M35a2 fuel cutoff rod springs back to firewall 5 o'clock position when cover removed

[rustystud]

You might just have to "bite the bullet" and take it into a "Injection Pump repair shop" (not just any Diesel shop) . Then after they fix it have them show you what was wrong. Then if it ever happens again you'll know how to fix it. I know this will cost some money, but in the long run might be better for you then just replacing the whole pump.

 

[rockbronco]

I may do that though even if I buy a pump to get my rig back up and running (My Deuce is used for logging, Ive been using my old beat up ford for 3 weeks now just doesnt compare) I would have my original rebuilt and put on the shelf for years down the road I can only imagine these pumps will climb in price as my Deuce ages.

When and if I get the pump repaired I will post what the root cause was if that can determined outside of the vehicle.

I'm not quite done messing with the IP just yet, I worked on it last night for a few hours, I used the low idle adjustment to get the fuel cut of lever to sit at 6 o'clock and was able to get her to idle at 800 for quiet some time the only issue was whenever load was put on the engine below 1000rpm she would stall if I didnt give a little more pedal.

Starting to suspect the governor due to the IP not adjusting properly for additional load, Im going to check the governor springs in the rear housing contemplating trying the 50 cent trick just as a test and I think I will adjust the droop a bit before I throw in the towel.

Question I'm running code E pump now and have been looking at replacement pumps online which mostly are code G with no FDC installed are there any gotchas or considerations in swapping from a E to a G or will it be a bolt on time it and go swap?

 

[rockbronco]

On that note I have been researching Injection pumps online and it seems ebay is around $1000.00 and CC and Eastern surplus are north of that around $1200.00 any one out there that can suggest other places to buy them at reasonable prices?

 

[rockbronco]

Freshly rebuilt IP on its way from my friends in Utah, I plan on installing it in the next week and will update this thread with the results.

I'm going to begin researching my area for someone to rebuild the pump being removed and give me a description of the problems found.

 

[Jeepsinker]

$1000 isn't bad. I really like my G code pump, but I've never seen an LDS pump that didn't have an Fdc.

 

[rockbronco]

So the new IP arrived today , I noticed the FDC is fully plumbed on the new IP so I will be bypassing that prior to installation. I have a question regarding the install I am hoping to get some advice on here.

I plan to set the engine to TDC (LDT) prior to removing the original IP and verifying the timing marks on the IP and HH are also present under the IP inspection cover (pump front section) and under the fuel cut off rod cover of the original IP, with the engine in this position and the new IP timed will I be able to install the new IP without any additional timing changes essentially bolt-in installation?

 

[RAYZER]

TDC compression stroke,you should be able to see #2 exhaust valve open looking through the oil fill cap.
Timing mark on ip through square window on top of the pump with red gear tooth in sight through fuel shutoff cover, line up the timing mark on the ip and tighten the slotted gear.

 

[m-35tom]

TDC compression stroke,you should be able to see #2 exhaust valve open looking through the oil fill cap.
Timing mark on ip through square window on top of the pump with red gear tooth in sight through fuel shutoff cover, line up the timing mark on the ip and tighten the slotted gear.

key words red tooth 'in sight' but not lined up with anything as it is not a timing mark.
and yes if you do that you don't have to worry about where the valves are assuming it was a running truck with all correct before.
if you bypass the fdc, you really need to check egt or at least the boost as it will now get too much fuel.

 

[rockbronco]

Very good running prior to this issue , still runs good above 1000RPM but wont hold idle.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yes, as said,
Turn to mark on balancer
Check indicator on advance unit(under the little 4 bolt cover- in front of Hyd Head)
Check to see if red/scored tooth is visible.

Good to go.

I am un-sure if you know it or not, but there is 3 bolts on the IP drive gear. Loosen those to put IP in and line up timing. Then snug them down once "in time".

 

[rockbronco]

Do I have to fully removed the IP timing gear or can I remove the bolts and leave the gear in place while I install the new pump?

