M1009 starting problems

[Tinstar]

 

[cucvrus]

I have the full gauge package in my Crown of Thorns M1009 logging Blazer.My hour meter has over 2500 hrs on it. I don't know if that is possible with 125K miles on it. Does anyone know how mileage and hours equate? I get it as coming out to 50MPH for 2500 hours. Does that make any sense? Sounds logical.

 

[REDWOLF]

Ok. Quick update, I was off today so instead of going to Conowingo fishing I decided I should try to fix the M1009. Installed the new lift pump went for a ride came back shut it off started right back up no problems. Went inside came back out 20-30 minutes later would crank but not fire. Same problem as before. Installed the new glow plug solenoid, same deal. Waited about 1 to 1 1/2 hours until the glow plug light just came on for a couple seconds and she started up. What the heck is going on. Uhg.

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[richingalveston]

cranking and not starting is fuel delivery problem. You probably have a bad shut off solenoid on the IP. When it is warm it will not engage. Try tapping on the top of the IP cover with a small wrench when it is not wanting to start.

Sometimes they work fine when cold but stick once things are warmed up. And the opposite. Mine does not like to shut off.

If it starts right up once things are cold, it is not a air in fuel problem or you would have a lot of other symptoms.

 

[REDWOLF]

Thanks richingalveston I will check that. Is that a part that can be replaced without get a new pump?

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[cucvrus]

Red wolf that's OK I caught a few stringers full and took them back to Pennsylvania with me. After a stop at Johnston's Spirits I was on my way. The river was low early in the day and when they opened up the turbines the catfish quit biting. I still think you have injection pump issues. That's my diagnosis from afar. I think you will have great results with a rebuilt injection pump. I know it always solves any issues people are having with starting and not starting after it is warm. I just put one on last week or the week before for a friend. He was dancing around doing for about a year. Then when he saw how great my Crown of Thorns ran after the pump he was on it. My Mule got a new injection pump last summer during it's rebuild. Has run great since. I drove it to Conowingo and back twice in the last 2 weeks.

 

[REDWOLF]

Wish I could have met up with you at the dam to do some fishing, but needed to try to get my truck fixed. Glad you caught some, have not been able to go with the blazer acting like it is.

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[antennaclimber]

Try manually closing the GP relay for 5-10 seconds the next time the engine is warm and will not start. See if it starts after you turn the glow plugs on for a short period of time.

To do this, turn the key to the Run position, take a clip lead and attach it to the terminal on the GP relay with the light Blue wire and ground.
The relay should close in the stock CUCV configuration.

 

[REDWOLF]

I think I am going to try swapping the top from my old injector pump with the top that is on the injector pump in my truck. The only thing that is wrong with the old pump is that it leaks from the seal on the shaft on the side.

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[REDWOLF]

Try manually closing the GP relay for 5-10 seconds the next the engine is warm and will not start. See if it starts after you turn the glow plugs on for a short period of time.

To do this, turn the key to the Run position, take a clip lead and attach it to the terminal on the GP relay with the light Blue wire and ground.
The relay should close in the stock CUCV configuration.

If I do this and it does start what does that mean?

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[cpf240]

If I do this and it does start what does that mean?

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It could mean that the GP temp sensor is bad, or perhaps the GP controller card is bad.

 

[richingalveston]

The tops should not matter. He is trying to get you to test the glow plug card and the temp sensor that operates the glow plugs.

If the truck will start, drive it until it is up to operating temp then park it and shut it off for 2 to 3 minutes. If it does not restart and the truck is still that warm, your fuel shut off is having problems.
If the truck is not warm enough it will need the glow plugs to restart. The glow plug controller card uses a temp sensor to determine this. There is also another temp sensor that controls the cold start and throttle advance.
If the truck is not warm enough to start they glow plug relay should cycle on. If the truck is already warm enough the glow plugs should not turn on.

You could have bad glow plug control card, bad temp sensor or sticking shut off solenoid.
I am leaning toward the shut off solenoid.

