MEP-002A Exhaust Question plus Machine Resurrection

[Tinstar]

Even if it's not the OEM starter misbehaving... having a Type II starter on the spares shelf is a good thing! I bought one as a spare years ago and having it has intimidated my OEM starters to always work.

Incidentally, my new to me #5 generator came missing its OEM starter with a Type II starter laying in a bucket that was never installed because the previous owner couldn't figure out how to install it. Was very simple to install the Type II with me supplying just (2) grade 5 bolts that were missing & it was very easy to wire up. The Type II starter cranks very nicely!

Note: While on the subject of -002/-003 starters: I am in the hunt for the Starter Lockout Switch Dust Cover its missing on my # 5 unit I recently purchased. Will post in Parts Wanted also.

The gear reduction starters are so much better.
Lighter, cranks faster and uses less power to do it.

I really don't mind spending extra money on parts I might not need right now.
They will be used at some point.

Better to have and not need......Than need and not have.

 

[Ray70]

You kind of lost me on the thermal cut-out switch. That wouldn't prevent cranking, but it would cause the gen to not stay running after you let go of the start switch. The S7 starter interrupt switch under the cover near the alternator fuse will prevent cranking.
Sounds like you may have more than one gremlin left.

 

[Tinstar]

You kind of lost me on the thermal cut-out switch. That wouldn't prevent cranking, but it would cause the gen to not stay running after you let go of the start switch. The S7 starter interrupt switch under the cover near the alternator fuse will prevent cranking.
Sounds like you may have more than one gremlin left.

I’m sure I did since I was lost myself, since then I’ve read up on it and will be using Guyfangs advice.
The TM is helpful but experience is better.

New Buss fuse holder arrived today and will be installing that along with the new voltage regulator.



The thermal switch did check out bad.
Checked it again this morning, per the TM procedure and it failed.

Got a notice that my yellow top battery’s are on back order and will be at least another week.

 

[Tinstar]

Installed new voltage regulator and fuse holder.
Charging issue fixed.

Cranking issue still a problem.
Could not get the cover off the S7 switch.
Even holding up linkage didn’t give enough room.
Still a work in progress

 

[Ray70]

Not sure if you tried already, but if you take the center stud out for the S7 cover you should be able to get it out.
It's pretty difficult to get it out with the removed and almost impossible with it in place.

 

[Tinstar]

I did take the stud all the way out and still no luck.
Will try again tomorrow

I did look at the contact and it was closed.
Engine off and still hot.
Have the procedure to check and adjust it printed out.

She fired right up without issue.
Just the restarts when hot it’s not wanting to do.

 

[Tinstar]

Renewed generator ground wire.
Shrink sleeve and wire loom makes a world of difference.



Also grabbed an older Tesla charging cable from the barn.
Have two of them and maybe I can use it for a good 120v cable. Minus the weird plug.

They came from an amusement place that was torn down a while back.
I know someone who was in charge of the demolition and these were literally about to be scooped up with an excavator.
Probably should have grabbed the entire charging station, but time wasn’t on my side and they weren’t going to wait for me.
I stood there and watched them get ripped out and crushed.

 

[Ray70]

So you are only having a no-crank issue while the motor is hot.
and it sounds like you haven't gotten the cover off the S7 but you verified the contacts are closed, I assume you probed the leads to verify?
Have you checked to see if you're getting power to the small wire on the starter solenoid while in this hot-no crank condition?

 

[Tinstar]

So still can’t get cover off without messing with injection pump.
Verified before initial start this morning that S7 contacts are touching and pins on cannon plug have continuity.

Ran unit for an hour under a small 45% load.
She’s smoking a bit under load so it definitely needs the throat cleared.

When unit was shut down, I checked S7 pins and no connection like there was before it ran, but checked behind cover and contacts were touching.



Can’t do the engine running adjustment per the TM with the cover still on.
Removed starter cables and cleaned them again.

Small wire on solenoid is getting power.

Engine finally started up again and I would shut it off occasionally and would restart just fine.
Once engine had the air doors about halfway open, I shut it down again and it is doing the no start again.
Fuel shutoff solenoid is working as designed.
Back to square one.


