M-series flasher relay - civvy conversion how-to

[clinto]

I just bought an ef22. Can i just run wires to under the dash and mount it there instead of using a gang box or such?

I suspect you mean an EG22 but yes. You can simply cut off your cannon connector, ignore the ground wire and crimp spade connectors onto the existing wires, if that's how you want to roll.

 

[Jeepguy77]

Thanks. I assumed I could but you never know. Everyone in the post wanted to use the cannon connector.

 

[tcruwithme]

Is there room in the new box for a second/spare relay? I see that Vetco has several size options for this type of box.

So, I have to post an update.

After 3 years on the truck, one of the plastic mounting tabs on the box broke. Now, this may be my fault, as I tend to pull the box off and use it to test customer vehicles before I build another relay. So maybe that had something to do with it............

But, after thinking about it, I think the heat and vibration of the engine compartment are probably hard on that box. So I ordered one of the metal boxes The Stig used to build his and I've now upgraded my flasher to Version 2.0.

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[clinto]

Is there room in the new box for a second/spare relay? I see that Vetco has several size options for this type of box.

I don't think so. I think when i converted to this box from the plastic that I tried to move the extra flasher into it and it wouldn't fit.

The Stig (who I got the part # for this box from) used this one because the bolt holes allowed it to bolt to the vehicle using the factory holes.

 

[Kickerson]

Do you have a link or part number to the wires you connected to the EG 22? The wires can be seen in the pictures of version 2.0. Thanks for the post and has anyone verified that this will work with LEDS yet?

 

[clinto]

Do you have a link or part number to the wires you connected to the EG 22? The wires can be seen in the pictures of version 2.0. Thanks for the post and has anyone verified that this will work with LEDS yet?

I don't have a link for the harness I bought, because I got it from Napa but I suspect this one will work:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TWR3032BX

I have seen this work on a truck that had rear LEDs, incandescent fronts. That's my only LED experience.

 

[MyothersanM1]

My third GI flasher unit in nine years has decided to go south me and I am now done with those problem children. Driving SoCal freeways with no flashers is scary proposition.
So, here's my stab at this upgrade on my M818. I did fudge up the on the "L" contact lead on the wiring harness. I was not getting power into the relay. I just reversed the red and black (open) leads and, BAM, "click, click, click..."!
The box mounting tabs were drilled out to 5/16" just enough to mount right up to the existing holes.
As you can see, a boxed up spare relay is stashed snugly inside. I also added some padding to prevent to much vibration.

 

[Kickerson]

Thanks for your help with this! I can now verify that it works on my M998 with LED lights all the way around. Thank you for saving me hundreds in replacement costs!

 

[clinto]

My original EG22 that I installed in 2015 died at the rally last week. So I got about 4 years and 8 months. Not sure on mileage, but I don't drive the truck much.

Metal box had no moisture in it or evidence of having had moisture in it.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Well that's a shame. You have all incandescent lights right? Hoping I'll get a good long life out of mine with all LED signals.

 

[clinto]

Well that's a shame. You have all incandescent lights right? Hoping I'll get a good long life out of mine with all LED signals.

Yes. Although all my civvy trailers have LEDs. I think this is just what you get with cheap Chinese stuff. I doubt it's a load issue.

 

[Recovry4x4]

So, I'm going to do this for Jonathan's M49A2C. As long as I can get the connector back in the cab, I plan on mounting this up under the dash out of harm and road grimes way.

 

[cattlerepairman]

My original EG22 that I installed in 2015 died at the rally last week. So I got about 4 years and 8 months. Not sure on mileage, but I don't drive the truck much.

Metal box had no moisture in it or evidence of having had moisture in it.

Clinto, that is 4x the life span of the military correct flasher units I had installed. They were utter garbage.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

 

[BEASTMASTER]

ya i hear ya, i got tired of replacing mine so i just cut the wires and installed a flasher out of a cat loader. problem solved.