It can stick shut or open when the truck is warm. mine sticks open and I have to use a small wrench to tap on it to get the truck to shut down.
Yours may shut off fine but when warm the solenoid may be to week to pull it open. The heat swells things up and makes it harder to operate

get your truck hot and if it does not want to restart, leave the key on, tap on the top cover of the IP. you sometimes here it click open and shut but hard to when beating on it.
then try to crank it again.

Leave the key on so power stays to the solenoid when tapping on it. (first verify you have power there when the key is on)

you can make a jumper wire from the front battery to the solenoid to test the ignition circuit if you think the circuit is the problem.

hope this helps.

 

[antennaclimber]

Some trucks have a "dead zone" where the engine temperature sensor is not providing a resistance value to the glow plug card to turn the glow plugs on. If the resistance from the temperature sensor is low the controller will not send the ground to close the relay. If the resistance from the temperature sensor is high (or open) the GP card will think the engine is cold and will send the ground to the GP relay.

By manually turning on the glow plugs this will help determine if you are experiencing this issue.

I have two trucks that sometimes experience this dead zone. So I added the "Additional Heat Option" to the latest revision of the glow plug controllers to overcome this particular problem. The GP cards that have the additional heat option will turn the GP's on for a brief time even if the engine is in the warm to hot range.

 

[REDWOLF]

Try manually closing the GP relay for 5-10 seconds the next time the engine is warm and will not start. See if it starts after you turn the glow plugs on for a short period of time.

To do this, turn the key to the Run position, take a clip lead and attach it to the terminal on the GP relay with the light Blue wire and ground.
The relay should close in the stock CUCV configuration.

I am assuming you are taking about the relay under the dash. I will try this tomorrow night after I get home from work. I tried taping on the ip pump tonight with the handle of a small hammer with no luck. I am getting power to the fuel solenoid when the key is on.

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[antennaclimber]

The glow plug relay is located in the engine compartment on the fire wall,drivers side, near the brake system master cylinder.

 

[REDWOLF]

The glow plug relay is located in the engine compartment on the fire wall,drivers side, near the brake system master cylinder.

Ok thanks. Sorry for the stupid question. I thought that is what you where taking about but I call it a solenoid. I just replaced it Saturday, because i was having a long wait light and the truck not starting, unless i taped on it then it worked fine. I am assuming you are still selling the glow plug cards if I need one? I already have a new glow plug temp sensor in the cab of the blazer incase that is what it turns out to be. Thanks for all the help and knowledge.

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[antennaclimber]

Ok thanks. Sorry for the stupid question. I thought that is what you where taking about but I call it a solenoid. I just replaced it Saturday, because i was having a long wait light and the truck not starting, unless i taped on it then it worked fine. I am assuming you are still selling the glow plug cards if I need one? I already have a new glow plug temp sensor in the cab of the blazer incase that is what it turns out to be. Thanks for all the help and knowledge.

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New cards are available
Here
http://www.glowplugcards.com/
And Here
http://www.hillbillywizard.com/cucv-and-k30-parts/cucv-glow-plug-card-new/

You may want to inspect and test each glow plug as well to ensure that all of them are working correctly.

 

[REDWOLF]

So this evening after I got home from work for about a hour, I went out to try to start the truck wile it was still warm. Turned the key no wait light ,witch is normal because the it is still warm. Turned the key it just cranked would not fire. Hooked up one of my test leads to the light blue wire on the glow plug solenoid and grounded it, tried the key and this a couple times with no luck. Finally got my test light just to see if maybe the lead was bad. This time I got the click nose from the solenoid and the truck started. So? Now what? Replace the glow plug thermastat? Or as some people call it the tower.

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[antennaclimber]

Change the glow plug temperature sensor and see if that corrects the problem.

Your GP card thinks the engine is warm enough to start without heating the glow plugs but in fact it is not.

Sounds as if you have a defective test lead or did not have a good connection when you tried to force the GP relay to close. When properly done, you will hear it click when it closes.

 

[REDWOLF]

Yes. When I used my test light I heard it close. Ok. I will change that the first chance I get this week and see what happens. I have a new one in the center console of the blazer I already bought when I was trying to figure this out.

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