• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M1165

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,414
4,207
113
Location
Brentwood, Calif
NO you cannot use the casting position as a timing reference, every pump is different, that is why it has a timing mark!
I’ve installed hundreds of pumps I think, every pump I’ve ever installed is set the same, scribe mark to scribble mark, same way they come from the factory, this is only a problem for pumps rebuilt by companies that did the rebuild wrong, this is why its important to get The correct pump.
When the scribe is missing on the timing cover, before the pump is removed, put a scribe mark opposite the pumps scribe mark…set new pump at scribe marks.
 

Maxjeep1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,338
1,918
113
Location
Las Vegas Nevada
I started early this morning so I could take advantage of the 90 degree weather. I was able to get the front drivers side fuel lines off. I don’t know how I will ever get them back in. I did like RWH said and left the bolt closet to the dowel for last. I was up and down 10 times trying to get the bolts lined up. I got all of the bolts out thru the oil tube hole and I was nervous about it. I cut up aluminum can and made it fit inside and not drop the bolt. I broke bolt loose and then put the aluminum piece in and then I fished the bolt out with a magnet. Probably not the way to do it but I didn’t want to make more work for myself. I finally got the nuts off, one from the engine bay and 2 thru the doghouse. I have lots of cleaning to do. I’m done until this evening… I finally took my batteries out and I will charge them so they will be ready to go back in. B2C0132E-9006-49D7-A6D2-416BCC7A4B83.jpeg8212A127-1947-4A85-9FC7-FAAECAAEFCAD.jpeg3CD87530-1AFA-434D-BD53-D9F3C0A7D954.jpeg
 

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,414
4,207
113
Location
Brentwood, Calif
I started early this morning so I could take advantage of the 90 degree weather. I was able to get the front drivers side fuel lines off. I don’t know how I will ever get them back in. I did like RWH said and left the bolt closet to the dowel for last. I was up and down 10 times trying to get the bolts lined up. I got all of the bolts out thru the oil tube hole and I was nervous about it. I cut up aluminum can and made it fit inside and not drop the bolt. I broke bolt loose and then put the aluminum piece in and then I fished the bolt out with a magnet. Probably not the way to do it but I didn’t want to make more work for myself. I finally got the nuts off, one from the engine bay and 2 thru the doghouse. I have lots of cleaning to do. I’m done until this evening… View attachment 876542View attachment 876543
use a 13mm or1/2in deep dish socket through the oil filler hole…the bolts do take a dab of red locktite.
use a mirror to line up the holes, use the generator pulley nut to rotate the crank while you look through the mirror to line up the hole. Pull the generator pulley nut towards you to rotate the crank.
 

Maxjeep1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,338
1,918
113
Location
Las Vegas Nevada
I’m doing some cleaning and I noticed that I have back to back triangles cast into my block. Is this the NAVSTAR or international block? Is this one of the good blocks?04880B46-B364-40C9-910B-7117E0A54DE3.jpeg
 

Maxjeep1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,338
1,918
113
Location
Las Vegas Nevada
I’ve installed hundreds of pumps I think, every pump I’ve ever installed is set the same, scribe mark to scribble mark, same way they come from the factory, this is only a problem for pumps rebuilt by companies that did the rebuild wrong, this is why its important to get The correct pump.
When the scribe is missing on the timing cover, before the pump is removed, put a scribe mark opposite the pumps scribe mark…set new pump at scribe marks.
What about when scribe mark is missing on the pump?
 

Maxjeep1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,338
1,918
113
Location
Las Vegas Nevada
I got most of it put together and I was able to start it and it ran for a few minutes. I seen fuel leaking from the front driver side injector and I believe it’s because I don’t have the return line on from injector to injector. I have a leak in the valley and I can’t see where it’s coming from. I went to shut it off and the rotary switch will not kill it. I had to pull the 43A wire off from the injection pump. I was so disgusted 🤮 I will take a look at it tomorrow. I’m happy that it started and I like how clean it looks.
6FCF2FED-3EBB-4A49-B13D-7007907590F7.jpeg83BC6282-AED2-4C7E-AC50-8561AA597904.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Milcommoguy

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
1,713
2,279
113
Location
Rosamond, CA
I got most of it put together and I was able to start it and it ran for a few minutes. I seen fuel leaking from the front driver side injector and I believe it’s because I don’t have the return line on from injector to injector. I have a leak in the valley and I can’t see where it’s coming from. I went to shut it off and the rotary switch will not kill it. I had to pull the 43A wire off from the injection pump. I was so disgusted 🤮 I will take a look at it tomorrow. I’m happy that it started and I like how clean it looks.
View attachment 877575View attachment 877592
Could be a problem ?? Be sure the cold advance and the injector control leads are going to the right spots.

