JimmyLet58
New member
- 15
- 10
- 3
- Location
- NC
My fuel gauge started flickering back and forth all over the place. Now later on ust pegged far as it will go past full and staying there. Fuel gauge gone bad? Thanks for any info on what to do.
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
You can check the sender, but in my experience when its pegged far right its a dead gauge. If you are looking for a replacement, I have them listed in the classified section.
Thanks for the info. Where is the classified section you have the qauge listed?You can check the sender, but in my experience when its pegged far right its a dead gauge. If you are looking for a replacement, I have them listed in the classified section.
https://armysurpluswarehouse.com/military-issue-fuel-gauge/ might work for you. I used one on my 802. It's not OEM black, but it is a Teleflex gauge and good quality. UPS from Idaho can be expensive, though. I bought a few spares and included them in a larger order to neutralize shipping cost.
Zed254https://armysurpluswarehouse.com/military-issue-fuel-gauge/ might work for you. I used one on my 802. It's not OEM black, but it is a Teleflex gauge and good quality. UPS from Idaho can be expensive, though. I bought a few spares and included them in a larger order to neutralize shipping cost.
Ray thanks for all your itime and Information. I haven't had time to check everything out yet. Just getting ready to order the marine stainless unit. So I need the 5.5 for the 802 correct?Jimmy, where are you at with this machine as of now? Have you gotten the gage wires figured out, or do you still need help?
Also, have you tested the sending unit in the tank? I can almost guarantee your sending unit is bad. I've seen it a dozen times.
It's easy to test, just disconnect the wire on the 3/8" nut on the sending unit and use and ohm meter to check resistance from the stud on the sending unit to ground. Open circuit means sender is bad. Maybe it can be cleaned, but experience has told me to just replace with the marine stainless steel unit, it will save you 100 headaches. There is another thread started just recently regarding this same issue that you may have seen...
mep-802a fuel level sender float
my fuel gauge read "E" so I followed the TM and pulled the sending unit and it Ohm'd out to specs. I reinstalled it and ordered a new fuel gauge. I get the new gauge installed and it's and still on "E". I next ohm'd it in place with a full tank and it's reading 216 ohms = near empty. I made...www.steelsoldiers.com
My 802 is located at some property I own several hours away, so I cannot take a picture of the wiring. I've attached a Beede Gauge Testing document that shows the 3 wires on a fuel gauge: Sender, Ground, Ignition. The back of the fuel gauge has the S, G, I molded next to the terminals. I've also attached a picture of my 803 fuel gauge wiring. The black wire is non-standard illumination for the gauge and won't be on yours.Zed254
I got the gage I am not sure I got it hooked up right. Do you have a picture of how you have yours wired. When I put power to mine the needle pegs to the left pasts empty!
Thanks Jimmy
Thanks for all your help Ray!FYI be warned that the newer white body white Beede gages and the older Blue body gages ( not sure who made those ) are wired differently.
Or I should say the terminals are on opposite sides of the gage.
All you need to do is pay attention to the markings on the back of the gage.
The I terminal is for 24v+ the G is ground and S is the sense wire going to the sending unit.
All gages are marked with the same identifiers, just match them up. If you removed the wires and aren't sure where they came from simply use a DMM to look for voltage to find your power and ground, or use the ohm's setting to test the wires compared to one of the other gages.
Hi Ray how many qts of oil does the 802 hold with the filter?FYI be warned that the newer white body white Beede gages and the older Blue body gages ( not sure who made those ) are wired differently.
Or I should say the terminals are on opposite sides of the gage.
All you need to do is pay attention to the markings on the back of the gage.
The I terminal is for 24v+ the G is ground and S is the sense wire going to the sending unit.
All gages are marked with the same identifiers, just match them up. If you removed the wires and aren't sure where they came from simply use a DMM to look for voltage to find your power and ground, or use the ohm's setting to test the wires compared to one of the other gages.
We get it, advertisements are annoying!
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!