 

[RAYZER]

Remove the 3 bolts that secure the gear and remove the gear so it's out of the way.

 

[gimpyrobb]

6 of 1, half dozen another. I usually put it in with the gear on but loose. Looks like Rayzer puts it on w/o the gear installed.

 

[rockbronco]

Installed the IP yesterday, day started out at 4F and about 8 hours later as I finished in the dark it had gotten to 16F WOW what a long job to do outside this time of year. The original pump removal was by far the longest part of this project I did not remove the radiator, the PTO shaft , fender or any steering components. I have a 5 ton hydraulic steering set up on the outside of frame rail so nothing was in the way of the IP.

I timed the Engine and original pump prior to removal at least I timed the engine perfectly but found that the shaft on the forward section of the IP under the 4 bolt window was not perfectly aligned with the indicator on the pump housing it was before the line by nearly 1/4 inch (this is with the pump still fully installed and engaged with the engine timing gear.) and if I lined up the IP then the engine would be 3/16 past its intended timing mark.
I decided in the end to time the engine to its timing indicator and time the new pump to bring both lines(engine timing line, IP timing line under 4 bolt cover) to there intended positions.
Timing the IP with the gear under the engine timing cover was fairly quick and I had timed the new IP on the work bench prior to installing it so it was a very straight forward bolt in.

All and all the job went as well as could be expected outside in the cold with a trusty salamander heater aimed at my back for most of the job, engine fired fairly quick it did take a pump of the pedal to get it to turn over but once it fired it was good. Idle was set very low on new IP about 550RPM so I set it to just over 800RPM which is where my last pump had been set to ,it holds idle steady and can once again move the truck in first and reverse with no additional pedal required.

The old pump I did not dig into much yet but worth noting was injector port #2 on the HH was leaking and the fuel inside the HH was very clean and no visible debris.

Thank you all for your tips and advise, I had hoped I would have found resolution to the original problem during removal but will have to look further into that pump and post findings.

 

[m-35tom]

so someone in the past probably mistook the red tooth for a timing mark. glad you got it all done ok. when you take the HH off and apart there is a simple way to check for wear. remove the plunger and hold it in your hane for a few seconds, 5 to 10 should do it. it now will not go back in the bore. if it will it is worn to much to work.

 

[oddshot]

I timed the Engine and original pump prior to removal ... I timed the engine perfectly but found that the shaft on the forward section of the IP under the 4 bolt window was not perfectly aligned with the indicator on the pump housing it was before the line by nearly 1/4 inch (this is with the (OLD) pump still fully installed and engaged with the engine timing gear.) and if I lined up the IP then the engine would be 3/16 past its intended timing mark.

I know this is an old thread, but I'm chasing down a problem with my truck and am leaving no stone unturned.

As I read this post ... it seems that the "OLD" pump had been timed incorrectly. When he installed the new pump, the truck started and ran fine.

Is it possible all that was wrong with this truck was that the old IP was installed/timed wrong?

I wonder what would have happened had he aligned the marks correctly and just stuck to the old pump.

.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Is it possible all that was wrong with this truck was that the old IP was installed/timed wrong?

I wonder what would have happened had he aligned the marks correctly and just stuck to the old pump.

Yup.
You'll never know unless he sends me the pump to try out, or installs it back on his motor to try out.

 

[rustystud]

Considering the levers would not go back to there proper positions I believe some spring or rod was either broken or bent or who knows what. Either way the Injection pump needed rebuilding.

 

[Big Z]

Bump..
I've got the same thing going on. Runs like a top with some throttle set to hold 1000+ RPMs; reliably and rapidly slows down and dies without adding some throttle. Arm moves freely and settles in the 5 oclock position. Curious if anyone here has fixed this symptom on their own.

 

[m-35tom]

classic sign of worn out HH. won't idle, hard to start, once running seems to be ok but it won't be for long.