This threaded rod/screw is what is preventing the cover from coming off


Edit;
I did go ahead and order a new S7 switch just in case. NOS one

 

[rickf]

contacts are closed but are they clean? Like ignition points any electrical contacts can burn and lose contact. The fact it only does it hot makes me think it is something else though. If the problem bolt is the one with the wing nut you just need to wire brush as much rust off as you can and then heat it up with a torch, both nut and threaded area and let it cool a bit and add some rust penetrant of choice and it will come right off. If it does not heat it again but concentrate on just the wing nut and remove while still hot.

 

[Tinstar]

The wing nut isn't the issue.
The threaded rod behind it is, in the picture.

The contacts "looked" clean, but honestly I didn't really check beyond a visual look.
Will use emery cloth tomorrow to clean them

 

[rickf]

It would be better to use a fine sandpaper like 320 or finer. Emory leaves fine scratches which will create arcs and burn even faster. Be sure to blow out whichever you use as the silicone carbide media can be an insulator. Not to mention abrasive.

 

[Ray70]

That screw in your way is the back side of the throttle stop screw.
In reality you could cut it off a bit with a dremel and small cut off wheel.
The piece in your way is the excess screw, not the business end of the screw.
I'm confused on your S7 issue. You said you have no connection between the S7 wires ( when hot I assume ) yet you HAVE power getting to the solenoid??
S7 breaks the connection to the solenoid when the contacts are open.
If power is getting to the solenoid on the starter the starter should crank.

 

[Tinstar]

It would be better to use a fine sandpaper like 320 or finer. Emory leaves fine scratches which will create arcs and burn even faster. Be sure to blow out whichever you use as the silicone carbide media can be an insulator. Not to mention abrasive.

Will do
Thanks

 

[Tinstar]

That screw in your way is the back side of the throttle stop screw.
In reality you could cut it off a bit with a dremel and small cut off wheel.
The piece in your way is the excess screw, not the business end of the screw.
I'm confused on your S7 issue. You said you have no connection between the S7 wires ( when hot I assume ) yet you HAVE power getting to the solenoid??
S7 breaks the connection to the solenoid when the contacts are open.
If power is getting to the solenoid on the starter the starter should crank.

I will check again tomorrow.
Think my sequence in checking was wrong.
I’ll look at the TM in the morning.
Appreciate the guidance

 

[Chainbreaker]

View attachment 898088



Edit;
I did go ahead and order a new S7 switch just in case. NOS one

Uh ohhhh, its starting... the generator parts hoarding syndrome is sprouting! I've attributed it to some kind of "weird field effect" when standing too close to a running generator.

Unfortunately, "No Known Cure" other than to advance from buying parts to buying "Complete Spare Generators". Just inform the wife "It's cheaper that way". That's what I told mine & she agrees with me! So keep looking... their out there! Spare generators that is... not spare wives!

 

[Tinstar]

You ought to see my spare parts collection for my CUCVs.
Yea


The struggle is real…….


I added more zip ties to the wiring.
Also applied rust killer to the trailer.
Lots of NOS parts arriving Tuesday.

 

[Chainbreaker]

BTW, I noticed that on my all original 1986 model MEP-002a it has a Phillips Head Screw with paint on it matches the genset's desert sand paint, holding on the Dust Cover over the S7 starter switch.

Seems like that would be better than the "threaded stud & wingnut" protruding out of Dust Cover on later models due to not having just one more thing to clear to remove cover. However, understand in your case it's the Throttle Stop Screw interfering with dust cover removal.

I've never had to remove any S7 dust covers but my latest acquisition #5 is missing its Dust Cover so if/when I find a replacement, I hope replacement is easier than removal!

 

[rickf]

It is possible that the starter solenoid is going open when hot. It is nothing more than an electrical coil, and one under a LOT of vibration at that. It may be making enough contact on the primary side when cool but when heated up and things expand there may be a break in the internal wiring that open circuits. You said you had a new starter coming, does it have a new solenoid with it. Put the whole thing on and see if you still have the problem. If the problem goes away be SURE to mark the old one as "bad when hot". That way when you bench test it and it works you don't go to all the trouble to install it only to find out it does not work hot.

 

[Tinstar]

The wing nut and stud are “one”.
Very easy to get in and out.
Cover not so much.

Cleaned contacts with fine sandpaper and no dirt or debris came off on paper.