Lift kit for M1009

[Chaski]

Hi Guys,

I got my rear driveshaft back ; I'll put it back on monday, I realy hope this will solve the vibrations issues.
I choose to do a combination of two methods. I'll lower 0.5 inch my t-case and made my driveshaft a little longer... Let's cross the fingers now.

I had to remove the yoke on rear differential ; is there somthing particular to know when you put it back ?
Does anybody knows which torque it needs ?

Already thanks
Nathan

Take some time to read the TM on your rear axle.

If your axle has a crush sleeve (95% sure it does) the torque applied to the pinion nut sets the pinion bearing preload. Too little or too much preload = failure.

 

[Bighorn]

To do it properly, you need to replace the crush sleeve and reset pinion preload.
This requires a fixture to hold the pinion yoke, a very long bar for leverage on your pinion nut ratchet, and an inch pound torque wrench.
Or you can just zip the pinion nut back on blind.
Just don't over torque it.
Of course, that could be your whole vibration issue right there..

 

[nathus]

Woow !!
I didn’t understand anything...
What is a crush sleeve ?
What is a preload ?

I tough that I had just to put the wahser and put 150 ftlb. And go out for a ride ��

pictures or video ?

 

[nathus]

I’m afraid to do it wrong now...

 

[rsh4364]

The longest thread I have read on this site and learned absolutely nothing. Sorry.

 

[nathus]

Actually i searched in the Manuel and didn’t find anty information about the yoke replacement.
Nor the differantial preload...

help help help

 

[nathus]

You can’t imagine how usefull that post is...thank you !

Thanks to the other ones who are happy to learn thanks to other posts and happy to teach in this one to me and peuple with less experience

 

[Bighorn]

A worn out or loose pinion bearing or improper pinion preload could easily cause a vibration similar to the one you are describing.
It would be a shame to do all the work and still have an issue.
Here goes;
Behind the pinion yoke there is a tapered roller bearing.
There is also a tapered roller bearing directly behind the pinion gear head.
These bearings face each other across a gap.
Within that gap is a crush sleeve.
The crush sleeve is a piece of metal tubing designed to yield in length when the pinion nut is tightened but retain enough tension on the bearings to somewhat account for wear over time.

If you simply ignore these facts and tighten the pinion nut, you may get lucky and everything will be fine.
But you may also end up over torquing the pinion nut causing the crush sleeve to collapse and giving the pinion bearings too much preload leading to premature failure and.. vibration once again.

To properly do the job you are attempting requires;
A new crush sleeve for a GM 10 8.5 bolt axle.
An inch lb torque wrench and adapters to fit your pinion nut socket.
A long extension such as a piece of pipe to use on your breaker bar for leverage to even begin to tighten a new crush sleeve.
A fixture to hold the pinion yoke while you tighten the nut with the 6 foot extension.

Additionally you really should have a differential case spreader and have removed the diff carrier so when you measure pinion preload, you get an accurate reading.

Just youtube differential preload.
It really is the simplest axle you can work with.
But to do it right, that pinion preload is first and most critical.

Or you can ignore all that and just zip the pinion nut back on and hope for the best.

 

[Bighorn]

Okay, had a few beers.
Here you go Nathus with the Wyoming shade tree mechanic solution to your problem;
Everyone offended by plain common sense should buzz off now.

Nathus.
Put the yoke onto the pinion splines.
Put the washer on.
Thread the pinion nut on finger tight.
Pull out on the yoke while zipping the air impact and tightening the pinion nut until zero clearance is established.
The yoke no longer wiggles or slides.
Now.
Jack up the truck and remove both wheels.
Grab the pinion yoke and rotate it.
Does it move smoothly?
Does it feel smooth and rotate freely?
Does it bind or feel crunchy?

If it feels good.. take your air impact and with wheels off still.. give the pinion one final 1/2 second blast.
Reinstall the wheels and drive shaft.
Go enjoy your truck.

If you still have vibration, so be it.
Probably because you followed the advice of a half drunk dude on the internet in Wyoming.

Good luck.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

I’ve read of guys doing basically that plus red lock tight. Otherwise they do make shim kits with washers that replace the crush sleeve (at least for 12 bolts they do). Takes forever to set up but once done you can torque it down without issue of crushing the sleeve anymore. Theoretically you could measure the crush sleeve and just match it with the spacer kit and should be good.

