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None of the ones I have dismantled had any, two machined surfaces with a little vacuum applied does not need much in the way of sealing, re-use the old one of not torn.
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M1165
- Thread starter Maxjeep1
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I received my Wicked II turbo wheel today and I heated up in the oven for 10 minutes at 200 degrees and I had the pedestal in the freezer overnight. Wheel went on and it was tight. The new wheel is a lot different than the stock wheel. I assembled everything and put anti seize on everything that went into the exhaust and I put thread sealer on the bolts for the snail section on the charge side. I got a call back from HPG and I asked if I could add a inlet gasket to my order and he said sure and he said he will give it to me and my injection pump should ship on Wednesday. I had the valley of the engine dry and it rained so hard a few minutes ago that it’s wet again from my turret hole. I can start taking the IP, intake and fuel lines out so I can clean and get ready for my new pump. I worry about setting timing right and I hope when I get the new pump I can see the timing mark and it might make more sense to me. So far so good!
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The wheel makes the little bitty turbo work more efficiently. I dont want to mess with boost until I get it running and see what’s going on with stock boost before I change it. I was looking at a manual waste gate that I might add after I get it running. I don’t think wheel will make much difference but if I add a little more fuel and a few pounds of boost it should make it better. I want to straight pipe it at a later time. Congratulations on your new truck!
I love mine even if it doesn’t run… My M1123 runs perfect and I think it spoiled me needing very little work.
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If you go to the HMMWV hotrod forum there is a simple conversion, no need to spend any money making the waste gate adjustable.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/turbo-waste-gate-conversion-to-adjustable.209441/
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/turbo-waste-gate-conversion-to-adjustable.209441/
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So you now have an unbalanced turbo charger. These things turn over 100,000 RPM and slight imbalance will make the bearings wear extremely quickly. You should never replace a turbo wheel without rebalancing. Instead you can buy a balanced turbo cartridge pretty cheaply.
I think you are destined to repeat this job in the near future.
My apologies for being so direct. It’s just that I’ve seen this before.
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The wheel is balanced just like the one I took off. The stock wheel just spins on the shaft when it’s loose there is no keyway or nothing. I seen the dimple on the back of the new wheel from being balanced.
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You get 5 more pounds of boost and you should be able to feel the difference.
So that spring and cap is underneath the cap you ground off?
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Yes the the intake impeller and the exhaust turbo wheel/shaft are balanced separately so he is good.
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Yes, all you need is a grinder, a 10-24 die, a couple 10-24 nuts, a drill bit to drill out the cap a little (it is a little undersized to slip over the shaft) and a torch to anneal the shaft before tapping the threads, most shafts like this are hard drawn (cheaper) this makes them hard and tough to thread, just heat the area of the shaft you are going to thread up to a dull (cherry) red and let it cool "naturally".
Be careful to grind only enough off of the end of the shaft to release the cap and also there will be a little bit of stored energy when you get the cover ground enough to come off.
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Is this where you installed your EGT probe?
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Yes, it is where the two streams (left and right) come together so it give a "composite" value.
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I started my Mogman turbo waste gate. I think it’s going to work out good. I need to get a die. I will probably use a nylon locking nut and maybe a wing nut until I get boost adjusted right. This is what I got so far… 
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interesting, you removed the entire can.. Looks good!
You will find the adjustment is not very "sensitive" just start with the length shown in my picture, that should get you to about 8-10psi
You will find the adjustment is not very "sensitive" just start with the length shown in my picture, that should get you to about 8-10psi
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You like the can gone?
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Can you show me where you mounted your boost and EGT gauges? I looked around and I didn’t see a great location for 2 gauges
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I put the EGT gauge where the air filter warning gauge was, I just hooked up a boost gauge temp, it is not needed day in and day out.
And the air filter gauge is useless unless you are crossing the Sahara desert
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Do you think I really have a need for EGT gauge? You are getting lower temps than before. I agree once boost is set not much reason to have it. EGT is probably more useful than air filter gauge
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I think an EGT gauge is a good idea if you do any mods to your turbo engine, there are times and conditions that may warrant modifying your driving to reduce EGT temps, it is the most monitored gauge on both the Detroit (6.5L GEP turbo) and the DuraVee (6.6L Duramax turbo) trucks I have.
EDIT, I do push both pretty hard though...
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What EGT gauge did you get to fit into the air filter hole?