output of the transfer case in a direct line to the center of the u-joint cup on the pinion yoke of the rear differential while the truck is level.)
This is the number you will give to the driveshaft builder.
Tell them you have an NP208 transfer case and a GM corp 10 bolt 8.5 rear differential with a 3R pinion yoke.
They can do the rest.
Do not take your driveshaft to the shop without this number or without the truck.. it makes us crazy. Also do not measure with a piece of string.. Just a real number from a tape measure Thankyou.
Do NOT take that truck off road until you do.
What can happen ,in your case, is you hit a bump and the slip yoke comes out of the housing and off the splines and ends up slapping the ground or even acting like a pogo stick.
Just drive like a grandma if you have to until you fix that.
Besides, your u-joints are the original factory glued 3R and probably dry as dust inside along with the factory weights; this driveshaft has never been rebalanced.
Now you have changed the angles on them drastically and from experience, they will die shortly.
Get that driveshaft lengthened, u-joints replaced and rebalanced.
The front driveshaft is most likely okay because they began at a lesser angle stock and the lift doesn't affect them as much and they have a CV on the t-case end, but hey.. might not be a bad idea to remove it also and have it checked out.
Those brake line brackets are worthless.
Go here; http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/braidedbrakelines.htm
and buy some extended lines.
Hard to tell in the pictures but your pinion angle looks okay.
I'd say you got the blocks in the right way around.
By the way; on that driveshaft, if you decide to build a new one there are 1350 slip yokes and 1350 end yokes and 1350 pinion yokes available that hold a stronger u-joint capable of more angle before it binds.
The 3R u-joint you have there is fine but if you are spending the money and planning to wheel this rig hard, might as well spend the money once, yes?
As for the "play in the steering" after a lift.. Yep, Normal.
Hi again,That yoke is dangling out quite far. Almost looks like the pinion angle is a touch pointed down but doesn't look horrible. Plus with those tall blocks you'll have a bunch of axle wrap so it'll probably get fairly equal. I've never dealt with relocation brackets. I gave you a source for cheap extended front lines.