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M1008 Build

DIVE DIVE

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Chesapeake, VA
After priming the fuel system up to the IP: four ten second cranking cycles with all injector fittings loose. My particular order of priming was injector 3 then 5 and 7, then 2, then 1,6,8, and 4; closed them off as they had visible fuel. Once all had visible fuel at fittings, installed glow plugs and wires. Cranked for ten seconds. Noticeable sputter. Cranked for ten additional seconds, shuddering and firing haphazardly. Cranked an additional 10 seconds and she fired up came up to speed, shuddered, hunted, and shut down. Half throttle started, fired right up (after glow plug wait) and spun up quickly, let off the throttle and she came down to idle. It was apparent at that point that all cylinders were receiving a good fuel supply by the low and steady idle. Let run for 10 seconds and shut down with the key.
 

DIVE DIVE

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Max temperature after running under her own power for a total of 35 seconds and a 29 minute heat soak before I heat gunned: valve cover: 74 F, cylinder head at exhaust manifold: 85 F, oil pan: 57 F. Ambient air temperature: 57 F. Starter did all the work: 89 F and solenoid: 87 F.
 

DIVE DIVE

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Chesapeake, VA
Front driveshaft is only actually 3 inches longer, just looks like more from where they cut it. Spring Menders in Norfolk, VA. 168 bucks. I was asking the guy about what tubing they used and the wall thickness and he said “don’t worry, if Dennis Anderson can’t break our driveshafts you’ll be fine.” I laughed but he didn’t really answer my question :unsure:
 

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ezgn

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Lake Elsinore Ca.
Max temperature after running under her own power for a total of 35 seconds and a 29 minute heat soak before I heat gunned: valve cover: 74 F, cylinder head at exhaust manifold: 85 F, oil pan: 57 F. Ambient air temperature: 57 F. Starter did all the work: 89 F and solenoid: 87 F.
Good job! You are a skilled mechanic and take pride in your work. It's great to hear that it started up and ran good. I'm looking forward to the next run time.
 

Mullaney

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Front driveshaft is only actually 3 inches longer, just looks like more from where they cut it. Spring Menders in Norfolk, VA. 168 bucks. I was asking the guy about what tubing they used and the wall thickness and he said “don’t worry, if Dennis Anderson can’t break out driveshafts you’ll be fine.” I laughed but he didn’t really answer my question :unsure:
.
Guessing the guy at Spring Menders was talking about the Monster Truck pilot - Dennis Anderson.

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DIVE DIVE

Well-known member
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Location
Chesapeake, VA
She moved under her own power today out into the driveway. I’ve had her up to temperature twice now and everything seems to be good (other than the weepy radiator). I forgot how noisy these engines are; they sound like they are coming apart. She hums right on up and down, though. Did have a little setback with the trans dipstick, but got it welded back together and working-just a temporary fix though, it will need to be replaced. Had to fish it out of the dipstick hole with a small magnet taped to the remainder of the dipstick. Between the transfer case and transmission I think I’ve added about 4 gallons of ATF so far. Oreilly’s sells it in a 5 gallon jug but it’s usually not on the floor, you have to ask for it. I think I paid 90 dollars for it which isn’t a bad deal.
 

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DIVE DIVE

Well-known member
217
778
93
Location
Chesapeake, VA
Took her on her maiden voyage today. No funny noises or anything. Shifted through all 3 gears. Needs steering correction from the lift. Oh yeah and another door, hood, glass, seals, paint, body work, and about 100 other things. But she did good all in all. Drove her a few miles back and forth down my road. Enough for my foot to start getting hot through the floorboard, which anyone that drives one of these things knows what I’m talking about!
 

WWRD99

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York Pa
She moved under her own power today out into the driveway. I’ve had her up to temperature twice now and everything seems to be good (other than the weepy radiator). I forgot how noisy these engines are; they sound like they are coming apart. She hums right on up and down, though. Did have a little setback with the trans dipstick, but got it welded back together and working-just a temporary fix though, it will need to be replaced. Had to fish it out of the dipstick hole with a small magnet taped to the remainder of the dipstick. Between the transfer case and transmission I think I’ve added about 4 gallons of ATF so far. Oreilly’s sells it in a 5 gallon jug but it’s usually not on the floor, you have to ask for it. I think I paid 90 dollars for it which isn’t a bad deal.

That big ground wire you have going to the frame is that hooked to the block on the firewall or to the rear head? I don't have that big wire to the frame just a small one off the front battery. Is great to see this running! Keep that trans fluid going!! I have found dexron 3 at tractor supply for about 15 $ a gallon...I don't think many vehicles left on the planet use it but old farmer trucks...it is not compatible with anything new so it's cheaper.
 

87cr250r

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Rodeo, Ca
That small ground strap on the passenger side head is for the glow plugs. If you don't have it connected your brake hardlines from the master cylinder will start smoking during the glow plug cycle.
 

DIVE DIVE

Well-known member
217
778
93
Location
Chesapeake, VA
That big ground wire you have going to the frame is that hooked to the block on the firewall or to the rear head? I don't have that big wire to the frame just a small one off the front battery. Is great to see this running! Keep that trans fluid going!! I have found dexron 3 at tractor supply for about 15 $ a gallon...I don't think many vehicles left on the planet use it but old farmer trucks...it is not compatible with anything new so it's cheaper.
Yeah wow you were looking closely! That is actually the slave receptacle ground so it attaches directly to the negative bus. I just attached it temporarily for another ground point.

The block is grounded through the 2 gauge wire directly to the negative bus pictured below. Your passenger rear stud on the intake should have this large 2 gauge wire, a smaller braided copper wire (attached adjacently to the firewall), and another small wire that comes out of the harness that goes to the glow plug module ground.
In the first picture on the farthest right lug is where I have my engine ground attached.
This also provides a ground path for the starter which is another significant load when operating.
DD467C73-B26D-48A6-B2EC-D026869C0878.jpeg2656C431-C19D-410C-B04F-796A7CE36944.jpeg
 

DIVE DIVE

Well-known member
217
778
93
Location
Chesapeake, VA
Got the hood installed. It’s not the original hood but it’s going to work. It also has the cowl seal and under hood insulation, which is nice. Also got the pintle installed. The rear bumper had been previously modified to incorporate a fairlead for a rear winch, but I don’t think I’m going to go that direction at this point so I’ll eventually need to weld in some filler plates. The rear bumper sheet metal where it’s missing provides little structural support so it’s going to be fully functional as of now.
 

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DIVE DIVE

Well-known member
217
778
93
Location
Chesapeake, VA
Rear window 5% tint and installed, seat hinges and sliders painted and seat installed. Also got the windshield installed but I’m lacking the tool for the trim ring installation. I think this is one of those tools that you really need for install so I’ll stop by the auto parts store even though it’s unlikely that will have it. May be an internet purchase.
 

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