hornetfan
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I think Nasty's points about parts are very valid. Aren't stock new rod bolts available?? And head studs wouldn't be "custom" -- just order the correct length and thread from ARP. Same with fasteners for the mains. There's no magic and minimal cost to deburring/polishing your own rods and shotpeening is not costly - even with shipping! Balancing the rotating assembly is NOT that costly.You're still avoiding the point of you're asking for a power increase of 200%....
Nasty's correct IMO -- rebuild the MF engine properly and adding a few low cost steps with new studs and rod bolts and you can probably substantially enhance durability.
The original 265 cu in Chevy small block was a 165 hp engine. Stock but well prepped 2-bolt mains 265 cu in mouse motors will certainly easily make 350hp with all stock piston and bottom end parts - the only enhancements being proper engine machining and assembly. That's a 47% increase in hp from an engine of the same vintage as the 465 MF. Maybe asking for 300 hp is asking too much. But asking for 275 hp over the 210 hp 465MF is only asking for a gain of 30% and the bottom ends are the same across the board with the 465 family, correct? That I suggest ought to be within the realm of possibility!
Other suggestions for a bulletproof build add more cost still but a modest HP increase while retaining MF capability doesn't require extremes -- please let me rephrase that, because nobody seems to know these answers - only opinions have been offered including mine.
My personal focus in this thread has been what can be done to enhance power from the 465 MF while keeping cost reasonable? Putting a modern turbo on and adding an IC will not increase cost much and the IC certainly will not increase stresses. In fact if I understand the hypercycle correctly you do not want to eliminate the coolant from the head and the IC would actually help the hypercycle by keeping the intake air charge cool to allow the hypercycle to function in the piston and chamber. New valve springs - are they needed? Are there many reported failures of bent valves caused by spring float? Not so far in this thread so don't spend the money. Head gasket problems? Replace head studs with ARP off-the-shelf studs and same with mains - minimal cost. New rod bolts (I confess it never occurred to me that anybody was reusing their old bolts!) - so buy new bolts - zero cost compared to proper engine rebuilding practice. Deburr and shotpeen rods and carefully size 'em. Minimal cost. Balance the rotating assembly - some cost increase but big endurance gains.
At the end of the day you have a more durable engine that will allow a reasonable fuel increase at limited increased rpm to allow larger tires or gear change for a moderate increase in speed without losing MF capability or having to do an engine swap. Same old hotrod stuff as the '40s and '50s - improve what you have on hand as much as you can, add better airflow and more fuel and enjoy the results.
For somebody with access to a bunch of NOS parts you can get a bit fancier and hand match bearings to journals, pistons to holes, and other similar "tricks" to get minimal bearing clearances, minimal piston slap, and so on. Wanna get fancy? Lighten the pistons by machining the skirts. Smokey Yunick built a reputation on this stuff as did many other men such as Carroll Shelby and Cliff Collins ('40s) and Gale Banks and countless others. No magic here - just careful, thoughtful work.
ALL of these things have to be done before spending a dime if you want true maximum power regardless of whether the engine is gas or diesel or hypercycle.