M35a2 oils

[rustystud]

BTW, if anyone is thinking about doing contract work for that company, please PM me and ask me why I call them that. I have experience working for a multi-national company in the stores and as an independent contractor in a small market.

Oh I believe you ! I have seen documentaries on this outfit that explain how they can under-sell everyone else.

 

[jking615]

Hey rustystud. I have read through this forum for the most part, and am wondering what you are currently running in your Deuce as through this thread you have changed products and weights. I am just purchasing my first MV and am wondering wondering what the master uses. Thanks in advance for the help. I don't want to booger up a perfectly nice Deuce from my own ignorance and stupidity.

 

[rustystud]

Hey rustystud. I have read through this forum for the most part, and am wondering what you are currently running in your Deuce as through this thread you have changed products and weights. I am just purchasing my first MV and am wondering wondering what the master uses. Thanks in advance for the help. I don't want to booger up a perfectly nice Deuce from my own ignorance and stupidity.

I'm running Synthetic Rotella "T" 10-40W in my engine and Shell Spirax 50w synthetic gear oil in my transmission and transfer-case. The differentials get 80-90W synthetic gear oil. I had been using 80-90W in all my gears but after talking with the transmission expert at "Tremec" I had a change of mind. I also run Dello 10-40W synthetic engine oil when it comes up on sell too.

 

[jking615]

I'm running Synthetic Rotella "T" 10-40W in my engine and Shell Spirax 50w synthetic gear oil in my transmission and transfer-case. The differentials get 80-90W synthetic gear oil. I had been using 80-90W in all my gears but after talking with the transmission expert at "Tremec" I had a change of mind. I also run Dello 10-40W synthetic engine oil when it comes up on sell too.

Thank you very much. It's so nerve racking learning everything. A lot of new information to take in all at once.

 

[rustystud]

Thank you very much. It's so nerve racking learning everything. A lot of new information to take in all at once.

Don't let it get to you. Take everything as it comes and you will do fine ! The most important thing to remember is "have fun" with your Deuce ! I take great joy from my truck, from driving it to working on it. In fact my wife calls it "the other woman" !

 

[jking615]

Don't let it get to you. Take everything as it comes and you will do fine ! The most important thing to remember is "have fun" with your Deuce ! I take great joy from my truck, from driving it to working on it. In fact my wife calls it "the other woman" !

My Fiance is just crazy enough to want one as well, but once it makes it to Florida, it's going to have an easy life. Parked indoors, going to car shows, and the occasional romp in the local woods for firewood. I don't have a need for one, but I have always had a want for one. Every tuesday, I am going to run it at the local car club. I expect either a fantastic trip, or a massive flop, but either way I am going to be smiling the whole way.... or at least until my rump feels like it spent the night in San Francisco. I got lucky with my find. It does have the springer seats at least.

 

[brian s]

why do you run 10-40 vs 15-40?

 

[brian s]

i was thinking about synthetic oil in my deuce but was not sure it wood like it. i can get red line oil for a good price and was going to use that in the motor,axles transfercase and trans

 

[OilfieldRoughneck]

why do you run 10-40 vs 15-40?

I like thinner oil for winter use. Helps on really cold starts.

 

[Jeeper10]

Thank you, this is very useful info especially as a newbie

 

[rustystud]

why do you run 10-40 vs 15-40?

Basically because it's cheaper around here !

 

[Floridianson]

The yellow metal safe feature is important as most early jeep transmissions have yellow metal parts. In the past, some GL5 rated gear oils were found to attack yellow metal parts (as found in synchronizers).

Agreed. I found the best thing if you worry about the transmissions is Google the oil that is in question and see in the list of additives if sulfur one of them. The Delo trans. I get is a pretty penny but no sulfur.
Just that easy the op's oil for the trans, has sulfur/phosphorus so if you are looking for an oil with no sulfur this is not the one. Don't want to argue oils just google if you want too know what is in any oil.
http://mil-specproducts.com/Documents/547_PDS-SPIRAX HD 80W90.pdf

 

[A Blind Man]

I'm running Synthetic Rotella "T" 10-40W in my engine and Shell Spirax 50w synthetic gear oil in my transmission and transfer-case. The differentials get 80-90W synthetic gear oil. I had been using 80-90W in all my gears but after talking with the transmission expert at "Tremec" I had a change of mind. I also run Dello 10-40W synthetic engine oil when it comes up on sell too.

