M1009 with 15k miles won't start

[3dubs]

Well c3bosco came over drank up all the beer and margaritas. Got the bobcat running and caught a chicken. Why he caught the chicken well I think the magaritas had something to do with it. I started dropping the engine in bent one injector line and ripped the wires out of the fuel filter bracket. Then c3bosco helped and the engine is in with no more damage. A screw from the exhaust manifold went in the exhaust pipe now I am losening up the pipe. At least all of that looks almost new.

 

[TigerHawk]

Can you here the fuel pump when you turn on the power?

When you got the truck, did you drain the fuel and fillerup with a new batch? You never know what kind of fuel someone was experimenting with as far as fuel combinations. Unless you know and trust the person you bought it from...

I have a 109 and I can here that fuel pump, you should be able to as we!

TigerHawk

Well I got the batteries to hold a charge but it will not start. It seems to not be getting fuel. I can get get the lifter sounds when I spray but it does not start. I do not have a camera with me. When looking at the silver box fuel filter there is a whitish tube on the top passenger side that was cracked and when I went to cut and reatach I found that it was melted on the end. A black rubber tube about a half inch thick that went down to nothing. Are those two tubes overflows? I am trying to find it in the TM's but I can't find it yet. Also does the fuel pump self prime? I read in another thread to take the fuel filter off and fill it with diesel. But it is about 95 degrees with 100% humidity and I am working in the sun. I am running to the store to get a fuel can to get some diesel to put in the filter. I need to get a cold drink anyway. If anybody is outside Houston around Magnolia TX and knows something about starting this I do have beer

 

[3dubs]

We have FIRE! Well a lot of smoke! I hooked up the batteries and smoke came rolling out from around the front battery and the whole side. I had not clamped the ground just put it on the battery to turn the engine over so I ran over to pull it off. I ran into a cinder block with my shin and did not even know until later. There was so much smoke I could not even see the battery. I tried to blow the smoke so I could see. I just reached down and yanked the cable off the battery and hoped the smoke would clear. After the smoke cleared I saw the small wire that comes off the front battery positive was melted all the way up to the bank of resistors on the firewall. c3bosco showed up right after I freaked out and sent him a text. He saw the wire ran behind the resistors and had been grounded on the screw that holds the fuel filter bracket. I had pulled it off because I broke the wires and put the one off my other truck on. The lower screw I could not see when I put it on and had caught wire behind the screw. Oops! I pulled all the burnt wire out and will replace it. Just the exhaust to finish hooking up. Then bleed the fuel and hook up the injectors. Then it better work or I will cry.

The fuel looks and smells good. Well not good it smells like diesel. I did check it and ask others opinions too.

 

[doghead]

drank up all the beer and margaritas

.

Never work on your MV while influenced by alcohol.!

 

[3dubs]

He was not working on his MV under the influence. He was working on mine. Stuff stopped getting broke when he helped. I guess that was my problem. I may not have shorted the wire if I had a few more. I just need to add that to the TM.

 

[rickf]

Yup, A 24 volt short will do a lot of damage REAL quick! You say you bent an injector line, that may haunt you also. Believe it or not that can change the timing on that cylinder and create one hell of a knock. Just keep that in mind when you fire it up if you have a strange sound.


Rick

 

[stuinnh]

Better solenoid power supply

Hi all!
The resister on the firewall drops power from 24v to 12v to power the glow plugs. If you take wire off the end of the resister and put it on 12v power block near it you get a much better power supply to the solenoid . Once you no longer need the resister, you disconnect the other end from the 24v supply you can remove the resister and sell it on Ebay for around $20. This way you don't have to worry about the resister going bad either.

 

[doghead]

Hi all!
The resister on the firewall drops power from 24v to 12v to power the glow plugs. If you take wire off the end of the resister and put it on 12v power block near it you get a much better power supply to the solenoid . Once you no longer need the resister, you disconnect the other end from the 24v supply you can remove the resister and sell it on Ebay for around $20. This way you don't have to worry about the resister going bad either.

