M1102 HMMWV trailer chassis

[cucvrus]

On this HMMWV trailer chassis is it possible to run the 16" GM CUCV pickup wheels. I am going to use the trailer in an applacation that does not require these oversized tires and wheels. I want to get the chassis as low as possible and use the CUCV 16" wheels with 195/75R16 tires.

 

[porkysplace]

Should be fine . Here a thread on it from 2015.

M1101/02 trailers: I need to change the wheels and need the exact size

I have an M1101 trailer and want to pull it with my Wrangler. I don't want to lift the Wrangler any higher so I definitely need to lower the trailer a tad. The trailer i got from GovPlanet is virtually unused although it wads issued to a unit. I want to rumove the HUMVEE wheels and replaced them...

www.steelsoldiers.com

A few pictures with smaller tires in this thread : https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m1102-spare-tire-search.158389/

 

[Jeepadict]

@cucvrus absolutely 100% do-able. Same lugnuts too. I run the OE GM cast aluminum wheels on both my 116A3 and my K25 (tho I need a custom lugnut to do so correctly). Be prepared to see an approx 3" difference in trailer ride height, tho the unsprung weight will be notably reduced. Send it.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[Zed254]

SMALLER! Tires and Wheels for a HMMWV Trailer

An unusual request: I'm looking to find SMALLER wheels and tires that would properly fit on an HMMWV trailer hub. I have a LTT-HC trailer chassis (from which the M1102 HMMWV trailer is built) with a flat bed that I'd like to use as a 'Mule hauler' for my Willys/Kaiser M274A3: LTT-HC Flat Bed...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[Jeepadict]

Wow, that pic looks oddly familiar...hahaha!

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[Guyfang]

Since some of you all seem to have a much better grasp on the HMMWV's and Trailers, (m1101 and m1102, I have a question. There are at least 2 MWO's, Modification Work Orders out for the trailers. I have the MWO's and want to know if anyone figures that they are worth the time to post in the SS Pubs section? If so, I will. If not, then I will drink beer instead.

 

[Zed254]

I think more data is better. I just searched for 'M1101 MWO, trailer problems' on the net and these popped up:

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/trailer/MWO_pt1_M1101.pdf

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/trailer/MWO_pt2_M1101.pdf

Maybe we can both have a beer!!!

 

[Guyfang]

Hi Zed!! Those are the ones I have. I do know for a fact, that there were 3 MWO's for the trailers, but have never seen the last MWO, listed anyplace. Since they are posted in the SS TM Section, we can drink a beer! I am currently holding in my hand, my favorite Beer Stein full of Zwickerla Hell, made by the Brewerie Kundmüller, in Viereth-Trunstadt, Germany. Not far from where I live. And you?

 

[Zed254]

You've got me beat on the beer. It's been awhile since I brewed anything approaching a German beer. This evening I'm sipping an IPA from Sierra Nevada Brewing - the can says brewed in Mills River, NC.

Prost!!

 

[cucvrus]

I am struggling with the brake system. I do not think I have enough push power to activate the surge brakes. I vacuum bled both sides and changed the brake fluid. It had a yellow/green DOT 5 I flushed out the fluid with purple DOT 5. I cannot push in hard enough to activate the brakes and I would think that would be normal. i would hope they would not lock with just 200lbs of man pushing in on the pintle. Also, I think the breakaway has to go completely forward to fully activate the brake lockup. I may be wrong. Anyone know? I used the Mighty Vac and flushed new fluid back thru both sides. It was able to hold 20-25lbs of vacuum until I closed the bleeder and released the suction. I don't think on the ground I am capable of duplicating the trailer traveling down the road and locking the brakes. I hope not. I think it requires much more forward force then I can put on the pintle ring or brake plunger by hand. I am open for suggestions.

 

[Mullaney]

I am struggling with the brake system. I do not think I have enough push power to activate the surge brakes. I vacuum bled both sides and changed the brake fluid. It had a yellow/green DOT 5 I flushed out the fluid with purple DOT 5. I cannot push in hard enough to activate the brakes and I would think that would be normal. i would hope they would not lock with just 200lbs of man pushing in on the pintle. Also, I think the breakaway has to go completely forward to fully activate the brake lockup. I may be wrong. Anyone know? I used the Mighty Vac and flushed new fluid back thru both sides. It was able to hold 20-25lbs of vacuum until I closed the bleeder and released the suction. I don't think on the ground I am capable of duplicating the trailer traveling down the road and locking the brakes. I hope not. I think it requires much more forward force then I can put on the pintle ring or brake plunger by hand. I am open for suggestions.

.
I don't have the official "how to do the job" instructions, but in days gone by a trailer with surge brakes -- backed against a tree -- has worked in the past.

The trailer with a small load on it attempting to back up a small hill will apply the brakes. That is why there is a lockout that is a bolt that drops through the tongue.

Not sure the official amount of "pull" is required on the breakaway bar. Not a lot, but more than a simple pull by hand for sure...

 

[Guyfang]

Description from TM:

3) Breakaway Chain. Attaches to towing vehicle. It will pull the breakaway lever up if the trailer and
towing vehicle uncouple.
(4) Breakaway Lever. Controls the master cylinder. When the lever is up, the brakes are applied. When
it is down, the lunette ring controls the master cylinder.

I was not a truck/trailer guy. But did work more then a bit on this trailer. Its been a while. 2009 maybe? But I seem to remember that the breakaway only locked up the brakes when it was FULLY actuated. Anything in between, caused the brake shoes to apply very little pressure to the drums, but DID NOT STOP the wheels from turning. The lever, has a tooth and "catch" cut out on it.



The clip, item #3 caused the lever to not move back down, when activated. The Pin, that holds the lever in place and allows travel up and down of the lever, was often rusted up, and would leave the lever someplace brake on, and brake off. People drove the trucks and trailers around forever that way.