That shell spirax 50w, do you mean Spirax s6 gME 50? I can't seem to find another with 50w, and if so who do you get it through, local vendor or elsewhere?

 

[doghead]

Others have seen failures in the trans with synthetic.

Do your homework before you put your faith in what you read on the internet.

 

[brianp454]

What is any of that supposed to mean?

I have no doubt that there have been failures using synthetic, conventional, or blends. “No failures” is not a reasonable standard as you have no idea what really caused the failure. A better question or standard is: Does a given oil reduce failure rates, increase up time, minimize wear, etc?

Are you trying to imply that data sheets, specs, or info published by manufacturers online is less reputable than through some other source?
I’ve been watching my gear boxes (especially the transmission) closely and pull the fill plugs from time to time and check the chips on the magnets. Have any of you done this periodically and kept notes?

My transmission had oil\water muck in it when I got it with lots of metal chips. The side plate for PTO has a pitted rust line on the lower ½ or so and there was rust here and there all over. My hunch is that the truck was ran through a river or flooding without getting the fluids drained… I did 3 flushes and cleanings with conventional 80-90W before the chip level seemed to level off and nearly stop. I’m running synthetic blend and pulled the fill plug a couple days ago to find few if any new chips in a few hundred mile period. Will keep an eye on it.

Others have seen failures in the trans with synthetic.

Do your homework before you put your faith in what you read on the internet.

 

[doghead]

IIRC, second gear does not have the same type of bearing/bushing(I dont recall the specifics).

When synthetic was used, it burned or galled or something. I don't recall the specifics.

The point of my post was, members have seen failures in their transmissions with synthetic.

So, do your homework, make your decisions, and learn from your mistakes.

I like to learn from others mistakes and at their costs$$$.

 

[Tracer]

I admit to being a bit old fashioned and run Rotella T 15-40W + 1qt. tb zinc-plus in the engine, NAPA GL1 in the transmission & transfer-case, & 80-90W synthetic in the diffentials.

 

[rustystud]

IIRC, second gear does not have the same type of bearing/bushing(I dont recall the specifics).

When synthetic was used, it burned or galled or something. I don't recall the specifics.

The point of my post was, members have seen failures in their transmissions with synthetic.

So, do your homework, make your decisions, and learn from your mistakes.

I like to learn from others mistakes and at their costs$$$.

Like anything, you must use the "proper" oil for the application. Those who said they used synthetic and then had failures were they using the correct fluid ? The one I mentioned is used by "Meritor" and other major manufactures and our transit department. It has a proven track record. Your right in saying check everything you read on the internet, especially peoples opinions.

 

[rustystud]

That shell spirax 50w, do you mean Spirax s6 gME 50? I can't seem to find another with 50w, and if so who do you get it through, local vendor or elsewhere?

Yes that is the oil I was referring too. There is a commercial supplier a few miles from me. If you buy in bulk they will sell to you without a having a business license. You just pay the taxes.

 

[Two Stroke Madness]

IIRC, second gear does not have the same type of bearing/bushing(I dont recall the specifics).

When synthetic was used, it burned or galled or something. I don't recall the specifics.

The point of my post was, members have seen failures in their transmissions with synthetic.

So, do your homework, make your decisions, and learn from your mistakes.

I like to learn from others mistakes and at their costs$$$.

Okay... I guess I'll have to throw my hat into this crap-fest you guys have started. The difference between a conventional oil and a Group IV synthetic oil is actually very minute. Group IV synthetics are PAO oils (Poly Alpha Olefin). An olefin is an oil molecule that is derived from the fatty acids of plants and animals. Sounds familiar dosen't it? The dinosaur oil that we pull out of the ground is also derived from the fatty acids of plants and animals. The oil molecules in dinosaur oil are not chained together very well. However we can control this chaining process when we're creating our synthetics. This is why synthetics are more stable and resistant to breakdown. This is also why they are so expensive. The oil companies have been trying to make conventional oils better and better throughout the years to save costs, and they've been able to do this by hydrocracking the oil. When you hydrocrack a conventional oil it forms the olefins into better chains. The big oils companies consider this to be a process of synthesizing the oil, and they can legally label it to be a synthetic oil on the bottle even though it's actually nothing more than dinosaur oil.