M939A2 A/C Compressor Mount Kit, Pass Side, Factory Serpentine Drive

[74M35A2]

No order received. Your mom take your allowance?

 

[infidel got me]

I didn't make it to the bank on sat. but I will go mon. morning. I'm having to help my mom with doctor bills, just what kind of STD did you give her? The doctor said to let everyone that you have had relations with know that you may have given them a STD, so you better inform your sisters and cousins.

 

[infidel got me]

I found your sisters purse under my bed so your payment has been sent cuz.

 

[madcroc1]

Is there any issue with the belt wrap only 90 degrees on the alternator pully, the original was 180 deg ? I'm curious if there is any slippage or squeaking on the alternator?

 

[74M35A2]

Excellent question, but no issue. My design followed the original Cummins layout for this same engine when originally equipped with A/C from the factory. Please notice the alternator belt wrap they did as production. The civilian alternator is about the same total load, 120A @ 12V:

 

[74M35A2]

Parts just arrived for the initial batch of builds. If you already ordered, yours should ship out by this Friday.

 

[infidel got me]

Received my a/c bracket today, looks like a good quality piece! Now another project that I cross off my bucket list. Thanks 74m-- I will mount it on my engine as received---- is that satin pink heat resistant? hahaha

 

[74M35A2]

Big 3 digit price drop on these kits on now free shipping. Check classifieds, make ice cubes.

 

[grendel]

....

double post.

 

[grendel]

I want one, with a 12V alternator mount provision ... and I need to find a hot rod 24v alternator too. Tried sending you a PM, but your box is full... must be that STD that Infidel gave you?

 

[74M35A2]

Funny. I'm popular. Try again. Need better clarity on what you want to do (add A/C and have 2 alts all same truck?). Or toss me your number and we can compare fishing stories.

 

[grendel]

I plan to put a 12v alt on the other side, using the HVAC AC bracket that came with my red dot kit.

 

[fiero11]

You still making these kits and what's included and how much? I could not find the link to the classifieds showing this. It said no post available, but I'm interested in one...fiero11.

 

[74M35A2]

Hello, I am. I'll renew the ad when I can, but also feel free to just PM me. Here are a few pics:

 

[FullSpecial]

Did you reindex the tensioner? I found it will swing into the fan hub if you don't.

 

[74M35A2]

It is not absolutely required to index it, but I do highly advise it, partially for the reason you said. It is a simple task of drilling a single hole in the tensioner bracket. I also recommend to cut off one stop ear on the tensioner so it can be opened further, and to also make a new longer lower alternator brace. This is just a piece of 5/16" x 1" flat steel bar stock with a single hole in each end. By doing this, you will be able to set the belt length and tensioner position relationship, so it will work well regardless of what alternator or compressor clutch diameter is used, with only a single belt length. Use Vice-Grips or a C-clamp to position the alternator lower ear on the lower brace in different positions, and test fit the belt on, then relax the tensioner and see how everything looks. Adjust as necessary, drill your hole in it, then cut off the remaining lower alternator bracket length. This sounds like a lot of work but it is not at all. It goes very quickly, and allows you to setup your serpentine drive exactly how you want for tensioner position and belt length. The water pump pulley is non-flanged, so I advise to slip the belt over this pulley last since it is easiest and needs the least amount of slack to do so. I'll attach pics of the 360 degree adjustable tensioner bracket I made (3/8" steel plate, 5" x 5"), but I only used the next hole clockwise from stock location, and that can be drilled into the stock tensioner bracket, without needing to make a "revolver of holes" type bracket like I did. I wasn't sure where it would need to end up so I made it that way. Used transfer punches to copy over the original hole locations, then just eye-balled the remaining circle of holes and went to town on a drill press. Ended up not needing but one of them. Oh well. Part of development. Also notice the alternator lower bracket as a plain steel bar in fit trials with clamp and finalized with hardware and cut short. The disassembled pic is only if your tensioner bracket won't easily come off. They are 2 Allen head bolts, mine did not cooperate, so I removed the thermostat housing, drilled the heads off, removed the bracket, and the bolts remains then spun out by hand. Replacement Cummins bolts are Torx head, so, slightly better. The tensioner bracket bolts to the thermostat housing and comes off with it, so this can easily be accomplished on a work bench or vice if you also need to drill out your 2 countersunk tensioner bracket bolts. But honestly, once off with the T-stat housing, just leave the tensioner bracket attached and drill it like it is, then reassemble the entire housing onto the engine. The 10 O'clock hole is the stock position, and the 11:30 hole position I used (next one clockwise) makes it an absolute perfect fit, especially when the limiting tensioner stop ear is sliced off to allow it to open further (this ear seems to only be useful when an opposite spring is installed in this same housing to limit the hard stop point). The upper compressor bracket has oval slots in it also, so it's fore-aft position is adjustable for belt alignment. Working stock alternator which was removed during this upgrade is listed in classifieds if anybody wants a known and tested good one/spare.

 

[infidel got me]

Man, that was some write up Hemmingway. My eyes hurt and I'm sleepy after reading that. 74m's rendition of war and piece! whew--- You got some index fingers. baaaaahhhaaaaa

 

[74M35A2]

Peace?

 

[infidel got me]

No piece--- as in piece of-- not peace out. If the a/c bracket thing don't work for you, I heard the grammar police is hiring!

 

[infidel got me]

Remember starter boy---- red wire is usually HOT.