And no, I never once got the brake to function simply by pushing in on the luette. And I was a bit more heavy then 200 pounds at the time.

This is the "Test" performed after servicing the Service brakes, for the breakaway circuit. This was about all we could do.

21. Engage service brake breakaway lever.

Personnel must stand clear of towing vehicle and trailer during the following brake
check. Failure to follow this warning may result in injury or death to personnel.

22. Attempt to move the trailer with the towing vehicle. Towing vehicle should be in drive, transfer case in
high range, and engine at idle speed. If service brakes do not hold trailer, perform brake system troubleshooting
(Table 4-2).

We did this same test, only driving backwards, to see if the lunette service brakes would work. I never had a great amount of confidence in it.

 

[cucvrus]

No rust here on my breakaway parts. Everything is squeaky clean. I am going to disconnect the gas shock under the pintle ring and put a bar and ratchet strap thru the pintle ring. I am going to hook the other end of the strap to the rear crossmember flange and jack it back. I will be able to see if the brakes are being applied as I have the trailer up on jack stands and the drums turn freely. If they still turn freely with the strap tight I will ponder my next move. I think I have the system bled free of air but this should push more fluid and air if it is still in the system. I know the master cylinder holds pressure. I bench bled it and left it sit a few hours and pushed the lever again. No bubbles went thru the clear tube. That pin hole on the master cylinder output will take a long time to push fluid to the rear wheel cylinders. I am confident that I will figure this out. Thank you for your input. Be Safe and Take Care.

 

[cucvrus]

WE HAVE TRAILER BRAKES. I didn't spend money and buy a special pressure bleeder. I was going to, but I thought about it all day and at 3PM when I came home from work, I worked my magic. I tried the prybar and the long lever. The lever looked like a good tool to knock my teeth out or slip and fall on my knee again. I went and retrieved my HD ratch strap. That was the winner. I had the pintle off and I removed the gas shock. I applied pressure to the pintle ring, and it bottomed out quickly. I did have some brake application and the drums were harder to turn but I could still turn them with resistance. I removed the pintle ring and replaced the gas shock in the pintle ring. I ratchet strapped it tight again and I see the springs on the master cylinder move away as I am tightening up. I go over to the drums and they are tight. Not locked up but tight. I open both bleeders and have perfect airless purple DOT 5 flowing. I mean just cracking the
bleeders and no air all clean fluid. I am convinced that the ratchet strap still cannot duplicate a full stop at 60 MPH and the trailer loaded with 4,000 lbs. I am happy with the results. The trailer brakes work as designed. This is my in-stock designer tool for bleeding surge brakes. I had everything right there and just needed to think it out.

Does anyone know what this tool or part is? It was in the toolbox on the trailer along with 4 copper rods. I was able to remove about 10 more lbs. from the trailer frame. That is the fully extended rear support leg. I won't be using that back there. That is directly under my crusher exit chute. Besides the mount is destroyed. I don't think there is a way to remove this other than a torch or a grinder. I think these are some style of Huck pick or mono bolt. Now that support leg is completely removed, I am going to possibly put stabilizers out at the rear corners. Possibly 2 Bulldog crank jacks. More later. I am going to put a license lamp on top of the left rear fender shining upward so I can mount the license plate on a toolbox I am mounting up on top of the fender. An 18 x 18 x 36 Buyers product sealed lockable box. And 1 of the 3 wheels I have collected is a Ford wheel. It does not ride hub centric, so I am looking for another GM 16" wheel. One wheel was a CUCV wheel, and the other was a civilian wheel. The CUCV wheel has the brass valve stem and the civilian rubber. Hope to find another brass valve stem wheel. The holes are different, and you can't just drill the rubber valve stem out bigger. it doesn't work that way. Take Care and Be Safe. I knew I would figure it out. That is the challenge.

 

[Trailboss]

I believe that tool is a jointed ground rod slide hammer, used to push in and withdraw ground rods.

 

[juanprado]

The wheels should be lug centric not hub centric. Middle hole diameter does not matter.

Large hole valve stem wheels can be more difficult to service as most shops nowadays do not stock those old school valves. I would recommend carrying spares in your tow vehichle don't ask me how I know....

 

[Coug]

Yes, as Trailboss said, that is a slide hammer for driving/removing ground rods. MUCH safer and easier than using a sledge hammer (especially if you were the guy told to hold the ground rod while someone else swung the hammer)

 

[cucvrus]

The center hole goes thru the entire pounder. Explain that.

 

[Guyfang]

The center hole goes thru the entire pounder. Explain that.

OK. The three piece ground rod. Take the first piece and stick it in the ground, Screw in the second piece. Put the slide hammer on the second piece. Raise it up, and bring it down SHARPLY. The first piece WILL go into the ground. Some. Depends on how hard the ground is and how many rocks you hit. Repeat raising the hammer until the first piece is compleatly in the ground, or you get tired of hammering bent over double, or on your knees. Remove hammer. Screw in third ground rod piece. Put hummer on the third piece and repeat all the above steps. I fell in love with the slide hammer the first time I used it. Beats the heck out of sledge hammers ALL day. And for removing the rods, man, that alone makes having one worth a million bucks. I always had a forth piece, so I could drive the third piece all the way into the ground. Norm is 9 feet deep, if possible.

 

[juanprado]

The lug nuts center with the rim. The middle hole just clears the axle but does not center on it that is why non metric ford and dodge wheels can be used.

The lugs seat on the chamfered of the rims that is why there is a slight slop when installing and then the lug seats on the curve of the rim and the rest of the lugs do the same.

Hub centric wheels have smooth lug nuts that pass through the rim and the wheel studs holes are not curved.

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