The down side to the modification above is, you won't have operational GPs if your front battery dies and you use a Nato Slave cable to jump start it. Other than that, it works well, and eliminates the "domino effect" of failing glowplugs, when one does not function. Also, in extreme cold starting conditions, you will strain the front battery by draining it some before cranking over the engine.(not a big deal, in my opinion)

 

[rickf]

You will set up a serious imbalance in the batteries that way. When charging you will over charge one in order to bring up the other.


Rick

 

[stuinnh]

Never had any battery problems. Same Walmart batteries for 6 years now in one, Other truck just replaced batteries 7 years old. Don't know what to tell you.

 

[3dubs]

Source of short! When I swapped out the filter base I could not see the bottom screw and caught the wire. I just needed some marshmallows.

 

[3dubs]

I am about to search but I wanted to know if I could put a vacume on the bleeder on the fuel filter and just suck the fuel through the system. I just do not want to kill the batteries before the fuel even gets to the engine.

 

[c3bosco]

When are you going to be back out to your dad's place...every time I'm out there I'm tempted to fire your truck up, it looks good to go...

And for the record I don't work on my MVs drunk...only 3dubs'

 

[3dubs]

I just need to get fuel in the lines. My wife's car has a @^&$ computer that will not let it pass the emissions test. It runs fine but the computer says "not ready." I have done everything I just have to drive it now so the computer will reset. But I do not have an inspection sticker to drive it. The short answer is I will be working on it today. I heard some THIEF stole one of my batteries but it should be back now. I think the fuel line where I clamped it may be stuck.

 

[stuinnh]

Vacumm to prime 1009 and other fix

I am about to search but I wanted to know if I could put a vacume on the bleeder on the fuel filter and just suck the fuel through the system. I just do not want to kill the batteries before the fuel even gets to the engine.

I tried that on my 1009 with shop vac. I was desperate! It didn't work at all. Finally put electric fuel pump (12v) in series with the mechanical in the fuel line and took power off key so when the glow plugs triggered so did the fuel pump. It primes the fuel system every time I put the key to on position and both pumps work fine in series. I put electric pump after mechanical one so that it was pulling fuel through the system. It works fine after 6 years.

Oh, if you are going to try cranking it , disconnect the pink wire on top of fuel pump so you don't have vapor lock.

 

[3dubs]

Help!!!!

With c3bosco's help used an attachment to air compressor that sucks. First the fine going into the filter. Then the line going out of the fuel filter. Did you know that diesel vapor really hangs in the air? But when we turned it over the new fuel pump was not pumping. All because I put a new fuel pump on and messed it up. The push rod has fallen and was not pushing the fuel pump. It is stuck and we could not get it out. Turned the engine over but it did not loosen the push rod. I had already been turning it over trying to get fuel so I figured it is already messed up as it is going to get.

Did I mess up the cam? Should I just push it off a cliff? (Houston does not have any cliffs) What could be messed up? What should I check? The rod fell down and was pushed to the side when the new pump was put on.

 

[stuinnh]

24v Electric fuel pump

I would suggest putting an electric one in. You can remove mechanical one, and gm makes a cover for the pump opening. Or, leave the pump in place and attach electric pump in fuel line after mechanical pump. They make 24v pumps too as well as 12v.

 

[stuinnh]

Vac pump for priming fuel filter

You also might try a hand operated vac pump, like you would use to bleed brakes. I can't see why it wouldn't work.

 

[rickf]

No matter what I would not leave the mechanical pump on. You have to pull it off to see what is going on with the rod so even if you don't use it you are sure you don't screw up the cam. An electric pump will take care of a lot of the start up problems you have been having.

Rick

 

[kurtkds]

Not sure is the fuel push rod setup is the same for the Diesel and Gas engines. But on a SB chevy block (Gas) the mechanical pump push rod has to be put in the block before the cam shaft is inserted and pushes down to the fuel pump. So if you don't get it lined up, it drops to the bottom of the cavity and away from the cam. take a pair of pliers and try to lift the rod back up in position and reinsert the mechanical pump. Or like stated earlier you can get a block off plate for the pump and go with an electric pump.


Hope this helps.