MEP 802A Fix-up Thread

[Light in the Dark]

Colt do you want the OEM pad for your machine? I have one extra I can just drop in the mail. Let me know.

 

[Guyfang]

I just got done with a front oil seal replacement on an 802... I left the entire front end together and just unbolted along the bottom edges and slowly took the entire radiator end out in a single piece. I feared with the sheer amount of fasteners, that misalignment was almost assured. Glad I did it that way.

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After the second time I took a front end off, that's the only way I would do it. Saves mucho time and effort. Like I wrote, the misalignment is a common problem. You can do the back side of the set the same way. And the back side is a pita, if you compleatly disassemble it. Having said that, a compleat disassembly is good to gain knowledge and experance. Get to know your set. Or really clean up a pig pen set. But if you only do one in your life, you will never figure out how to pull the whole thing.

Hey! Heater kit!! You don't see many around.

 

[jamawieb]

I just got done with a front oil seal replacement on an 802... I left the entire front end together and just unbolted along the bottom edges and slowly took the entire radiator end out in a single piece. I feared with the sheer amount of fasteners, that misalignment was almost assured. Glad I did it that way.

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What part number did you use for the front seal and where did you get it from? I've got a unit coming in with a front leak and wanted to price some seals before it got here.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Jimmy... as luck would have it, I bought two seals (one 6 months ago, and one a month ago to replace the one I lost... turns out my wife just hides things real well "for me"). PM me your address and I'll send it down as a thank you for that gasket.

 

[Light in the Dark]

But to answer your question for future searchers... Southern Surplus has them on the big auction site for under $10 each. "Onan 186-6148 Plain Oil Seal NSN 5330-01-358-5554 Military Generator MEP-803A" Is the search term to get you to exactly where you want.

Edit: I see they list for over $18... I got mine for under 10 with an offer. YMMV.

 

[Light in the Dark]

After the second time I took a front end off, that's the only way I would do it. Saves mucho time and effort. Like I wrote, the misalignment is a common problem. You can do the back side of the set the same way. And the back side is a pita, if you compleatly disassemble it. Having said that, a compleat disassembly is good to gain knowledge and experance. Get to know your set. Or really clean up a pig pen set. But if you only do one in your life, you will never figure out how to pull the whole thing.

Hey! Heater kit!! You don't see many around.

Yup, and this machine came with the manuals for said heater too.

 

[jamawieb]

Jimmy... as luck would have it, I bought two seals (one 6 months ago, and one a month ago to replace the one I lost... turns out my wife just hides things real well "for me"). PM me your address and I'll send it down as a thank you for that gasket.

Thank you sir,
Just pm'd you. If you need anything let me know.

 

[CallMeColt]

I just got done with a front oil seal replacement on an 802... I left the entire front end together and just unbolted along the bottom edges and slowly took the entire radiator end out in a single piece. I feared with the sheer amount of fasteners, that misalignment was almost assured. Glad I did it that way.

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That's a real good idea... wish I thought on that! I may back track & do this if it ends up being a huge hassle.

 

[CallMeColt]

All TQG' have this problem. When re assembling them you often need to loosen things up a bit, get everything centered, and then hand tighten all the screws, before running them down. For the top covers and doors, I often used 4-5 old punches, I ground down a bit. Then put the top on, shove the punches in, in a few places all over, top center my million holes. Then screw all the screws in, before tightening them.

Do you recommend loosening all the body bolts from the skid up, getting the radiator into it's proper place, then tightening from the bottom up?

Not looking forward to doing a bunch of work again, but I want it done right so I can just use it as needed & add fuel.

 

[CallMeColt]

Colt do you want the OEM pad for your machine? I have one extra I can just drop in the mail. Let me know.

Sure, that would be great! I will send you a PM. Thanks.

 

[Guyfang]

Do you recommend loosening all the body bolts from the skid up, getting the radiator into it's proper place, then tightening from the bottom up?

Not looking forward to doing a bunch of work again, but I want it done right so I can just use it as needed & add fuel.

No, not all, got to eyeball it, see which ones impact what you are doing. Like I said, the first two time convinced me there has to be a better way. Hence, pulling the whole front end off at once. Sometimes, you loosen just one thing, and it all falls in place. I wish I wasn't locked up here, so I could copy a page from the -24P and highlight the one that should correct it. The nurses cut me a lot of slack here, but using their printer and computer might be pushing it. It not hard, take a look see.

