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M275A2 DOA but now RUNS!
- Thread starter Shrapnel
- Start date
All my problems are solved!
I worked on bypassing the FDC yesterday and ran into a snag without time to fix. I ended up denting the brass fitting on the hydraulic head inlet when trying to reposition it that I couldn't use my original fuel line. (I was swapping the return and supply fuel lines to have enough slack for the FDC bypass).
Of course there wasn't anything available at the normal hardware and auto parts houses that had the right flare (at least, not in stock). By the way, anyone know if this is a standard JIC type hydraulic flare or something?
I resorted to using my make-something-work mentality and ended up using brass hose barbs with fuel injector line (rated for higher PSI than normal fuel line) to make a temporary fuel line from the filter outlet to the IP inlet.
No leaks, went for a test drive, and HAD TONS OF POWER EVERYWHERE! I'm getting about 7psi of boost under load. I was going easy on it as I don't have an EGT gauge yet but all of my super-slow issues have been resolved (at least temporarily)!
Have to slow down on the project as I'm getting my M1009 ready for the Haspin rally this week and my wife has a list waiting for me afterwards. It's currently parked (as pictured) awaiting me to put on an EGT gauge, install my external brake reservoir, and other small items like that to get it ready for registration and road tripping. FEELS AWESOME TO BE AT THIS POINT!
I worked on bypassing the FDC yesterday and ran into a snag without time to fix. I ended up denting the brass fitting on the hydraulic head inlet when trying to reposition it that I couldn't use my original fuel line. (I was swapping the return and supply fuel lines to have enough slack for the FDC bypass).
Of course there wasn't anything available at the normal hardware and auto parts houses that had the right flare (at least, not in stock). By the way, anyone know if this is a standard JIC type hydraulic flare or something?
I resorted to using my make-something-work mentality and ended up using brass hose barbs with fuel injector line (rated for higher PSI than normal fuel line) to make a temporary fuel line from the filter outlet to the IP inlet.
No leaks, went for a test drive, and HAD TONS OF POWER EVERYWHERE! I'm getting about 7psi of boost under load. I was going easy on it as I don't have an EGT gauge yet but all of my super-slow issues have been resolved (at least temporarily)!
Have to slow down on the project as I'm getting my M1009 ready for the Haspin rally this week and my wife has a list waiting for me afterwards. It's currently parked (as pictured) awaiting me to put on an EGT gauge, install my external brake reservoir, and other small items like that to get it ready for registration and road tripping. FEELS AWESOME TO BE AT THIS POINT!
- 3,280
- 3,445
- 113
- Location
- NORTH (Canada)
Good to hear. We all love simple fixes to what could be complex problems.
- 3,280
- 3,445
- 113
- Location
- NORTH (Canada)
The trick is to have items on the list that can only be completed with a working Deuce!
Summertime Update
My truck is now road legal! I commuted to work twice last week during some great weather. Drives smooth, I'm getting better at shifting (double clutching as I'm not good enough to not use the clutch), no major concerns at the moment.
I installed an EGT gauge with my boost gauge and have maxed out around 1150 F so far and about 10 psi of boost. I need to install a bezel and actually mount the gauges, but they work just fine even with the cable ties holding them! I think I can get the EGT higher if I have a long grade or I'm hauling, but for driving around unloaded I haven't had any temperature concerns yet.
I also removed the bedsides. I think it looks better without them and I can see behind me better with just the flatbed.
Current plan is to continue changing fluids (still have diffs and transfer case to do), adjust my parking brake, monitor hub temps and DRIVE IT! Future plans include wiring up bed ligts, fixing my rusty hardtop, finding 12.00R20 tires for spares, and everything else that is never-ending about owning an old steed.
My truck is now road legal! I commuted to work twice last week during some great weather. Drives smooth, I'm getting better at shifting (double clutching as I'm not good enough to not use the clutch), no major concerns at the moment.
I installed an EGT gauge with my boost gauge and have maxed out around 1150 F so far and about 10 psi of boost. I need to install a bezel and actually mount the gauges, but they work just fine even with the cable ties holding them! I think I can get the EGT higher if I have a long grade or I'm hauling, but for driving around unloaded I haven't had any temperature concerns yet.
I also removed the bedsides. I think it looks better without them and I can see behind me better with just the flatbed.
Current plan is to continue changing fluids (still have diffs and transfer case to do), adjust my parking brake, monitor hub temps and DRIVE IT! Future plans include wiring up bed ligts, fixing my rusty hardtop, finding 12.00R20 tires for spares, and everything else that is never-ending about owning an old steed.
- 3,280
- 3,445
- 113
- Location
- NORTH (Canada)
You are doing the right thing. The Spicer is a synchronized transmission and they really do not like clutch-less shifting. In fact, Eaton, the makers of some 80% of the heavy truck manual transmissions, ask the operators in their manual to please clutch/double clutch their unsynchronized transmissions.
They say "always use normal doubleclutching procedures when making lever shifts". Page 8, if anyone is interested:
http://www.roadranger.com/ecm/group...roadranger/documents/content/rr_trdr-0800.pdf
Long term wear and tear data seem to show that the "experts" that shift clutch-less may keep the clutch alive for longer, but actually shorten transmission lifespans. Humans are imperfect and do get tired (and maybe a little deaf) and shift quality varies greatly.
None of this matters, because for over 40 years people have felt that they reach the pinnacle of driverdom by shifting clutch-less, evidence be darned, so that won't change. I guess they know better than the people that make these transmissions.
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Clutchless sifting ? I had a model 359 Peterbilt with twin spicers in it (both unsynchronized) and managed to get 704,000 miles out of it without touching the trans. Had Jake which facilitated upshifts. Before that had a B model Mack with a triplex in it and a SMALL engine which means a lot of shifting. If you had to kick the clutch twice for every shift you would be a cripple. M123s also adopt well to clutchless shifting. Just remember with a M60 tank on your back you are loaded out to 160,000 pounds so good driving techniques are essential. M35s, 809 series trucks have synchromesh transmissions and use of the clutch is required for those.