MEP-002A Exhaust Question plus Machine Resurrection

[Light in the Dark]

Hows the gauge panel look? You seem to be putting a lot of thought into making it 'right'. Many are very faded due to sun and age. If yours is not as nice as you want, I think I have a couple new in box gauge panels for the 002/003.

 

[Tinstar]

Hows the gauge panel look? You seem to be putting a lot of thought into making it 'right'. Many are very faded due to sun and age. If yours is not as nice as you want, I think I have a couple new in box gauge panels for the 002/003.

It's decent but NOS is always better.
Will PM you.

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Once the load tests check out ok, the main thing to tackle is the battery cables going from the slave receptacle to the starter.
They look horrible.
Have all the stuff to fix it and kicking myself for not doing it while I was waiting on the battery's.
Still need to shorten positive battery cable since it's about a foot too long.

 

[Guyfang]

You know, the -24P should give you the measurements of the cables.

 

[Tinstar]

You know, the -24P should give you the measurements of the cables.

Cables are fine
It’s that fiberglass?? covering that looks horrible.
The covering underneath is fine also.

Will do to them what I did to the ground cable.
Shrink sleeve followed by mesh loom and new lugs

 

[Tinstar]

The original panel is faded but easily readable.



Installed new K2 Preheat relay.
Works like a champ now.

New hardware and everything.



Wrapped wire to protect it from vibration and schuffing.




Info on new panel circuit breaker.

Ran generator for over an hour at 30% load.
Was nice and hot.
Shutdown and it restarted just fine.
Did another 4 cycles and no issues.

Looks promising that the S7 issue is solved.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Here are what the NIB look like . They are solid black, the vertical light lines are just from overhead lighting.

 

[Guyfang]

Are you going to give this to him for his birthday?

 

[Tinstar]

Here are what the NIB look like . They are solid black, the vertical light lines are just from overhead lighting.

View attachment 898683
View attachment 898684
View attachment 898682

PM Sent

 

[Tinstar]

NOS dash panel has been ordered.
Will probably get NOS knobs also.

Still waiting on NOS Voltmeter.
Seller sent it the absolute slowest way possible while charging $20 shipping for a gauge.

Load testing next week.

 

[Tinstar]

Installed new voltmeter



Reading too high compared to multimeter


Old gauge showing proper reading.

Returning new gauge and I reinstalled original one.
Think I’ll leave that alone for now.

 

[rickf]

Is that line in the green supposed to represent 24 volts or 28 volts? I would think center of green would be 24 volts. 28 volts would be high end of green. I have never, ever found meters in military equipment accurate, they are basic indicators of a problem. They will put accurate meters where they are critically needed but this is not a critical need. Critical need equals more money per meter and starting in the 60's money and budgets were everything.

 

[Tinstar]

Is that line in the green supposed to represent 24 volts or 28 volts? I would think center of green would be 24 volts. 28 volts would be high end of green. I have never, ever found meters in military equipment accurate, they are basic indicators of a problem. They will put accurate meters where they are critically needed but this is not a critical need. Critical need equals more money per meter and starting in the 60's money and budgets were everything.

The Tick is 28v
As shown here on a NOS voltmeter for an LMTV/FMTV I have in my parts stash.

Either way, the new gauge is reading too high.
The original gauge is reading correctly.

Agree that most are not super accurate but I don’t want something showing it’s in the red when it’s not even actually close to that.
Defeats the whole purpose of the gauge.

I have to live with (for now) a Hertz gauge that’s pegged too high.

Don’t want to deal with misreading battery gauge also.

 

[Guyfang]

I have to live with (for now) a Hertz gauge that’s pegged too high.

Whats this problem?
Have you checked your hertz with another method? Like Kilowatt meter? Or a MM that reads hertz?

Is it too high and you can not adjust it down, but hear the engine RPM change when you try?

Or stuck, even when the set is off, up high?

 

[Tinstar]

I have to live with (for now) a Hertz gauge that’s pegged too high.

Whats this problem?
Have you checked your hertz with another method? Like Kilowatt meter? Or a MM that reads hertz?

Is it too high and you can not adjust it down, but hear the engine RPM change when you try?

Or stuck, even when the set is off, up high?

Hertz is fine.
Have checked with Fluke multimeter and Kill-a-watt device.

Gauge is whacked.
Has been since day engine first ran.

Sometimes it tries to join the party, but not for long before going far right again.
As soon as engine is shut down, the needle sweeps all the way to the left.

Have checked all connections for it and all are tight and corrosion free.
The gauge itself looks like it’s had moisture inside.

 

[Ray70]

Sounds like your transducer is barely hanging on to what little life it has left!

 

[rickf]

With all the issues this machine has had I have to wonder if maybe it was a flood victim?

 

[Tinstar]

With all the issues this machine has had I have to wonder if maybe it was a flood victim?

I don’t think so.
No evidence of it being flooded to be found.
It has however, been sitting outside uncovered for years in rain and snow.

The panel was probably facing to the SW and would directly catch the spring thunderstorms full fury.

What’s the fun in getting a surplus machine that doesn’t need anything but fluids and filters?!
It’s taking some doing but she’ll be a much better generator when I’m done.

 

[Tinstar]

Sounds like your transducer I barely hanging on to what little life it has left!

Agree.

 

[Tinstar]

Sounds like your transducer I barely hanging on to what little life it has left!

Ordered one of the TRC Frequency Transducer 10380 units.


This is the one currently installed

 

[Tinstar]

New part arrived
Not exactly as the old one and mounting holes didn’t line up.
I already knew this before ordering part thanks to another thread.


Just made a template and was able to reuse one of the original holes.
Expanded one other and Drilled two new holes.
Sealed the other holes with mil spec 3145 sealant






Used stainless mounting hardware and used new grounding washers. Was much easier to mount from the back
Fit just fine.

I used too much red shrink sleeve.
Had to cut a few zip ties and when wires were hooked up, secured the wires again.



Still about 0.5 to 1.0 hz off but at least it’s in the ballpark.
Needle still moves occasionally but not far.

Fluke meter confirms info.