Low hour M803A Fuel leak, Cover suggestion

[4WD]

Just received a 4hr M803 circa 2011. Couple of issues need advise on.

Is there a thread here dealing with fuel return line replacement I could be pointed to. This leaks through the line fabric cover at the bend immediate to return rail manifold. The fabric return line runs a long ways before going into the enclosure holding fuel tank. Haven't actually started unit, just powered up with new batteries and prime pump a couple times and noticed fuel leaking down on floor pan from this line. Have to ground before running but see this is a problem.

Anyone know of a decent not too expensive fabric/vinyl cover to protect gen unit from weather. See some mil contractors have specs on same tyvek type item but no actual one for sale to fit this size.

Thanks,

Eric

 

[Light in the Dark]

The fuel return is easy. The line consists of what you see, plus some 1/8" vacuum tees up at the injectors, and small lengths of line. Check out this thread: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-80x-fuel-return-line.166040/

I use the Gates safety stripe in my return line replacements.

 

[glcaines]

I had an upholstery shop make me a cover for another piece of equipment I had. The cost for sewing was minimal - the fabric was the most expensive.

 

[4WD]

The fuel return is easy. The line consists of what you see, plus some 1/8" vacuum tees up at the injectors, and small lengths of line. Check out this thread: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-80x-fuel-return-line.166040/

I use the Gates safety stripe in my return line replacements.

Do you know what the psi this return operates at?

 

[Light in the Dark]

I don't... but its a rather low pressure line.

 

[Guyfang]

All those fuel lines are low, low PSI. Don't worry about it.

 

[4WD]

So to do this line replace am I correct to assume;

1. The back side of fuel tank needs to be accessed to get to port on back side that RL hooks up to? I do that by pulling off front exterior panel immediate to tank front?

2. The top of genset above engine needs to be removed to replace old line with new using existing routing but use new line and hold downs?

3. The old metal return line metal manifold and rubber lines leading to base of each injector is discarded and replaced with new fuel line and nylon 1/8" T's? They don't appear to be leaking.

Thanks

 

[Light in the Dark]

Yes pull the rear fuel tank cover, so you can see where the return dumps into the tank. Pull the return line from the tank and pull back through the cabinet into the engine bay.

Replace all return line South of the hard metal line with new. Replace the Ts only if you need to. Use zip ties to put back into the same approximate position as OEM and test. Replace all accessories and metal panels as needed.

Take your time, its an easy one. Use small zip ties over the plastic barbs on the Ts to keep the lines from creeping off.

 

[4WD]

Yes pull the rear fuel tank cover, ....

Thats inside the engine compartment?

Replace all return line South of the hard metal line with new. Replace the Ts only if you need to. Use zip ties to put back into the same approximate position as OEM and test. Replace all accessories and metal panels as needed.

I'll post up a picture to point out what I'm seeing compared to what you saying. I think I'm going to focus on eliminating fabric covered line thats pretty feeble looking after cutting out a section. The rubber hose going from manifold to injector looks to be in good shape.

Edit here a picture of return line to injector...



Take your time, its an easy one. Use small zip ties over the plastic barbs on the Ts to keep the lines from creeping off.

What plastic barbs are you referring to?

 

[4WD]

Should I replace any other lines now since I'm doing this?

 

[Guyfang]

I never had to replace a rubber line on a TQG. Its the fabric lines that leak.

 

[Light in the Dark]

I have experienced deteriorated rubber lines to the lift pumps, but not in the same frequency as the return lines. Those fail all the time.

 

[4WD]

I'm going to do a temporary bypass of the bad section at the bend and get it running so I can see if anything else is leaking. Then I'll get all the parts together to do as much at one time as possible.

Thanks for the advice and feedback everyone.

 

[Light in the Dark]

You might find the time it takes to remove the roof and accessories, to take longer than the line replacement. I would just do the entire return at once. Its really not difficult. You will see once you get in there. Never hurts to just buy a spool of the Gates stuff and keep it on the shelf.

 

[Light in the Dark]

And don't mess with those thicker lines to the lift pumps unless they show signs of leaking. Just buy some 1/4" Gates line for your shelf and if they ever need to be replaced, you have the stuff onhand.

 

[4WD]

Completed temporary return line using copper model airplane fuel line as splice and did test run. About two hours up to 75 % full load. Much quieter than my old gas 5700 watt. No flickering of some LED as in the past under gen power.

Had some confusion regarding AC bypass switch. Thought it was a momentary off type switch but not. Didn't have power at first due to this misunderstanding. After flipping up I had power at L1/L3. Relieved to put it mildly.

Running a temporary output to panel using 6/3 was not much more expediate than having electrician do a permanent. Live and learn.

Not sure what to do about oil change and coolant. Tag in motor compartment seems to indicate it was last serviced in 11/2018. Oil and filter I could see. Not sure about fuel filters as it arrived with little over four hours.

 

[jmenende]

I never had to replace a rubber line on a TQG. Its the fabric lines that leak.

Ive replaced the rubber lines off the lift pump and its a pain. You have to cut the top clamps with a dremel in order to remove the old rubber line and reuse the manifold.

 

[Guyfang]

Completed temporary return line using copper model airplane fuel line as splice and did test run. About two hours up to 75 % full load. Much quieter than my old gas 5700 watt. No flickering of some LED as in the past under gen power.

Had some confusion regarding AC bypass switch. Thought it was a momentary off type switch but not. Didn't have power at first due to this misunderstanding. After flipping up I had power at L1/L3. Relieved to put it mildly. What is a AC bypass switch?

Running a temporary output to panel using 6/3 was not much more expediate than having electrician do a permanent. Live and learn.

Not sure what to do about oil change and coolant. Tag in motor compartment seems to indicate it was last serviced in 11/2018. Oil and filter I could see. Not sure about fuel filters as it arrived with little over four hours.

 

[4WD]

A switch by another name. The one that cuts off gen output. In middle bottom row control panel. Im in bed and not getting to check its other name till the pot starts brewing.

Edit ...believe its called on drawing K1 AC CIRCUIT INTERRUPTER

 

[Guyfang]

Thought so.