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Made it home with my new 1009

seabee mike

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Well the cheap black primer backfired on me. it reacted with good pri mer. So i have been sanding and stripping the areas that cracked. I hope it does not react with the new sand paint I ordered.
 

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kf4hoq

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Rock Hill, SC
You're really making some progress! Can you explain the concept of the washers in how you used them when pulling out the dents to a guy who has never dont bosy work? :beer:
 

seabee mike

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I have ordered new rubber for all the doors and windows, I ordered 2 Gal of paint. Got a new mirror, I have made a contact for the door sill plates. I have a warn 24v winch. Not sure what I will do with that. I got it with another truck as a free bee and it has sat for8 years now. I have mare contacts for the vinyl letters and numbers. I will need a new windshield and rear window in the future. Both are really scratched. I still need a new drivers side window. I may need to find the metal part that goes on the bottom of the glass. I am going to rhino coat the floors. I also need a jack kit and spaire tire / rim. If you have any of the parts listed please let me know.

Future mods will be a turbo, A/C, roof rack, lift, larger tires and maybe a roll cage.
 

seabee mike

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You're really making some progress! Can you explain the concept of the washers in how you used them when pulling out the dents to a guy who has never done busy work? :beer:
Sure, it is quite easy, most dents will pop out if you give them some help.
I sand the paint off and tack weld the washer edge to the body. Not too much so it will twist right off with a screwdriver or pliers. Once it is welded on i use a strap and hook on to the washer and on the other end i wrap around a hammer and swing the hammer away from the dent to pull it out. For the hard dents you can use a come along or a winch. You can also use a big hammer too. It takes multiple washers to get the dent out you just keep pulling where the low spots are. once you have it as close to original you can you can fill with Bondo or weld the low spots like small dings. I try to keep the filler less than 1/8'' so it will not pop out over time. The challenge is to not burn holes through the body. I am not a body work guy, just have enough tools to make something happen. If you do use a winch and need to pull from a higher point you can use a pole or 2x4 to move the pull direction to a higher point .
 

seabee mike

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Fallon NV
I have 4 areas where the fiberglass is frayed, i mixed up some resin and brushed it on. 1 hour later it is not hard. It should get hard in about 5 min. I must have mixed it up wrong.aua I took some hardener and brushed it over the resin ,it is getting harder now.
 

AgeOfDarkness94

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How bad was it fraying? if it was huge pieces peeling up I would advise you to grind the work you just did off and redo it with a properly mixed resin/ hardener. without measuring and thoroughly mixing, you'll have no idea if it cured properly. (I'm assuming the worst here) Of course this could lead to big chunks of your top peeling away and smacking some guys Porsche going down the highway (not fun trust me). My top was cracked in several places but luckily for me, my Dad was a boat builder in his spare time while he was retired from the corps. long story short fiberglass doesnt like to be fixed when its peeled and delaminated. what i had to do was grind/ sand the portion that had developed cracks and then go over them with 13.5oz/sqyd chopped mat and vinyl ester resin until it was flush again. (all this after a 8x6in peice tore off @ 65 mph on my way to work....) if the damage is minimal, by all means hit with duct tape for all I care :) but if it is serious and or structural wear, I would try to work a little more on it to guarantee the patch would hold just my 2cents

edit:wanted to point out that a lot of the work (all the body kit and custom covers) on the '67 Shelby cobra "replica" my dad and I restored is vinyl ester and 9oz double biaxial S glass... strong stuff
 
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seabee mike

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Fallon NV
You're correct I will have to sand it off and re do it. It is a sealer coat only. the glass has just starter to show wear. I have worked with glass before too. I built a Manx like buggy and had to re glass the whole body as it was toast.
 
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seabee mike

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Fallon NV
Well I am about ready to spray paint. I found a few small defects again. The more you try to make it look good the more details come out. It will be worth it. I left 1 small dent for the **** of it. I fixed the butt print I found on the cab. Does anyone need a radio mount? I have no use for it. What is it worth? I will be adding a new plastic trim where i removed it or maybe patch it with a nice piece of diamond plate. I will be installing my GPS / dvd / am /fm/ monitor in the dash where the bracket was. the new dash cover can fall over it to hide it from view. I also picked a Smittybilt Security Stereo Floor Console. I will drop in a HAM radio in there.

In photo 3 , what is that thing on the tire hump? like like a fire ext holder but????
 

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Warthog

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I'll take the radio bracket. I'll PM the address.

The thing on the hump looks like a bracket for a decon bottle (decontamination)
 

wallew

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seabee mike,

If you need it, I have a spare top. I'm in Denver, if you ever want it, let me know. FREE TO GOOD HOME. Doesn't have any glass or rubber, but no cracks... I came off a civi Blazer.

drop me a PM if you ever need it.
 

seabee mike

New member
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Fallon NV
seabee mike,

If you need it, I have a spare top. I'm in Denver, if you ever want it, let me know. FREE TO GOOD HOME. Doesn't have any glass or rubber, but no cracks... I came off a civi Blazer.

drop me a PM if you ever need it.
Thank you for the great offer. My top is in great shape. just had a small area where it was starting to show the fibers. I fixed it and now it looks great. Just needs paint.
 
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