M1031 to RV tug..

[LT67]

Gates 33924. Now I hear bad things about Gates. It goes in tomorrow after coolant flush.

I'll say this much, I'm never buying a Gates thermostat again. I've also heard they're quality has gone downhill...

 

[Keith_J]

Great. The local supply is $$$ Going to do Rock Auto and buy one of each brand. Fortunately its two bolts and now the crossover has Helicoils.

 

[Keith_J]

How about a lockup torque converter for the TH400? WHAT? Frog's hair and hen's teeth? No, this is possible just recently. Coan Engineering does a fair bit of custom modifications to the TH400, mostly for the drag strip.

Going to ask for more info but it looks like $1200 for the required transmission input shaft and pump, then it uses any 4L80E converter. No specifics on what controls the clutch (slip speed in the 4L80E, part of the electronic control).

Throw in another $400 for a converter of course. This is worth a few points on highway economy as the 1031 is quite draggy. Would be great for a 1010 and any CUCV towing.

 

[mkcoen]

Coan Engineering does a fair bit of custom modifications to the TH400, mostly for the drag strip.

They mis-spelled the name.

Have you made the move into the object to be towed yet?

 

[Keith_J]

I'm still stalled. OT and family stuff taking up my waking hours. I think I have all requirements nailed on the truck, now its onto wish lists.

 

[Keith_J]

Forget the conversion..all up cost is far more than a 4L80E transplant. So looks like the 4 speed is still on.

Got the thermocouple installed and test ran. Highway 65 MPH wide open is 1200 F. Ouch. So the next upgrade is intake port and polish, cold air intake and possibly water injection.

If the throttle is anything but mashed on the floor, temperature stays below 1000F. Which is a great thing as I can use the transmission downshift switch to signal water injection. Use pulse width modulation based on engine RPM and dial it in to keep temperature under 1100. Shouldn't take much water.

Back from calculations..using a specific heat of air at 1200 F (0.2687 BTU/lb*F), intake air density at 70 F(0.0765 lb/ft^3), water enthalpy of vaporization (552.3 BTU/lb) and a volumetric flow rate of 400 cubic feet per minute, it will take 4.5 pounds of water per minute to keep the exhaust below 900 F. Wow. I realize products of combustion increase mass flow rate by 1.13 pounds per minute but that pales compared to the 30.6 pounds of air per minute. This is a fuel/air ratio of 1/27 which means more fuel is possible, diesel starts to smoke at greater than 1/18.

Water injection has the added benefit of lowering the average molecular weight of the combustion products which means less deviation from the Ideal Gas Law and a slightly more efficient engine. The water shouldn't evaporate before combustion thanks to pressure and Liedenfrost Effect (drops of water levitating on a hot skillet, reducing heat transfer and evaporation).

 

[joshuak]

...Got the thermocouple installed and test ran. Highway 65 MPH wide open is 1200 F. Ouch. So the next upgrade is intake port and polish, cold air intake and possibly water injection.

I remember reading you've adjusted timing, have you increased fuel delivery from the IP at this point?

...Back from calculations..using a specific heat of air at 1200 F (0.2687 BTU/lb*F), intake air density at 70 F(0.0765 lb/ft^3), water enthalpy of vaporization (552.3 BTU/lb) and a volumetric flow rate of 400 cubic feet per minute, it will take 4.5 pounds of water per minute to keep the exhaust below 900 F. Wow. I realize products of combustion increase mass flow rate by 1.13 pounds per minute but that pales compared to the 30.6 pounds of air per minute. This is a fuel/air ratio of 1/27 which means more fuel is possible, diesel starts to smoke at greater than 1/18.

Water injection has the added benefit of lowering the average molecular weight of the combustion products which means less deviation from the Ideal Gas Law and a slightly more efficient engine. The water shouldn't evaporate before combustion thanks to pressure and Liedenfrost Effect (drops of water levitating on a hot skillet, reducing heat transfer and evaporation).

Lovin' it.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Any boost numbers to go with the above data? Just wondering cause I've heard over 15lbs of boost is bad for headgaskets.

 

[Keith_J]

Have not increased max fuel and its atmospherically aspirated..no turbo.

 

[Keith_J]

Thermostat is working fine, so far. I am more interested in the EGTs, been seeing momentary spikes past 1100 but no black smoke. This is with the HPCA solenoid always engaged which should be good for 4-5 degrees of advanced timing. Factory mark on pump is lined up with the mark on the engine.

Snow Water Injection systems has their #212 kit which is designed for a mass air flow sensor's 0-5 volt signal. I can use a 0-5 volt throttle position sensor (eventually needed for a 4L80E swap) to make the water injection rate proportional to throttle and have a secondary nozzle open when the transmission kick down switch is closed. This is looking better..

