M1009 with 15k miles won't start

[3dubs]

I got another M1009 but this one only has 15k miles. Not bad for a 1985. But the batteries were low so they are charging. My question is about what I should watch for when starting. I charged the batteries some and it turned over, sounded rough, but would not start before the batteries gave out. I know I should not use starting fluid. I was told GL started it with a jump start and starter fluid. Will WD40 harm the engine like starter fluid? I would like to add some lubrication to the pistons and it helps with starting. What could go bad just sitting?

 

[Alredneck]

First congrats on the new truck! Second I wouldnt believe any mileage on any military vehicle. As warm as it is in TX right now you shouldnt need glow plugs, starting fluid, etc. I would check to make sure shes getting fuel to the pump. And then work your way from there. But there alot of guys on here that know alot about them cucvs so hopefully they will chime in here soon. Good luck and hope she gets resolved soon!

 

[frodobaggins]

Ether isn't going to hurt in small doses.

 

[ralbelt]

I used WD40 last Dec in 30 degree weather to fire it off, now with a new flex plate and glow plugs and temps in the 70's she's fires right up.

 

[3dubs]

Well I got the batteries to hold a charge but it will not start. It seems to not be getting fuel. I can get get the lifter sounds when I spray but it does not start. I do not have a camera with me. When looking at the silver box fuel filter there is a whitish tube on the top passenger side that was cracked and when I went to cut and reatach I found that it was melted on the end. A black rubber tube about a half inch thick that went down to nothing. Are those two tubes overflows? I am trying to find it in the TM's but I can't find it yet. Also does the fuel pump self prime? I read in another thread to take the fuel filter off and fill it with diesel. But it is about 95 degrees with 100% humidity and I am working in the sun. I am running to the store to get a fuel can to get some diesel to put in the filter. I need to get a cold drink anyway. If anybody is outside Houston around Magnolia TX and knows something about starting this I do have beer

 

[rickf]

The 6.2 will always need the glow plugs to start even if it is hot out. Once the engine is warmed up you don't need them. Do NOT use ether!!!!!!!!!!! The compression on the 6.2 is 21:1 and you will blow the head gaskets right out. You could even bend a rod. The 6.5 is 17:1 and I still would not ether it. You can use WD-40 but not too much. The tube on top of he filter is the bleeder, you loosen the plastic nut and have someone crank it over and that will bleed the air out of the filter. The lift pump on the block is self priming. When you turn on the key do you hear the glow plug solenoid clunk on the firewall? If not then the controller or the solenoid is bad, most likely the controller. Take a screwdriver, one that you don't mind arcing a little, and cross the two large terminals on the relay on the firewall. You should get a few sparks. If you have the original glow plugs in then don't hold it more than 10 seconds. After a count of ten have someone try to start it. Never crank the starter more then ten seconds, they will burn up fast. I am not on here much so if you have any questions send me an e-mail at rickf1985@comcast.net. Good luck.


Rick

 

[3dubs]

Thanks! I pulled the fuel filter and diesel pored out. So my guess is the the solenoid or when GL used ether they blew the head gaskets and I am not getting compression. I have a compression gauge back in Houston but on a gas engine it goes in the spark plug hole where would it go on a diesel or do I need one for diesel? Had one beer and this is better. At least the batteries hold a charge. But if I have to pull the heads I need shade at least. The solenoid on the firewall is the old type maybe I should just change it out anyway.

 

[kennyw]

You can get a diesel compression gauge set from harbor freight for about $35-40. You should go ahead and put on a new filter if you haven't already. Next test all the glow plugs and make sure they are good. Then a long slow process of bleeding the fuel lines.

I can get get the lifter sounds when I spray but it does not start.

Sounds like one or two cylinder were trying to fire but the glow plugs are probably dead. Test them with a simple test probe. Hook the alligator clip up to the 12V+ side of your batteries then touch the probe to the end of the glow plug (with the wire disconnected first). If it lights up the plug is good, no light and it is bad.

 

[wallew]

You can get a diesel compression gauge set from harbor freight for about $35-40. You should go ahead and put on a new filter if you haven't already. Next test all the glow plugs and make sure they are good. Then a long slow process of bleeding the fuel lines.

Sounds like one or two cylinder were trying to fire but the glow plugs are probably dead. Test them with a simple test probe. Hook the alligator clip up to the 12V+ side of your batteries then touch the probe to the end of the glow plug (with the wire disconnected first). If it lights up the plug is good, no light and it is bad.

Testing the glow plugs is a must. BUT, do a visual first. Do your valve covers leak any? If they have, they may have covered the glow plug connectors with a fine film of oil. Mine were. Cleaned them all off (the front four - two on each side were heavily coated) and it made a huge difference.

Also, you may (or may not) be getting fuel to the fuel injectors. As kennyw says, the next thing is the 'long slow process of bleeding the fuel lines'. It takes two people - one to turn it over while the other person first opens and then closes each fuel injector. It took me about a half hour with the help of a friend who knew what he was doing.

