• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M1165

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,397
4,181
113
Location
Brentwood, Calif
It didn’t look right to me. If truck was running and then needed a pump I would have trusted the marks. Thank you RWH.
When I install new pump I just need to worry about getting the dowel pin in and bolted up then line up the timing marks?
upon removal of the 3 13mm pump bolts through the oil filler, remove the bolt clocked closest to the oval dowel hole last, this leaves you setting the bolt hole next to it at 12 o’clock and dowel hole at 11 o’clock.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,716
19,766
113
Location
Charlotte NC
I think if you read the rules it says you should not TELL someone to go read the TM ;)
.
Suggest that you read... Same deal but nicer - right? And maybe point to a specific page in the PDF. Still can't make some people do it though. Like the horse and leading it to water...
 

Maxjeep1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,338
1,916
113
Location
Las Vegas Nevada
I believe I found the rivet that RWH was talking about. I don’t know what to do about my missing timing marks. I will look again and see if I can find a good reference point.7412FF2A-DAC0-4950-A3EF-EEEE67388884.jpeg
 

Maxjeep1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,338
1,916
113
Location
Las Vegas Nevada
Actually that is just about right.
You can do a search for doing a 6.5L diesel and there are probably allot of vids out there, hard to explain without visual aids, at least for me, civy/HMMWV same procedure.
I’m concerned about my lack of timing marks. I also cleared a path for water. I was able to get that rivet drove thru and I have a hole. I will pour some water in it and see if it drains. I can’t see the rivet and I didn’t want to get too aggressive and go in too deep.9D3DE74E-8710-4CFD-A288-09DC539B4ADF.jpeg
 

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,930
9,584
113
Location
Papalote, TX
Your new pump has timing marks, you should be good to go, I am no expert but I believe the factory may or may not have marked the original pumps, they may have had a different way of doing the initial timing, something to investigate!
EDIT, oh yes I forgot, there is a timing mark under the little side plate or "window" on the pump that can be used to time the pump.
 
Last edited:

Maxjeep1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,338
1,916
113
Location
Las Vegas Nevada
Your new pump has timing marks, you should be good to go, I am no expert but I believe the factory may or may not have marked the original pumps, they may have had a different way of doing the initial timing, something to investigate!
I will have to look into it. I marked the drivers side edge and the corner where it ends at the housing. It will be really close.
 

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,930
9,584
113
Location
Papalote, TX
The old and new housing has no real bearing on the timing, otherwise they would not have put slots in the mounting holes
 

Maxjeep1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,338
1,916
113
Location
Las Vegas Nevada
The old and new housing has no real bearing on the timing, otherwise they would not have put slots in the mounting holes
I thought if I got the new pump in the same spot that would be my timing? I did read about the timing mark Under that cover but I’m not sure how I would use it…
 

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,930
9,584
113
Location
Papalote, TX
NO you cannot use the casting position as a timing reference, every pump is different, that is why it has a timing mark!
 

Maxjeep1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,338
1,916
113
Location
Las Vegas Nevada
I did a little looking and I read that the timing mark on the pump should be center of the slotted bolt hole… I will try to confirm that on my new pump and see if it’s true or not.
 

Maxjeep1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,338
1,916
113
Location
Las Vegas Nevada
I found this image on the World Wide Web. This guy used the corner of the pump and where it ends on the block. That was what I was thinking earlier today. I will try to transfer center of the slotted hole onto the block also. That should give me 2 points of reference and I will be ok.
DE614683-BD07-489D-B8C7-537E738A7E41.jpeg
 

Maxjeep1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,338
1,916
113
Location
Las Vegas Nevada
I got all of the bolts out of the drivers side manifold and it wasn’t too bad. Power steering reservoir will be hard to get out of the way when/if I get around to reinstalling it. I think I can leave my 28” long generator in place. I don’t know how access to the injector lines will be. Find out tomorrow I guess. I’m happy with how it’s going and I hope this will fix my truck. I need to order the fuel inlet that goes in the center of the pump I rounded off a corner of mine trying to get it out and I should have started out with a tubing wrench.
 

Maxjeep1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,338
1,916
113
Location
Las Vegas Nevada
I got the drivers side intake off and I removed the rear fuel lines. I don’t think I can get the front lines off with the generator in place. I will try it again when it cools down. I couldn’t touch anything under the hood that was in the sun. I will get my parts cleaned up in the shade. D7C9B0E2-AA52-4257-897B-09EE20AB5BF9.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Maxjeep1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,338
1,916
113
Location
Las Vegas Nevada
I have everything cleaned up and ready to bolt on. I like the raw aluminum rather the Camo black and aluminum from Melton… I had some parts get delivered a few days ago and some came in today. I ordered some stuff from AM General and it has been 4 separate shipments. I hope I get a few days of good weather so I can get the pump off. E6B8EB41-AF92-4065-A76F-33793A4B780E.jpeg
 

HmmwvTim

Active member
114
95
28
Location
IL
I am the proud owner of a non running M1165. Truck is in really good condition and it has 83 miles since reset by Melton. The engine, transmission and transfer case were replaced in 2014 according to the tags. I had a lot of good help here trying to bring it to life but after going from back to front I/we found out that I need a new injection pump. RWH had it diagnosed in 3 minutes. I have a new injection pump on order and it is back ordered until the 20th of this month. Today I started taking stuff apart and cleaning, tagging and bagging. The intake looked like new inside and I found a t-bolt clamp that Melton had the T sideways and barely holding on. I cleaned the paint off of the upper intake and I will clean the lowers when I get that far. I really want to take the turbo off and clean and paint the valley really good. I don’t think I have the drain and I don’t understand why Melton would cap it off. I can get a better look at it when I get it apart.View attachment 873432View attachment 873433View attachment 873434View attachment 873435
That is a pretty truck. May I ask what the winning bid for this was? Can you post a photo of the driverside splash shield where the headlight wire harness is and the fuel separator drain?
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks