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Manual CTIS control how to.

Csm Davis

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Not sure if I follow you, but yes you could separate the front and rears, then run a tee from your supply into two regulators and four ball valves. That would actually be nice for airing down just the rears when empty!
Why couldn't you just put the ball valves then the Tee then the regulators? Then you only need the same 2 valves.

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Jbulach

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Ok, gotcha. Just as long as the regulators will allow the air to quickly bleed back through them when dumping the air pressure off the lines once the desired pressure is reached?
 

Jbulach

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I'll try to dig out a couple different regulators tomorrow night and see how they like flowing the wrong way, don't think Ive ever tried it before?
 
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If you put the regulators after the ball valves its much harder to get the psi set where you want because the regulator won't read the set pressure till that much air is in the line. With the regulator before the valves it shows the full pressure you have set it too. We tried it with ball valve first inline and it was difficult to get the desired pressure without a bunch of screwing around. Regulator first then you set desired pressure and then open ball valve.
 

Jbulach

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Yeh, thats what in thinking that they are a check, by the nature of their design.


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Jbulach

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So, I tried about a dozen different regulators from air, oxygen, acetylene, Co2 to propane, just blowing through them, they all seemed to flow almost as well backwards. I however did not hit them hard with compressed air, as I'm not sure if it would possibly damage them.

I may need to redo my setup due to my CTIS ECU likely went bad, air flow issues and I have leaks on both sides of my cheap $10 regulator. If I end up making mine fully manual, I will likely steal your idea and run the front and rear tires separate. If the regulator doesn't like having the lines vented back through it, this may be another solution, than adding more ball valves???
IMG_4036.jpg
 
Last edited:

Csm Davis

Well-known member
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393
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Location
Hattiesburg, Mississippi
So, I tried about a dozen different regulators from air, oxygen, acetylene, Co2 to propane, just blowing through them, they all seemed to flow almost as well backwards. I however did not hit them hard with compressed air, as I'm not sure if it would possibly damage them.

I may need to redo my setup due to my CTIS ECU likely went bad, air flow issues and I have leaks on both sides of my cheap $10 regulator. If I end up making mine fully manual, I will likely steal your idea and run the front and rear tires separate. If the regulator doesn't like having the lines vented back through it, this may be another solution, than adding more ball valves???
View attachment 697262
It would only require one more valve after the regulators than the original setup, was just thinking less parts, less money, less to break, if it works. If not one ball valve isn't going to break the bank.

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Note the valve on the supply before the regulators to stop air coming in, and the valve to vent air pressure after the regulators and check valves...
it will work that way but will be a pain to get your desired pressure without a bunch of peckering around. I have built and used the system. You build it and use it then tell me how much of a pita it is to get your desired pressure with your setup. This is a case where experience over rules what looks right on paper. Trust me I'm not just blowing hot air here.
 

Jbulach

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it will work that way but will be a pain to get your desired pressure without a bunch of peckering around. I have built and used the system. You build it and use it then tell me how much of a pita it is to get your desired pressure with your setup. This is a case where experience over rules what looks right on paper. Trust me I'm not just blowing hot air here.
Sorry if I offended you.

I built and have been using a hybrid manual over auto system since 6 months before you started this thread, and shortly before tjhuffy started the tread that you used the picture from, so I think I have a little experience also.

Sorry to have muddied YOUR thread, thought I was helping with some different ideas. I will stay off of it from now on, not just blowing hot air here, either.
 
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Location
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I'm not offended in any way I'm just letting others know with our experience it works better after the regulator IMO. We built the first one months before I ever made the post and tried it with the ball valve before the regulator and found it's more user friendly to have the valve after the regulator because you can set it before you even open the valve and have a more accurate pressure reading instead of having to adjust as the pressure rises in the system. If you have already built it then you know it's not as simple as set the regulator and you have it then.
 
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