 

[CallMeColt]

I ended up loosening a bunch & got a few more lined up, but not all. Looking at it closely, when the radiator was taken apart, the top bracket was soldered back in place a bit tilted back. Same at the bottom. Used some punches as you suggested to get some holes lined up.This was the major reason the holes were so far off. I ended up using the bottom ones & with the few that were off on the top, I just put a new hole on the body so it would work & was secure.

Everything is back together. With all the bolts in, it makes a lot loss noise! Did an 80% load test for 15 minuets to be sure it was okay & got it to temperature. Going to do a good load test on the house when I can here in the next few days.

 

[NormB]

MEP-803a insulation, sound controlling blanket

did the search engine thing, got the usual 113,405 or so return hits on several different combinations of insulation, 803a insulation, MEP-803a insulation, sound proofing, etc.The insulation inside the cooling exhaust section of the genset is really broken down on mine.I've sourced the ratchet rivets (Fastex part# 236-17406-04-01-01), waiting to hear back from distributors.The "sound controlling blanket" NSN 5640-01-386-9618, plastic urethane foam 1" thick, 24" by 54" is interestingly absent from any searches I can find on this site except for two hits that are pages from the #-641/642-24P manuals but nothing about replacing the stuff that I can find in under an hour or so poking around.Anyone else replace theirs? What did you use? Did you reuse the fasteners? Substitute something else?Thinking about a big piece of FATMAT hood liner at 3/4" with some 80 mil NOICO material underneath.Thanks in advance.Norm

 

[Light in the Dark]

You are talking about the insulation on the side inlets?

 

[NormB]

You are talking about the insulation on the side inlets?

Yep.

Sides and rear (fuel tank end).
Part #23 (manual is 642-24P)

 

[Guyfang]

If the fasteners are not brittle, yes you can reuse them. Handy little things.

 

[Hard Head]

I have used fat mat before. Just use the old piece as a template.

 

[NormB]

I have used fat mat before. Just use the old piece as a template.

Contemplating using acoustic ceiling tiles (fire-resistant), cut to fit, drill out holes.

I’ll post pictures when I figure it out.

I DID put some butyl rubber sound/heat dampening stuff (NOICO 80ml) on the top panels and it runs quieter than the 802a.

Shoulda done dBa readings, have a meter...

 

[Hard Head]

You could also use 1" acoustical fiberglass to replace the radiator sound deadening foam. Just spay the face of it with clear flex seal as the rubberized coating will create a rubberized film over the face of the fiberglass. This will keep the face from fraying from the exhaust air. Also check to see if your storage door (right side under the control panel) door actually touches the air inlet and blocks most of the air coming in. You will probably see where the sound deadening foam leaves a pattern on the face of the storage box. And does a really good job of blocking most of the air flow on that side of the unit/ I have fixed this on every 80X unit I have sold. You may be lucky. Screen off the air intakes to keep wasps, bees, and rodents out as they will destroy your generator.

 

[NormB]

You could also use 1" acoustical fiberglass to replace the radiator sound deadening foam. Just spay the face of it with clear flex seal as the rubberized coating will create a rubberized film over the face of the fiberglass. This will keep the face from fraying from the exhaust air. Also check to see if your storage door (right side under the control panel) door actually touches the air inlet and blocks most of the air coming in. You will probably see where the sound deadening foam leaves a pattern on the face of the storage box. And does a really good job of blocking most of the air flow on that side of the unit/ I have fixed this on every 80X unit I have sold. You may be lucky. Screen off the air intakes to keep wasps, bees, and rodents out as they will destroy your generator.

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Pretty sure I bought a set of screens from you - once I had yours, they were pretty easy to copy/make from parts at the big box hdwr store [would've bought locally, mom-pop store I've gone to for 24 years - but I was told they're getting out of the screen making business, had no frame parts].

I took the box off the door. Don't really need it. Airflow through that side vent is much better, as evidenced by all the insects stuck to the screen while the set was running AFTER I removed the box. Thinking of using it in the HMMWV somewhere, or my tacoma bed.