 

[Bighorn]

Unless you have pre existing pinion bearing conditions such as; noise, vibration, and roughness,
I hereby declare you FREE to torque that pinion nut; one. Last. Time.
(Can i use two semi-colons in the same sentence?).
Yes.
And.
Yes.
No to red locktite.
It is already a locknut.
It does not or should not be prone to move upon the threads.
Yes, I have replaced many hundreds of pinion seals by using the half drunk Wyoming shade tree mechanic method detailed above.
Zero of them came back.
The operating principal being;
Pinion bearings wear into their races quickly at first; slowly over time.
By the time any of you Neandertals get your hands on them, they are done with initial wear.
Take the yoke off.
Replace the seal.
Re-install the yoke to zero clearance.
Give it one little blast.
A blip.
A half heartbeat.
On the impact.

Done.

 

[Bighorn]

Guys.
It is a piece of metal tubing.
The crush sleeve.
It is not an intergalactic transdimensional interface.
It's sole pupose is to eliminate slop and provide tension for the opposed pinion bearings in their races.
Yes, when brand new components are used, it is important.
After 100k miles or 75 billion km or whatever..
It does not matter o much.
Do you know how much effort it takes to compress a crush sleeve?
I do.
A 6 foot bar is an understatement.
Just take up the slack and blip it once more.
You will be eating hamburgers and slurping milkshakes with your honey in the mv in no time.
If the pinion nut doesnt self livk.. bust out a crowbar and open your wallet for a new one.

 

[nathus]

Guys.
It is a piece of metal tubing.
The crush sleeve.
It is not an intergalactic transdimensional interface.
It's sole pupose is to eliminate slop and provide tension for the opposed pinion bearings in their races.
Yes, when brand new components are used, it is important.
After 100k miles or 75 billion km or whatever..
It does not matter o much.
Do you know how much effort it takes to compress a crush sleeve?
I do.
A 6 foot bar is an understatement.
Just take up the slack and blip it once more.
You will be eating hamburgers and slurping milkshakes with your honey in the mv in no time.
If the pinion nut doesnt self livk.. bust out a crowbar and open your wallet for a new one.

I love the way you’re explaining !
« had feew beers » hahaha

You’re right, because I did a lot of things in that truck, I want to do things right and don’t want to add a new problem.
If I still have vibrations now, I wont be able to tell if it’s from the driveshaft or the diff.
Obvouisly i prefer the second method. Order a crush sleeve means « import it » what means : pay it 3 times the original price and wait 2 extra weeks.
And don’t have the other instruments you were talking a out. I only have the torque wrench...

I can try the air choc method but it’s quiet approximative...
Mine can give two times more or less than yours...
Have you any idea about the torque it should be more or less ?

Pfff i’m depressed, if I had known that this was that specific I would never remove that nut. Or at least mark how tighten it was.
Over tightened can totaly destroy the differential or not that much?
What happens if I ruine the crush sleeve, will I even notice it before driving the truck ?

 

[Chaski]

If you care to read the TM find....
TM 9-2320-289-34

go to section 6-7


I know there are varying opinions of how important correct preload is. Personally I like some assurance that what I just repaired will last a while. Hence I tend to stick to known methods and don’t rely on “blips of an impact gun”.

 

[nathus]

Thanks a lot for the picture ; I'll double check but mine is named : maintenance manual and couldn't find this page.

 

[ridenby]

Use one of these. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/yga-55048/overview/

 

[peglegwillie]

Watched a video from busted knuckle garage on a 79’ k5 suspension lift with 14 ff /Dana 60’ front. Very informative and cost a lot less !!!

 

[peglegwillie]

Again I need to take advice better from others experiences. After calculating cost plus amount of work required Rough country lift looks a lot better all around !!!

 

[Bighorn]

Again I need to take advice better from others experiences. After calculating cost plus amount of work required Rough country lift looks a lot better all around !!!

No.

Off Road Design.
Here.

If you want a cheap lift for show, look elsewhere.
If your intent is to improve articulation for wheeling, look at ORD.

 

[Bighorn]

I am using the ORD 3" lift kit.
They specd out a 4" shackle reversal due to my keeping the top on the back.
Up front are the Tuff country 3" heavy duty springs due to the 6.2
I live in the least restrictive state in the nation when it comes to firearms and land use.
I wheel all summer here in Wyoming.
As soon as i can, i will pull my rig to the shop over the snow and apply the lift.
62" of snow right now.
It is ridiculous.
But the sun will win.
I just painted all the brackets today. FLAT BLACK, naturally.
Just waiting until the Thiokol snowcat can manage to pull the m1009 the 3 miles over the snow to my container building/shop.
How much for this kit?
$1600
Front springs.
Rear shackle reversal brackets.
Greaseable bolts and spring bushings.
Sway bar disconnect.
Tuff country shocks.
Extended brake lines.
Steering box brace.
4" drop Pitman arm.
Improved front shackles.

Give ORD a call.