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Im new to this, but my question is, are the locking hubs for the M35's worth the money, (in fuel saving's) and wear on the bearings in the front end. :stir pot:.
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Putting a single lockout on one of your rear hubs will keep the 2 axles from fighting to go in a straight line. To make a turn without a hub, one of the 4 pairs of duels has to slip.Im new to this, but my question is, are the locking hubs for the M35's worth the money, (in fuel saving's) and wear on the bearings in the front end.
Russ81’s answer is right on the money for the first 2 questions.Excuse the dumb question, but I would like a little clarification for us noobs.
Here's the way I understand it. Lockout hubs on a 4x4 truck usually let the front tires freewheel unless the truck is in 4x4. My dad's 1991 Ford truck requires you to exit the truck and lock the hubs manually. When they are locked, this makes both front wheels to turn at the same speed. (right?)
Do the locking hubs on a deuce keep the two front wheels turning the same speed all the time, or just when the truck is in 6x6 mode?
Is it okay to drive a truck with locked front hubs on the pavement? Seems like you would want unlocked hubs on the pavement to get better grip. This is why 4x4 trucks let you unlock the hubs.
I seem to recall a SS brother that had a line on some ARB lockers for the 2.5 ton rockwell axles awhile back. You may want to search the forum for the thread. I think the ARB would be the way to go.Is there a way to lock the front differential to prevent slipping of either tire when climbing up a steep hill or driving through mud? I'd think equal speed between tires would create the best traction offroad.
I don't mean to be argumentative, but this is just not true. No modern 4WD vehicles (at least that I'm aware) of have different gear ratios front/rear. Sometimes it's not possible to match gear ratios exactly if you're putting two different types of axles under a vehicle, and a few % difference is acceptable, especially if its an off-road truck. I don't think any of the Pro 4 CORR trucks even run different gear ratios front/rear, although I'm not sure about that. I have several Toyota trucks that I run in 4WD full-time for thousands of miles without any problems. Some vehicles aren't tolerate that, but it's not because of the gear ratios.One other thing that has not been mentioned.
Today's modern 4x4's use a different gear set for the front and rear differential. The front axle uses a faster (numerically smaller) gear set to "pull." This aids in steering. If you had a faster gear in the back you would be "pushing" the front end causing your steering to wonder more. This does have a significant draw back. Going on pavement causes your drive line to "load up" making your tires chirp relieving the built up pressure. That is why it is recomended to only use four wheel drive on surfaces that allow slipping, and to not stay engauged at high speeds.
Case in point. A guy I work with's wife drove his truck from Ohio to Arizona in four wheel high running an average of 80 mph. So far he has completely rebuilt the entire front axle (most of the parts were BLUE....this means the parts were at least 400 degrees), last week he had to have the transmission and transfer case both rebuilt, and he had to have all new seals installed in the rear axle.
Unless you are driving in a straight line, and at low speeds, you HAVE to allow at least 3 of the tires to spin at a different rate at different times or else you are wearing parts. That is why when you get a 2 wheel drive truck or a car stuck in the mud you only get 1 wheel drive. And, it is never the wheel you need to spin. Remember, PATH OF LEAST RESISTANCE. What ever is free to spin, will.
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