BUT, after doing all that, she started right up. And continued to do so there after.

You could have other problems, but that's a good place to start. I've also found that sometimes the fuel pump is not providing enough pressure and a 12v fuel pump (mine was already on one of my CUCV's) in line in front of the fuel tank can make a huge difference. It gave me a consistent fuel flow that was missing with a worn mechanical fuel pump at the front of the engine (passenger side, down low).

Good luck and keep us informed. Before you go start tearing into larger things, I've got a buddy of mine that might be willing to help and is on the west side of Houston. He's got an M1009 himself. So he knows the CUCV's fairly well.

 

[stampy]

Once you pull the filter it will take quite some time (cranking) for it to refill with diesel. You may choose to replace it with the walmart setup (30$ in the boating section) it offers a spin on filter and thus you can prefill it. This make filter changes a breeze.

 

[3dubs]

Well I was rechecking vacume lines and I found a short line that was dried and cracked and just fell in my hand. I was trying to figure out where it went so I looked at my other M1009 (that does not run) and found the line from the canister at the back of the engine conected to a metel tube by the injection pump and the Vacuum Regulator Valve was not connected to anything. I went and got vacume hose but the adapter on the Vacuum Regulator Valve is cracked too. I have found the Vacuum Regulator Valve online but not the adapter. Can I get just the adapter? Could that be my problem?

 

[rickf]

If the vacuum line you are talking about is what I think it is that is for the transmission. That determines the shift points. Send me another e-mail with your phone number and I will give you a call this evening.


Rick

 

[SmokeyDod]

The vacuum don't have anything to do with it starting or not. I have 9 cucv right now & I have seen several problems at times-but getting engine to start is normally not too bad. First thing is to "bleed" the fuel WITHOUT having to take loose all the injector lines. The fuel cannister system on the firewall have never been issue with me. First charge your batteries (both) and simply ( 1 man job) turn the engine over for 5 sec and then go out and loosen the TOP black plastic bleeder valve by l-2 turns- it should "squirt" out fuel, if there is any air in the system it will "spit" out the air. If it does this, close the valve & turn engine again 5 sec and check valve again same way. Keep doing this until you have a steady stream of fuel only without any spitting of air. Normally will take 4-8 times. Once you have steady stream, truck should start.
If it don't then, next step is to check to make sure you glow plugs are working correctly.
As to "Crossing the two poles on your firewall solonoid" I wouldn't do that. If your glow plug card is not "fried" already, it soon will be.

 

[3dubs]

Went to blled the air and fuel camoe out on the first try. Found out the vacume hoses going to the IP go to an adapter. Removed the cracked adapter and put the hoses on the Vacuum Regulator Valve which is on the side of the IP. But it still does not start. Now I have my multimeter and when I figure out how to use it I will check the glow plugs. This is my first diesel to work on and will sound great when it starts. It is a whole lot easier to break things and someone else fix it.

 

[wallew]

This is my first diesel to work on and will sound great when it starts. It is a whole lot easier to break things and someone else fix it.

3dubs,
Got your PM. I've sent contact info to my buddy in Houston. He will either call you or call me. Or both.

And while I do agree it's 'easier' to let someone else fix it, it's not nearly as satisfying as when YOU fix it and hear that baby roar to life. OK, maybe roar might not be the correct verb, but still.

And it's WAY cheaper to fix when you do the work yourself and then you can help the NEXT GUY who needs it in Houston. KIP.

That's how most of us do it.

Keep us informed.

 

[motormayhem]

I hear that ether is ok in small amounts if the glow plugs are disabled. Is that true. Might just need a little kick to get going if it has sat.

 

[stampy]

You could try putting trans fluid in a spray bottle remove the air cleaner and fog the intake while someone turns over the starter. When I had a problem getting my filter to charge I did this and kept it running long enough to fill the filter and IP.

 

[mkcoen]

One thing to check is the right motor mount. The mounts from this era have a tendency to fail and in doing so crush the fuel line. A friend worked on mine for several days before finding out that was the problem.

 

[3dubs]

I think I have to start kicking things and throwing stuff. I do enjoy fixing things when they are fixed. I started replacing the glow plugs but it got dark. I figure I will do that next. If that does not work I will jump power to the plugs. I also have a fuel filter so I will swap that out too. I figured out my multimeter and only had about ohm resitence or less in each plug. The TM says 1-3 so I hope that solves the problem. I hope to finish the plugs Saturday afternoon. Thanks for all the input. I may just add a manuel glow plug switch just to prevent the card from failing.

 

[stampy]

You may want to change the filter to a spin on as the square filters take forever to fill by cranking the starter. The spin on ones can be prefilled! Look in Walmarts boating section there is a kit with the block and filter for around 30$