 

[marchplumber]

Know this is an old thread, but definitely worth resurrection!! I've gone through my share of original style, so did the "Clinto Relay" and I am very happy.....I do have a spare in the box and a moisture packet... Click,click,click......Purdy sound!! THANKS again!!!

 

[dherman304]

Excellent post, (not sorry for reviving it) I did the mod and all signals work except back passanger. I checked voltage at the socket and it seems to be the same as the driver side socket that is working. I tried three different bulbs as well. Any idea what could be wrong?

 

[Mullaney]

Excellent post, (not sorry for reviving it) I did the mod and all signals work except back passanger. I checked voltage at the socket and it seems to be the same as the driver side socket that is working. I tried three different bulbs as well. Any idea what could be wrong?

.
You checked voltage...
Did you check the ground on that right rear fixture?

 

[dherman304]

.
You checked voltage...
Did you check the ground on that right rear fixture?

now none of them work. And yes, check that socket's ground agains other working bulbs and the back graound on the outside. They all had onctinuity.

 

[m16ty]

I know this is an old thread, but I was getting my deuce ready for the local Veterans Day Parade and noticed the blinker wasn’t working. Upon investigation I found out I had another bad flasher unit. I remembered this thread from years ago and pulled it up.

My goal is to mount a EG22 flasher into the factory housing. I experimented with a couple of methods to remove the potting material. I first hit it with a 1/2 drill bit which worked but kind of stalled when I hit the circuit board. Then I tried a heat gun and screwdriver, which worked better. The heat gun will soften it up and I can break it up with the screwdriver while hot without too much effort.

My first thought was to take the flasher unit to work and use a mill to mill out all the potting, but not knowing the layout of the circuitry I didn’t want to hang a wire coming out of the plug and rip it out. I used the heat gun and screwdriver method to expose the end of the plug with the wires coming out. At this point I think I’ll take it to work tomorrow and mill most of it out now that I’ve got a rough idea of the wiring layout. After I do that I’ll use the heat gun and screwdriver to finish cleaning up around the plug terminals.

The heat gun method works pretty well. I would suspect you could clean it all out in about 30 minutes. I’m just taking it to the mill because I have one and it think it will speed up the process somewhat, but it is doable with just a heat gun and screwdriver.

My plan is to get everything out of the factory housing, wire in the EG22, and then make a aluminum cover to go on the back that will be held in place with the mounting screws.

 

[marchplumber]

I know this is an old thread, but I was getting my deuce ready for the local Veterans Day Parade and noticed the blinker wasn’t working. Upon investigation I found out I had another bad flasher unit. I remembered this thread from years ago and pulled it up.

My goal is to mount a EG22 flasher into the factory housing. I experimented with a couple of methods to remove the potting material. I first hit it with a 1/2 drill bit which worked but kind of stalled when I hit the circuit board. Then I tried a heat gun and screwdriver, which worked better. The heat gun will soften it up and I can break it up with the screwdriver while hot without too much effort.

My first thought was to take the flasher unit to work and use a mill to mill out all the potting, but not knowing the layout of the circuitry I didn’t want to hang a wire coming out of the plug and rip it out. I used the heat gun and screwdriver method to expose the end of the plug with the wires coming out. At this point I think I’ll take it to work tomorrow and mill most of it out now that I’ve got a rough idea of the wiring layout. After I do that I’ll use the heat gun and screwdriver to finish cleaning up around the plug terminals.

The heat gun method works pretty well. I would suspect you could clean it all out in about 30 minutes. I’m just taking it to the mill because I have one and it think it will speed up the process somewhat, but it is doable with just a heat gun and screwdriver.

My plan is to get everything out of the factory housing, wire in the EG22, and then make a aluminum cover to go on the back that will be held in place with the mounting screws.

Will look nice.....how are ya fonna "seal" it? I too got tired of the perpetual replacement.....this works great.....this site is a treasure chest of info and insight!