My idea is the water will be atomized until the injection, then it will flash to steam, keeping EGT under 1000F. At a bare minimum, the piston will receive a good deal of cooling from the water mist. I have calculated the wide open fuel to air ratio is 1:28, smoke begins at 1:18 give or take a few points. If water can keep the EGT in check, 1:20 should offer a considerable boost in performance. And the water will add significantly to the mass flow rate, even if it doesn't aid in combustion..but swap the water with 30% hydrogen peroxide? That would add heat from the dissociation, steam and OXYGEN!!! If only I had a cheap source of it.

 

[Keith_J]

For water injection, I will need two parameters, engine speed and throttle position, both with 0-5 volt analog output. The latter is easy, GM part 10137417 will fit in place of the throttle vacuum regulator (and will be needed for the eventual 4L80E).

For engine speed, I am thinking of using the tach lead off the left alternator, then using an RC circuit after rectification, I should be able to construct a 0-5 volt signal proportional to engine speed..0 volt at idle, 5 volts at 3600 RPM.

These two signals will then be fractionally summed (50% of throttle signal plus 50% of RPM) which will then determine the Snow 212 system mass flow rate in water. The fractions will probably need adjusting due to non-linear fuel rate plus volumetric efficiency losses with speed. Low speed high throttle might even need transmission kick down switch input.

The Goldilock's perfection is bounded by two realities..too much water injection puts the fire out or worse. Too little water and the pistons melt (actually lose strength which is why the top ring rides in a steel channel cast into the crown).

 

[Keith_J]

Next project is former military equipment related..I have a 28 volt 3kW DC generator (MEP 026A) which will be used to power the RV, using a 3kW inverter and a battery bank. Intend to use PLCs to start the generator when battery voltage drops below 24 volts, then once 28 volts is sensed at the breaker, an actuator closes the breaker. Once battery voltage is over 28.5, the breaker will open and the generator stopped.

This will easily power the air conditioner on the RV and be a backup for the 1031's electrical system. This way the RV can stay cool while I am out on the trails with the 1031.

 

[Keith_J]

Switched the horn out to a high low Hella but those are too buzzy. So I am adding Kleinn dual air horns..using a relay so the Hella pair will be on by default, then a switch makes the Kleinns active. I have onboard air, just not always charged tank. I have to fix the leaks and will add another tank. This is the stock PTO powered air system.

 

[Mad Texan]

I installed these and just made jumpers for the second horn... I like the sound! Chrome grill easily removes and the red faces the rad support. Easy upgrade!

https://wolo-mfg.com/horns/electric-replacement-horns/model-320-2t-maxi-sound.html

 

[Keith_J]

Plumbed and wired the air horn, LOVE IT. 150 dB and a great sound. Got the trailer wiring harness perfected, had to run two more circuits through the 12 pin NATO, then modified a trailer harness to a 7 way RV socket. Tested brakes and 12 volt supply. All directional and lights are as designed.

Had a hidden coolant leak, my fault for not torquing a pipe fitting adequately. Now the system holds pressure and retains coolant. I now use anaerobic thread sealant on all pipe threads.

Now onto the Snow water injection system! Decided to go with a two injector setup, one on each plenum. Going to drill and tap the floor so the spray is opposite the direction of airflow to assure mixing time. This will better hide the system.

Now making a remote throttle position sensor (0-5 volt output) and designing a 0-5 volt tachometer sending unit. Both will also be needed for the eventual 4L80e transmission. Since I will be mixing both signals, impedance of the Snow injection module does not matter.

 

[mkcoen]

I'm back from ID so the shop is officially opened for business again but I'm sicker than a dog so you might want to work alone if you need it for anything.

 

[Keith_J]

Tranquility Base here. The Eagle has landed



Pulled fine stock. Now it won't work well in hills, 50 more ponies under the hood and an extra gear ratio or two would be great. EGTs were under 1000 in third gear. Definitely could use more fuel.

Most importantly, it stops on a dime. Only because it has trouble getting over that dime I kid! Acceleration to 45 not a problem, its that gap from 2nd to 3rd. The future TCI 6X will greatly assist with lower first (2.97:1) and two more ratios evenly split.

Hitch height appears high in the above image, it is within 1 inch measured on trailer frame rails. Height is below the axle centerline. The hitch is Class V with weight distribution. Tongue weight is 740 pounds, the weight distribution bars are over capacity at 1000 pound tongue weight. Running 75 PSI on the rear air springs, no change in rear height with the weight distribution system.

 

[joshuak]

Keith, a question if you don't mind. What EGT are you seeing at idle?

 

[Keith_J]

Keith, a question if you don't mind. What EGT are you seeing at idle?

Usually 230 F and lower after 20 seconds or so of street driving. Just starting up? 180 F.

I have been using EGT to help economy, trying to keep the temperature under 600F on the highway.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Under 600 while towing?!