The one with the ribs on the Packard is the cold advance... Go to the rear on the pump.

Easy to swap or flip, CAMO
 

Maxjeep1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,338
1,918
113
Location
Las Vegas Nevada
Could be a problem ?? Be sure the cold advance and the injector control leads are going to the right spots.

The one with the ribs on the Packard is the cold advance... Go to the rear on the pump.

Easy to swap or flip, CAMO
I will have to look tomorrow but when I pulled the connector on the return it stopped running
 

Maxjeep1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,338
1,918
113
Location
Las Vegas Nevada
I found the leak in front drivers side return line was off after I thought I had it on this morning. I got my borescope this morning and it made quick work of finding leaks. I was able to get it in the valley and see that the bottom line is leaking. I couldn’t get in there to tighten it up. I ended up with my tool wedged underneath the turbo. I did that with nothing more than a magnet 🧲
I think I will have to pull everything apart again and start over. Truck runs a little ruff and I hope it will smooth out. I will put some diesel Kleen or whatever it is. I’m sure injectors will appreciate it. I have a transmission leak and it looks like hoses. That’s a picture of the borescope and the picture quality is better than it shows
Oh I had the wires wrong like was suggested here. I had 54A plugged into 315 and I think that’s the time delay thingy
Surprised it started like that. At least I can turn it off with the switch
927BFBE5-8420-4814-8E3E-47BB497FF281.jpeg
 

Maxjeep1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,338
1,918
113
Location
Las Vegas Nevada
This morning I pulled the turbo assembly out and I was able to tighten my injector line. I guess I just missed it or I was bound up on something. I was able to get maybe 3/4 turn on it but that was enough to stop the leak. I got underneath it and cleaned everything up around my transmission line that are leaking. I was able to see that it looks like it’s coming from a T fitting. I ordered new hose from Mac this morning. I will change hoses and clamps and I shouldn’t have to worry about that area for a long time. It starts right up and it seems to be smoothing out. I wanted to check my injector line before I put it back together. I remembered that I needed to blank off the turbo oil feed hole but in the heat of battle I forgot. Hahahaha oil shot straight up and I know I have plenty of pressure! I wish I could have seen my face as I was watching an oil wave covering everything…. I will let it cool down and put it back together. Maybe this weekend I will be able to drive it and test out the run flat…image.jpg
 
Last edited:

Milcommoguy

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
1,713
2,279
113
Location
Rosamond, CA
This morning I pulled the turbo assembly out and I was able to tighten my injector line. I guess I just missed it or I was bound up on something. I was able to get maybe 3/4 turn on it but that was enough to stop the leak. I got underneath it and cleaned everything up around my transmission line that are leaking. I was able to see that it looks like it’s coming from a T fitting. I ordered new hose from Mac this morning. I will change hoses and clamps and I shouldn’t have to worry about that area for a long time. It starts right up and it seems to be smoothing out. I wanted to check my injector line before I put it back together. I remembered that I needed to blank off the turbo oil feed hole but in the heat of battle I forgot. Hahahaha oil shot straight up and I know I have plenty of pressure! I wish I could have seen my face as I was watching an oil wave covering everything…. I will let it cook down and put it back together. Maybe this weekend I will be able to drive it and test out the run flat…View attachment 877780
Be safe... About the time the turbo kicks in, that tire is going to let loose. I know you made a funny about it, but this is what one get from the auctions.

Let's WOT and see what it will do, CAMO

360_F_298947242_W8xTr2CGui3rAwduNNvU3TBYTJUsIaNf.jpg
 
Last edited:

Maxjeep1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,338
1,918
113
Location
Las Vegas Nevada
Let it run about 20 minutes and it’s not overheating or nothing. Front and rear ac blow cold but I think it might need a little charge. I can’t put the oil filler tube on until I get the 2 new studs. I couldn’t get them off and they came out with the studs. I need a new tire and some parts to come in and I should be ready for a 3 mile road-trip…. I’m going to change the oil again after 100 miles. It seemed thin when I drained all 10 quarts… I think I had a bad fuel pump and it was letting fuel get into oil if that’s possible….
 

Maxjeep1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,338
1,918
113
Location
Las Vegas Nevada
I have zero power steering. Wheel will not budge. It’s low on fluid and I don’t know what’s in there. Can I add Dex III to it? I don’t think fluid is my problem but it’s a start. Fluid looks clean and filter is good. I have a flat front tire but it should still have some movement in it. I can’t turn wheel a inchimage.jpg
 

GTUnit

Active member
123
153
43
Location
CA
Does simply turning the pump up provide benefit? Does one need to increase the boost or change anything else?
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks